4efte wont fire

A

allpr0h

Member +
hi people

i have recently swapped a 4efte into my toyota tercel (lol) and now engine is cranking but never firing
when i take out the coil wire from the distributor and gets it close to the negative pole of the battery, i will see a spark from time to time something like tak--tak------tak-------tak------tak nothing steady like taktaktaktak if you know what i mean
i touch it, i get a shock, so i presume my coil is good....

when i take out an ignition lead, put a spark plug into it and gets it close to the frame, there will never be spark... i am using brand new 1992 paseo ignition leads

i have diagnostic saying

15 Starter Signal Circuit
Coil pack wires

the bracket of the ignitor/coil is bolted to the strut and the contact surfaces are mirror... so i guess grounding is good

any help/tips/idea what so ever would be greatly appreciated, as i have no fear to say i am at a total loss :(


thanks a lot
nate
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Check the rotor arm and dizzy cap, no good getting a spark at the king lead if its not getting through those to the spark plug leads. Have you had to modify any wiring to fit the turbo engine?
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
yes i actually had to modify a few wires mainly the throttle position sensor, the distributor, and had to add 3 wires to my ecu plug for the vsv1 and disc inputs and G1 or G2 distributor input

i have followed a schematic a few people confirmed it working
i have posted it here, made by TercelGTS
http://i50.tinypic.com/1zf05ua.jpg

i have rechecked my distributor wiring to the ecu... routing is fine
is it possible a pin in my ecu connector would not be touching properly the male pin of the ecu? if distributor has missing input to ecu, do you think it would cause the engine not to start at all, or just to run poorly...

thanks
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
alright imma make sure all 4 pins of the distributor connector are properly connected to the ecu, i will pop the cover and test for continuity -- if its wrong in the connector, i will solder it to the board ;)


thanks a lot man
nate
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
ok its nothing new, it wont start.
i have soldered the distributor connector to the ecu board, correctly

i have unplugged everything but the coil/ignitor/injectors/distributor under the hood
i uploaded 2 videos of like 1 minute
you can see my safc-ii turning crazy, like while i crank engine it will come with a reading of 3000 rpm or so.. wtf

it started like 3 seconds or so yesterday, safc came up with a 200rpm reading which i think is accurate
what do you people suspect, bad distributor? like its freaking out and sometimes will make the ecu believe its running at 3000rpm while cranking? thought the ecu would just count some inputs in an interval of time.. whatever
seriously im really out of ideas, any idea will be greatly appreciated

thanks
nate

pics of the cap/rotor
http://i50.tinypic.com/2rxtq2t.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2hzpa4p.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2u6fdle.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/1zf3ko0.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2a679eg.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/30x77tx.jpg

videos of craking
http://youtu.be/cot13IR8y_g
http://youtu.be/1usaNRU2Hdk
 
T

the bullet

Member +
my glanza was the same have you checked the main earth cable coming from the battery ?? if its not grounded fully car will fail to start
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
I think the SAFC may be reading 3000 rpm at cranking as it (and the ECU) are reading the 24 tooth rotor signal in place of the 4 tooth rotor signal. G- is the common wire to these 2 coils, it comes from the ECU to the distributor. G1 and G2 are the ECU connections used I think, not Ne and G1 as I said earlier. It could be a dodgy distributor, but after doing a few conversions myself, I know it is easy to get a few wires mixed up sometimes.
 
Last edited:
A

allpr0h

Member +
hrm i just posted a reply but i dont see it appear so i post it again
was sayin;

awesome thanks kiss kiss cheers hug hug and stuff ;]
i inversed NE and G2 and that 4e fired right up w00t!!1

but now, on the safc-ii sensor check page, i see "throttle" at 5volts all the time
so as soon as i fire up the engine it starts reving up near the red line and throttle plate is closed...
its like it thinks im flooring it? how comes... any clues for my damn new problem

thanks a lot tho folks, im freaking happy this toyota engine is running at least
;)))
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
If the throttle plate is closed, then you have forgotten to put a hose on the inlet somewhere, or you have a serious vacuum leak after the throttle plate. Take the plug off the throttle position sensor and use a bit of wire to link the bottom 2 connections in the plug. If when you start it again the engine revs to about 200 revs then cuts out for a few seconds and then revs again, the throttle position sensor is out and needs set.
 
