WallaceGlanza
Member +
Well I did this yesterday and since there isn't a tutorial for it I thought I may aswell take some pictures whilst doing it.
Its very simple to do, the only tricky part is winding in the caliper piston where I would definately recomend buying the proper tool to do it with, otherwise its pretty straight forward.
So first off you'll need;
- Your new discs together with new inner and outer bearings and grease
- The new pads
- Caliper piston wind back tool (I tried previously with just a screw driver but when the piston is far out its hard to get back in and is easy to damage, plus the tool costs less than a tenner anyway)
- A 12 and 14mm socket and wrench
- A large flat head screw driver
- A pair of pliers
- Jack and axle stands
- A brush
- WD40!
First off loosen off the rear wheel nuts at both sides then jack the car up and safely support it using the axle stands and wheel chocks (also put the car in gear and the handbrake off), then remove the wheels and you'll be looking at this:
There's only 2 bolts holding the caliper to the pad carrier then another 2 holding the carrier to the hub as shown below:
Top caliper and pad carrier bolts:
Bottom caliper and pad carrier bolts:
I gave the calipers a little clean up before starting to loosen and remove any dirt then gave the bolts a spray with WD40:
I then removed the grease cap by prysing it off with a flat head screw driver:
Next remove the caliper by undoing the two 12mm bolts:
Then pry it off with a large screw driver or similar:
Put it to one side and then remove the pad carrier by undoing the two 14mm bolts holding it on:
You'll now be left with just the disc to remove:
To remove it, take off the split pin using the pliers and then the crown holding the nut:
The large nut should only be hand tight, as if its over tightened it squeezes the bearings and stops the disc turing, however if its a little too tight its a 22mm socket which fits. With it off the disc should just pull off and the outer bearing will probably fall off along with the spacer which go's against the bearing:
You can throw away the old disc and bearing but you'll need the other bits, then you'll be left with a completly naked albeit greasy hub:
Before fitting the new pads the caliper piston needs wound back in, so grab the wind back tool:
Then using the correct side line up the tabs in the piston and wind it in using the socket wrench going clockwise, do it until its flush with the body of the caliper and also so that the holes are lined up horizontally as there are small bumps on the pads which these line up with. (Sorry I forgot to take pics of this)
Next get your new discs and bearings (only the inner bearing is shown):
Fill the inside of the disc with grease to give a good supply to the bearings then pop in the inner bearing and seal, you'll need to give the bearing a little grease to allow it to slide onto the hub shaft as its an interference fit, if need be use a piece of wood across the wheels studs to help tap the disc onto the hub, then pop on the outer bearing:
Refit the spacer, with the tab in the notch then the nut (handtight), the nut crown and new split pin like so:
Now onto the calipers, remove the old pads from the carrier then liberally grease the sliders where the pads can seize over time, a touch of grease on the pad clips where the piston makes contact is also a good idea:
Fit the new pads and clips leaving a gap large enough to fit over the discs:
Then simply bolt the whole carrier back onto the hub (grease up the bolts to aid future removal too):
Then slide over the caliper, it should fit easily by pushing out the sliders where the bolts go through, aslong as the piston has been wound in enough then tighten the bolts (agai grease up the bolts to aid future removal too):
The last thing to do is to refit the grease cap, however if you fancy it you could give the calipers a lick of paint for the hell of it:
Then attack the other side exactly the same as the above:
Finally pop the wheels back on (a bit of copper grease on the studs and face of the disc where the whel sits is again a good idea) lower the car back down and admire the new brakes:
Be sure to follow any specific bedding in procedure provided with the new pads and take it easy for the first few miles, its also advisable to give the brakes a full bleed to get the full benefits of the new setup.
Disclaimer: I write this as a guide for reference only and will not be held responsible for anyone who follows my above advice and ends up stuck under their car or in a ditch.
Its very simple to do, the only tricky part is winding in the caliper piston where I would definately recomend buying the proper tool to do it with, otherwise its pretty straight forward.
So first off you'll need;
- Your new discs together with new inner and outer bearings and grease
- The new pads
- Caliper piston wind back tool (I tried previously with just a screw driver but when the piston is far out its hard to get back in and is easy to damage, plus the tool costs less than a tenner anyway)
- A 12 and 14mm socket and wrench
- A large flat head screw driver
- A pair of pliers
- Jack and axle stands
- A brush
- WD40!
First off loosen off the rear wheel nuts at both sides then jack the car up and safely support it using the axle stands and wheel chocks (also put the car in gear and the handbrake off), then remove the wheels and you'll be looking at this:
There's only 2 bolts holding the caliper to the pad carrier then another 2 holding the carrier to the hub as shown below:
Top caliper and pad carrier bolts:
Bottom caliper and pad carrier bolts:
I gave the calipers a little clean up before starting to loosen and remove any dirt then gave the bolts a spray with WD40:
I then removed the grease cap by prysing it off with a flat head screw driver:
Next remove the caliper by undoing the two 12mm bolts:
Then pry it off with a large screw driver or similar:
Put it to one side and then remove the pad carrier by undoing the two 14mm bolts holding it on:
You'll now be left with just the disc to remove:
To remove it, take off the split pin using the pliers and then the crown holding the nut:
The large nut should only be hand tight, as if its over tightened it squeezes the bearings and stops the disc turing, however if its a little too tight its a 22mm socket which fits. With it off the disc should just pull off and the outer bearing will probably fall off along with the spacer which go's against the bearing:
You can throw away the old disc and bearing but you'll need the other bits, then you'll be left with a completly naked albeit greasy hub:
Before fitting the new pads the caliper piston needs wound back in, so grab the wind back tool:
Then using the correct side line up the tabs in the piston and wind it in using the socket wrench going clockwise, do it until its flush with the body of the caliper and also so that the holes are lined up horizontally as there are small bumps on the pads which these line up with. (Sorry I forgot to take pics of this)
Next get your new discs and bearings (only the inner bearing is shown):
Fill the inside of the disc with grease to give a good supply to the bearings then pop in the inner bearing and seal, you'll need to give the bearing a little grease to allow it to slide onto the hub shaft as its an interference fit, if need be use a piece of wood across the wheels studs to help tap the disc onto the hub, then pop on the outer bearing:
Refit the spacer, with the tab in the notch then the nut (handtight), the nut crown and new split pin like so:
Now onto the calipers, remove the old pads from the carrier then liberally grease the sliders where the pads can seize over time, a touch of grease on the pad clips where the piston makes contact is also a good idea:
Fit the new pads and clips leaving a gap large enough to fit over the discs:
Then simply bolt the whole carrier back onto the hub (grease up the bolts to aid future removal too):
Then slide over the caliper, it should fit easily by pushing out the sliders where the bolts go through, aslong as the piston has been wound in enough then tighten the bolts (agai grease up the bolts to aid future removal too):
The last thing to do is to refit the grease cap, however if you fancy it you could give the calipers a lick of paint for the hell of it:
Then attack the other side exactly the same as the above:
Finally pop the wheels back on (a bit of copper grease on the studs and face of the disc where the whel sits is again a good idea) lower the car back down and admire the new brakes:
Be sure to follow any specific bedding in procedure provided with the new pads and take it easy for the first few miles, its also advisable to give the brakes a full bleed to get the full benefits of the new setup.
Disclaimer: I write this as a guide for reference only and will not be held responsible for anyone who follows my above advice and ends up stuck under their car or in a ditch.
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