steve-gers
Member +
Could do with finding out how to do this as it would be alot easier than converting to manual for bigger bhp.
A/T Fluid Change
- Thread starter steve-gers
- Start date
This is not something you can do easily by adjusting your existing gearbox, this is additional box installed on to your gearbox.
I will speak to him and see what he says about it and ask about the price as well. It will not only improve the torque converter so it can handle higher torque, but also increase the speed between the gear changes.
Yes I remember he had very high boost and low temperatures it would be good to know his answer for high boost.
To control slipping you can simply get a Blitz type K24 turbo because it is designed to peak and drop torque quickly to limit slipping and heat build up.
I was wondering if a td04L might work - This turbo can holds its top torque much much longer and i think would burn the stock torque convertor and wear quickly.
So this is why I suggest uprating the stock convertor to to 240 ftlb . It is not just a matter of peak torque it is the wear rate on hot days that has also to be considered. The add on box sounds very attractive more detail would be great and I am particularly interested in the torque increase and whether it results in any torque losses low down in the revs.?
Last edited:
I've just sent him an email.
He said that Starlet Gearboxes are very simple and pretty reliable. He ususally works on powerfull gearboxes capable of runnning over 500bhp, or in some cases even 1000 bhp. His Soarer has an Auto and he is running 11s on the drag, which is pretty impressive in my opinion, also he's been running the car for over 8 years now!
Also what BHP are you talking about when you have over 200 ftlb of torque? it has to be somewhere around 200bhp?
Thanks Paul,
Would be looking for Td04L with max bhp it can that can match the blitz k24 torque curve below 3600 rpm.
Unforged for a 4e looking at dynos I would say 240hp and 220ftlb would work well with a 240ftlb torque convertor.
If Forged would probably go 5e I have not considered what power this would be.
Would be looking for Td04L with max bhp it can that can match the blitz k24 torque curve below 3600 rpm.
Unforged for a 4e looking at dynos I would say 240hp and 220ftlb would work well with a 240ftlb torque convertor.
If Forged would probably go 5e I have not considered what power this would be.
steve-gers
Member +
Just wondering how long the torque convertor will last at 230-240bhp and 220ftlbs? Will it wear out faster or will it just slip/blow up after that figure? Also Jay how did you clean the filter? I was going to use clutch cleaner spray.
I suppose with that kind of power you will have to change the ATF fluid every month or two, otherwise it will slip on the high torque. It won't be cheap -)
The issue I see is Climate -
I have read posted here that Auto box torque convertor slips at 210 ft lb goes crazy hot and fails so allowing a little tolerance using 200 torque and using. ( BHP = rpm x torque / 5252 )
The max Auto fhp is say 6500rpm x 200/5252 = 247 fhp
In reality torque will fall at higher revs so based on a TD04L dyno using peak torque at 200 ft lb and torque at peak power of 6500rpm of 180 ftlb = 222 fhp
The issue is the Tdo4 L will have more torque in cold weather approx. below 15degC which would break the gearbox so larger power turbos would need 2 maps one for cold weather to keep torque below 200ft lb.
The other cavet would be make sure you have a temp gauge on the auto box oil cooler circuit and report back to us what happens.
I have read posted here that Auto box torque convertor slips at 210 ft lb goes crazy hot and fails so allowing a little tolerance using 200 torque and using. ( BHP = rpm x torque / 5252 )
The max Auto fhp is say 6500rpm x 200/5252 = 247 fhp
In reality torque will fall at higher revs so based on a TD04L dyno using peak torque at 200 ft lb and torque at peak power of 6500rpm of 180 ftlb = 222 fhp
The issue is the Tdo4 L will have more torque in cold weather approx. below 15degC which would break the gearbox so larger power turbos would need 2 maps one for cold weather to keep torque below 200ft lb.
The other cavet would be make sure you have a temp gauge on the auto box oil cooler circuit and report back to us what happens.
Last edited:
steve-gers
Member +
Hmmm seems like a lot of hassle I may just take the boost controller and a few other modded parts off, sell the car and buy a manual one for TD04. Only thing is I love the car and know it well now plus is has over 10k worth of receipts and is very clean underneath plus the engine is less than 40k old.
Texx
Super Moderator
Why not just fit a manual transmission? All the parts you'd need could be easily sourced from someone breaking a car and the job would be easily done over a weekend.
Part's you'll need would be:
Gearbox
Clutch
Flywheel
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch fluid pipe and hose
Pedal box
Gear shifter and cables
AFAIK the auto driveshafts will fit, though you may need the gearbox mounts, shit plate for the bell housing and starter motor if they're different?
Shit plate? -)
The gearbox mount will fit a non LSD Manual with minor mods, as I managed to fit the manual non LSD mount to my Auto -)
Texx
Super Moderator
Sit's behind the flywheel and is sandwiched between the engine and gearbox, stops shit getting into the bell housing and damaging/contaminating the clutch.
I tried to swap to a maunal box when my auto box was getting fixed they said it was too expensive but fixed the auto box for AU$900. Texx has a good idea but my wife wants auto so I am thinking go td04 with 2 safcIIs wired to a single switch is a cheap way to get two maps maybe plus an itc where you just push a button to change timing for extra special occasions!
Jay
Admin
Thought I'd update this thread with info on the ATF filter part number I managed to source despite Toyota telling me there wasn't one..
Basically to change the filter you just drain the fluid (remember to measure how much you took out) and undo the 10mm bolts to drop the sump pan:
The ominous dark thing here is your filter:
Three bolts hold it onto the gearbag then it should pop off.
Pretty ain't she?
You should also remove the old gasket from the sump pan as well as they don't reseal terribly well.
Find and clean the sump magnets as they will be furry with swarf:
Should look like the one on the right before refitting:
Speaking of refitting, you should make sure everything looks clean :
Part number for the filter is 35330-12020
Compares well to the old one:
Also the part number for the sump gasket is 35168-12020:
Refit everything and refill the box. Run through the gears at stand still a few times and recheck the ATF level at operating temperature with the box running, adjust as necessary.
Hope that helps update the thread for everyone.
Jay
Basically to change the filter you just drain the fluid (remember to measure how much you took out) and undo the 10mm bolts to drop the sump pan:
The ominous dark thing here is your filter:
Three bolts hold it onto the gearbag then it should pop off.
Pretty ain't she?
You should also remove the old gasket from the sump pan as well as they don't reseal terribly well.
Find and clean the sump magnets as they will be furry with swarf:
Should look like the one on the right before refitting:
Speaking of refitting, you should make sure everything looks clean :
Part number for the filter is 35330-12020
Compares well to the old one:
Also the part number for the sump gasket is 35168-12020:
Refit everything and refill the box. Run through the gears at stand still a few times and recheck the ATF level at operating temperature with the box running, adjust as necessary.
Hope that helps update the thread for everyone.
Jay
dark_knight
Member +
Brilliant write-up mate.. 