12 & 52.

S

Sigma

Member +
Got 12 & 52 fault codes, both relating to engine rpm signals.

52 is the knock sensor.
12 is the ECU not receiving an RPM signal.

Just me that thinks that this will be the same fault?

If so, any hints?
 
Q

Quigonjay

Fresh Recruit
pretty sure some toyotas get the rpm signal from the distributor
this caused a problem for me when i fitted an apexi power fc to my mr2, it wouldnt idle as the ecu wasnt getting a signal, swappped the disturbutor and was fine after
hth
Jay
 
S

Sigma

Member +
Hmm.

A touch odd tbh, it was fine 3 months ago, and it's simply been sat on a bench and then refitted.

Reckon it could be the plug that's not properly clicked on?
 
Q

Quigonjay

Fresh Recruit
Sigma said:
Hmm.

A touch odd tbh, it was fine 3 months ago, and it's simply been sat on a bench and then refitted.

Reckon it could be the plug that's not properly clicked on?
Click to expand...

the distributer has been sat and refitted you mean?
what are your symptoms? or are you just enquiring about the codes?
Jay
 
Q

Quigonjay

Fresh Recruit
i wouldnt worry about it then if there are no symptoms
you would know about it if your knock sensor had gone (permanent safe mode)
on a side note though, what have you had fitted?
if pistons/rings then you should be giving it a little bit of stick to bed the rings in
 
S

Sigma

Member +
I've done it all myself :)

It's just had new big end shells as the ones on number two had a coppery line appearing :)

Changed out of precaution ;)

Yeah, I've experienced the K/S failing before, it's like driving a Nissan Sunny, lmao :)
 
S

Sigma

Member +
The bottom end didn't fail.

It was the blocktop which was like a banana!

Had to take between 2 and 3 thou off of it to get it back true :)

It's running a .6 TRD Gasket now, so mega compression :)
 
Q

Quigonjay

Fresh Recruit
twisted block?
what boost where you running?
so much it sounds like it was trying to lift the head of the block or something :haha:
 
W

weakboy2

Member +
i told you so!!!!

i seem to remember you telling me the block was perfect when i mentioned warped block before.

anyhow if you havent fitted new rings and you have put the pistons back in the cylinder they were removed from you dont need to run it in, its only rings that need to be run in (one way or another).
 
Q

Quigonjay

Fresh Recruit
cant say i have heard that before, a cast iron block will crack not stretch
you must have had some cooling issues/heat spots in the block then for that to have happened
 
S

Sigma

Member +
Yeah, weakey, we got the gauges on it with the balance lights and it was out enough to cause issues.

The pistons have gone back in the same holes as they were, so after the first crank and run, they were back sealed.

:)
 
S

Sigma

Member +
weakboy2 said:
Warped block is commonly to do with excess heat btw.

are you actually a mechanic/technician tommy?
Click to expand...

Yes :)

Qualified Mechanical Engineer :)

Father's had a garage for nearly 35 years now, so he's the spanner monkey, I just get techhy on his experienced ass, lmao.

We're a good team ;)

Yeah, but we ruled that out, as the warping was actually on the inlet side ;)
 
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