Anyone running the ME221 ECU from Motorsport electronics?

Glanza_Muzz

Fresh Recruit
I’m currently trying to get my glanza to run on a me221 but having a lot of trouble. The garage I’m getting it tuned by is a dealer for motorsport electronics and said with ME stuff there are always quite a few teething issues but once they are sorted the are pretty good.
After three fails attempts at getting it started I’ve had to get a spare distributor and grind two specific teeth out of it because it needs to know where the cam position is to fire so thats the only way to do it I think, hopefully should fingers crossed have it running this week. If I can’t get it to work and just going to sell the ecu and modified dizzy and get a Apexi or similar
 

dark_knight

Member +
I am setting up for one and so far, I like the software side of things. I'm yet to actually run it so can't comment much.. YET!
 

dark_knight

Member +
I think the general opinion on them was they where a bit crap from reading up on them, ECU master or link personally I would go for :)
As with most things, people look for the easiest way out. It's a human thing.. :D
I'm just wondering if there is an actual problem with them.. or if - as usual - we are just being humans.. lazy and wanting instant gratification.. :p
I'd sure like to see / hear about / read on some real-life problems with them..
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
As with most things, people look for the easiest way out. It's a human thing.. :D
I'm just wondering if there is an actual problem with them.. or if - as usual - we are just being humans.. lazy and wanting instant gratification.. :p
I'd sure like to see / hear about / read on some real-life problems with them..
Seen a few people that even with modifying the distributor, can't get it running.

The tuner I used for my starlet didn't rate them too highly. Not sure if that was down to using them though!?
 

dark_knight

Member +
Well then. Fair warning as I'm just getting to this stage of the build. I've shaved down the two teeth so wish me luck. The ME221 ECM that I have was running on an engine before it came to me so I'm pretty confident that it will work for me as well.

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My dizzy before the butcher arrived.. :D

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It was easier to shave it on the car so the tape was to catch all the metal filings which was a nightmare to control but thanks to the power of magnetism, it was less of a mess than earlier feared.. :p
 
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daniel_g

Member +
Hope it all goes well fella.

The mapper I use does supply the ME ECUs, not really sure what he thinks about them.
 

Glanza_Muzz

Fresh Recruit
Bit of a update on mine, we managed to get it running with the modified dizzy but are now struggling with afr reading because it’s currently reading the wide band through the old lambda plug but according to motorsport electronics it needs to be wired straight to the ecu so that’s the next ball ache we have to deal with because there is not existing loom for it to be wired into.

although it’s advertised as a plug and play ecu its anything but.
 

dark_knight

Member +
Bit of a update on mine, we managed to get it running with the modified dizzy but are now struggling with afr reading because it’s currently reading the wide band through the old lambda plug but according to motorsport electronics it needs to be wired straight to the ecu so that’s the next ball ache we have to deal with because there is not existing loom for it to be wired into.

although it’s advertised as a plug and play ecu its anything but.

Yes, the wideband needs to go on the board directly. By now, we can all agree nothing aftermarket is plug-&-play, even when they say it is.. hehehe :cool:
Care to share any images from your install..?

Some cheat codes for you if you need.
The onboard connector is compatible with any of the old-styled PC power supplies and you can find these from any junker.. unless you want to purchase specific connector plugs.
I'll be using mine for the extra functionality offered.. so hope I don't kill myself while at it.. :p

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The onboard plug/connector is on the same side as the WB plug/connector but may be a tight fit if the case is to go back on. Yet to figure that out.. :)

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What the plug looks like..

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& where it can be found. Any old PC power supply will have it. I forget the ISO-standard name for the plug but Bob's your uncle and the Internet is your friend..
 
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dark_knight

Member +
I’m not running coil and plug just magncore Leeds

Aha. I'm already on the CoP upgrade. Here's a WiP build album that I've not updated in a long minute.. but should give some insight for those who want to go the same route. I'm a cheapskate like that so reusing a lot of OE parts, even from other vehicles. Coils from Toyota. Harness plug connectors from Subaru. An AUX fuse box from Mazda - because I have way too many electronics and electrical additions..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jMkucTniPccg2VMm8

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Not yet sure how I will secure the packs but will probably just weld a cross-bar of sorts to hold all the bolt points..