Stu-

Stu-

Member +
As weeJohn says, if its reving up and the throttle butterfly is closed you have a serious leak somewhere. Is there any sucking noises to signal a leak? Have you got the brake booster line connected? The other thing to check would be the idle up under the throttle body, especially if your not running power steering.

With the SAFC, may pay to double check you've got the input coming from the signal side of the throttle body and not the 5v feed from the ECU
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
alright people
i had this 4e running well today, i think its because my tercel gas pedal wire is a lill short (has to be...) the throttle plate was never closed
i removed the bracket and its running just fine
i will customize the bracket so it fits correctly

thanks to infinity to all of you, seriously
just one more thing that wont let me sleep tonight -- when i connect the safc to the NE signal, it instantly reads 9999 RPM and when i connect the safc rpm signal to the G2 signal, it seems to have a correct reading as i can see it increment up to around 200 RPM, but the car will not start... any clue? seems my safc green rpm signal wire if connected to NE will read 9999 and if connected to G2 will "seem" to be good, but car wont start....

thanks a lot for all the help so far
nate
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
i think finally i only need to know what wire is the RPM signal im supposed to connect the safc to
and one last thing.. damn, after the engine has been running for 10 seconds the temperature gauge in the dash gets to HOT and stays there for a lonnngg time
i doubt engine is HOOTTTT... so i dunno really eh

thanks
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Sounds like the wire to the temp sender is not connected. Its the spade terminal to the bottom left of the thermo housing.
 
George611

George611

Member +
^ I've got the same thing dodgy wire to the temp sender sends the gauge throo the roof every now n then lol
if it is connected trace the wire and give it a wiggle see if the gauge drops (Y)
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
aight
well i tested continuity and its fine
if i unplug the wire, the gauge stays to cold and never moves
i plug it, it reaches hot in no time

but to be honnest, i dont really care of the gauge.. however how can i make sure the thermostat valve (im not sure of this..) is opened to that prestone can flow properly and engine is not everheating? after few minutes engine is idling the top hose of radiator is pretty hot and the bottom one is much cooler, but still has some heat

is there a trick you folks can give me to make sure prestone is flowing? screw the gauge at worse..

thanks
nate
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
If the top hose is hot the stat is open, if the bottom hose is cooler, the rad is doing its job ok. Are you sure you have the plug on the right sensor? there is another one in that area that is for the air con, its just a switch thats either on or off. Swap them over, pretty sure the gauge sensor is the top one.
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
ok i will try to swap the plugs over, im getting paranoid lmao
after how long the engine running should i see the temperature gauge in the dash moving from cold to around middle, normally?
i will let engine run for the time you tell me and try swapping the plugs over

at least im glad you tell me the system seems to be flowing properly, it secures me a little ;]
im really new and love toyota.. wouldnt want to blow my machine for a misunderstood overheating issue
thanks
 
A

allpr0h

Member +
hrm okay im not sure but i think one spade terminal gets my temperature gague in the dash to hit the HOT instantly and the other one stays cold....
im about to turn crazy on this misunderstanding of mine, so someone tell me if im right to think like this;
if top hose is hot than thermostat is opened (fluid is circulating)
bottom hose is cooler, radiator is cooling properly
so in all other cases i can ignore the reading of the temperature gauge in the dash?

my radiator fan never starts, unless i unplug a white connector near the green water temperature connector.. does the ecu controls the fan?
is the dash temperature needle just for information in a way that if it is not functioning properly it is no big deal...
my swap is at the garage getting the muffler welded i cant wait to drive it but im so uncertain about this temperature thing that i fear driving it...

thanks to infinity
nate
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Try the sensor from your original engine into the turbo engine and see if it works any better, the conditions you are getting with the hoses sounds normal. Also switch the rad fan switch over, but the fan usually works when you remove the plug from the switch so it only sounds like the switch is at fault there as well.
 
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