I was trying to figure out a compression raito for my new forged lump, it comes out at around 7.3:1 the block skimmed to clean and the head has been skimmed to clean is anyone else running these kind of ratio's ? looking to eventually run 1.5 bar through a td04 ,
Cylinder Diameter (mm) 74
Stroke Length (mm) 77.4
Number of cylinders 4
Chamber in cc's 40?
Piston dome in cc's -10
Gasket Thickness in mm 0.6mm (trd)
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.
Cylinder Diameter (mm) 74
Stroke Length (mm) 77.4
Number of cylinders 4
Chamber in cc's 40?
Piston dome in cc's -10
Gasket Thickness in mm 0.6mm (trd)
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.