When you think your getting somewhere!!!

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AlexGTR

Member +
OK, so I've swapped the coolant temp sensor and thermostat out for new ones as I am having quite a lot of running issues.

As you can see from the pics, the temp sensor looked pretty screwed...

IMAG0616.jpg


IMAG0617.jpg


The thermostat looked fine but i swapped it anyway.

I had also fixed the rad fan coming on all the time (AC removed) by putting a wire in the plug to loop the connection a few days before i did this and it was working great.

After putting the new coolant temp sensor and thermostat in i turned the ignition on and the rad fan comes on straight away, before I cranked the engine as it was before, it will then stay on while driving. I checked the wire loop and it was firmly in position??

Anyway i took the car out and it seems to be driving a fair bit better than it was before and is boosting a lot harder. Fuel economy seems to be about 5% better than before the swap but no where near as much as i expected, I'm getting probably about 5-10 more miles out the tank if I'm lucky. :(

There is a hole in the exhaust on one of the flanges but i have bought a new one from someone on here and awaiting that to turn up to fit it, but that is a different and unrelated issue to my over fueling problems I'm sure.

I am now confused as to why my rad fan sometimes decides to come on as soon as i turn the ignition on, and other times its not. The car could be cold or warm it doesn't matter its just random....

Also I occasionally get this violent jerking when letting off the throttle normally when the car is nearly warm. Its like a learner driver kangarooing... Any one got any ideas?

As I've said in previous threads I've done all the usual tricks -

Swapped ignition leads
Plugs
New Dizzy
New Rotor Arm
Swapped ICV with a working one
Adjusted the idle screw but it is completely closed at the moment and still high idle

The only thing I haven't done yet is setup the TPS, but I'm not sure if this is actually going to make a difference?? It may help my idle issue, but nothing else?

I am totally at a loss now as to what to do next, i just want to enjoy the car without it constantly idling too high or over fueling or jerking. The car has been nothing but ball ache to be honest. I just want it working as it should.

So a quick run down of issues I have now -

High idle (sometimes i start the car from warm and it will be low though under 900rpm)
Jerking when near up to temp
Rad fan randomly coming on when cold or warm.

Are there any other sensors i can buy that may help to resolve my issues, as i wouldn't be surprised if the others are in as bad a state as the coolant temp sensor.

Please some one help me :(
 
A

AdamB

Member +
No harm in adjusting the TPS mate.
Check the connection to the fan switch, you may have disturbed this when you removed the stat housing to fit the new thermo or change the CTS. The switch is also located on the stat housing.
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
it is also possible that the temp sensor is faulty even though it is new, i have had this many a time,

its wierd what it causing your jerking though
 
H_D

H_D

Member +
If your idle screw is in all the way and you still have high idle you more than likely will have a vac leak on the inlet somewhere.
 
Rory

Rory

Lifer
Are you sure you have changed the right sensor?
The old sensor looks grey in the picture, which would be the fan switch and not the coolant temp sensor.
 
A

AlexGTR

Member +
sx_turbo said:
it is also possible that the temp sensor is faulty even though it is new, i have had this many a time,

its wierd what it causing your jerking though
Click to expand...

Great, hope its not that!

H_D said:
If your idle screw is in all the way and you still have high idle you more than likely will have a vac leak on the inlet somewhere.
Click to expand...

Ok will have a look and see if i can find one cheers...

Rory said:
Are you sure you have changed the right sensor?
The old sensor looks grey in the picture, which would be the fan switch and not the coolant temp sensor.
Click to expand...

Yes, its the only one that the plug fitted, i double and triple checked. It was the one underneath the dizzy cap. I still have the old one on my desk next to me and its just very dirty.
 
E

elison

Member +
On the EP you have 3 sensors regarding coolant temp. Looking into the bay from the right hand side. The Left one (single wire) is the one for your dash temperature. The second one,the center one (2 wire connector(under the dizzy cap)) is for the ECU reading coolant temp. The third one(single wire) is in the back of the thermohousing which is the fan switch. The third one is the switch that activates the radiator fan relay switching it on and of. If you disconnect it the fan will run as soon you turn the key.

So i suggest you look for any fualty wires and make sure the grounds are good. The ECU not reading correct coolant temp can be very frustrating at a point because the car will not perform.

And the jerking may be also the coolant sensor not reading the right values and sends wrong info to the ECU.
It could also be you TPS. so i suggst you look up the wiki on how to set your TPS to get a good working TPS.

Cheers mate.
 
A

AlexGTR

Member +
elison said:
On the EP you have 3 sensors regarding coolant temp. Looking into the bay from the right hand side. The Left one (single wire) is the one for your dash temperature. The second one,the center one (2 wire connector(under the dizzy cap)) is for the ECU reading coolant temp. The third one(single wire) is in the back of the thermohousing which is the fan switch. The third one is the switch that activates the radiator fan relay switching it on and of. If you disconnect it the fan will run as soon you turn the key.


So i suggest you look for any fualty wires and make sure the grounds are good. The ECU not reading correct coolant temp can be very frustrating at a point because the car will not perform.

And the jerking may be also the coolant sensor not reading the right values and sends wrong info to the ECU.
It could also be you TPS. so i suggst you look up the wiki on how to set your TPS to get a good working TPS.

Cheers mate.
Click to expand...


The fan runs as soon as i turn the key anyway so maybe the cable is broken somewhere...

I went over the engine with it running last night and sprayed plus gas on every vacuum and inlet pipe i could see and could not find a leak anywhere :(
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
The wax stat could be at fault and causing your high idle. Inside the throttle body but before the plate there is a hole from the inside of the throttle body going to the wax stat. Get the car up to temp and when the idle is high, put your finger over the hole to see if the idle drops. When the car is warm, this should be closed.

The other part I would suggest changing if you have a poor mileage/over fueling problem is the O2 sensor, only about £15 for a new one off ebay.
 
A

AlexGTR

Member +
Quick Update -

So i took it to my mechanic mate today (he works on Skylines and S13/S14's normally) and he has a look over it. The shitty Bailey dump valve was leaking badly, i was going to remove it anyway and just let it dump through the turbo but haven't got anything to block it off yet so he just fitted his spare Blitz BOV on there for now. This made no difference to the idle.

He checked all vacuum lines and they seem all to be fine. Didn't get to complete check for boost leaks yet as we didnt have much time.

We also checked the TPS and that is setup fine.

Pretty much at a loss now!!

Does anyone know where i can buy a rad fan sensor? The one that goes into the thermostat....
 
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