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Coil side showing the re-purposed connectors. I even color-matched them in black and gray just like OE. Harness color codes are from VW though.. :D

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This - IIRC - is a transmission connector plug from a Subaru, but I liked it because it has very snug-fitting weather-proofed wire/pin 'ports', plus it had all the pins I needed as each coil got a dedicated power feed, ground and the trigger + feedback signal lines..

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Everything coming along nicely, including the color-matched sheaths..

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The AUX fuse box that I nicked from a Mazda to hold additional fusible links and relays for all the extra stuff. Case in point, each of the coil packs has an individual fusible link.. as well as other things like each headlamp having dedicated protection per-side per-beam, so I can pull a fusible link and disable just the LHS main beam for instance.. which is a massive difference from what we know our cars to be.. :D
 

Alex_me

Fresh Recruit
Hi guys. I'm one of the creators of the ME ECUs. As far as we're aware we've managed to address all the problems with various installs. The most common one is ignition electrical noise spilling into the trigger signals, but after that everything should be golden.

Yes, we'll be the first to say there were teething issues when we developed this as there seemed to be a lot of variability between cars (the first ones we did in house and were perfect). We do apologize for any problems you've encountered and happy to try and help with anything we can.
 

Djaniero

Member +
Hi guys. I'm one of the creators of the ME ECUs. As far as we're aware we've managed to address all the problems with various installs. The most common one is ignition electrical noise spilling into the trigger signals, but after that everything should be golden.

Yes, we'll be the first to say there were teething issues when we developed this as there seemed to be a lot of variability between cars (the first ones we did in house and were perfect). We do apologize for any problems you've encountered and happy to try and help with anything we can.
Hi Alex,

Is there a solution to the ignition electrical noise spilling into the trigger signal, or is it still just a case of modifying the oem dizzy?
Also what about the above issues with the afr readings?


ps @dark_knight and @Glanza_Muzz are your cars up and running now or still are you still having teething issues?

Thanks guys
 

Glanza_Muzz

Fresh Recruit
Hi Alex,

Is there a solution to the ignition electrical noise spilling into the trigger signal, or is it still just a case of modifying the oem dizzy?
Also what about the above issues with the afr readings?


ps @dark_knight and @Glanza_Muzz are your cars up and running now or still are you still having teething issues?

Thanks guys
I’ve given up with mine. We couldn’t get any consistency with it starting, sometimes it would fire straight up rough idle for a minute (we tried with auto tune/idle on and off but made no difference almost making it worse tbh) then it would die and refuse to start again.

As recommended we disconnected 2 wires on the distributor plug (can’t remember what ones) and at the other end but still was giving us inconsistent readings and starting.

So I’m on the lookout for an Apexi power fc with hand commander and loom/adapter if anyone happens to have one they want rid of

Best of luck.
 

Alex_me

Fresh Recruit
Hi Alex,

Is there a solution to the ignition electrical noise spilling into the trigger signal, or is it still just a case of modifying the oem dizzy?
Also what about the above issues with the afr readings?


ps @dark_knight and @Glanza_Muzz are your cars up and running now or still are you still having teething issues?

Thanks guys

From my colleagues' research on the matter, other plug-in ECUs like Link report similar issues unfortunately. So unfortunately for us it's still a case of modifying the stock dizzy, which is the solution we found. There is of course the option of adding a trigger kit, so it's a case of choosing your poison. Regarding the AFR, I'm not sure I understand the issue. The stock car didn't come with a Bosch wideband sensor, so of course adding it as a separate feature for the ECU will be some extra work.

On the plus side the ECU does support COPs and the maps can be switched using the boost control button in the car.

@Glanza_Muzz : Sorry to hear you've been having issues. I think it's worth determining if the start-up issues are due to the triggering or fueling/ignition. Any standalone ECU will require tuning, ESPECIALLY for cold start conditions. Fortunately we have a partnership with a remote tuner (Alex Hickson, search his name in the MX5 communities) and he gets MX5s to start like an OEM ECU. If the triggering is ok, I can't see why he wouldn't be able to achieve similar results on the Starlet as well.
 

Djaniero

Member +
I’ve given up with mine. We couldn’t get any consistency with it starting, sometimes it would fire straight up rough idle for a minute (we tried with auto tune/idle on and off but made no difference almost making it worse tbh) then it would die and refuse to start again.

As recommended we disconnected 2 wires on the distributor plug (can’t remember what ones) and at the other end but still was giving us inconsistent readings and starting.

So I’m on the lookout for an Apexi power fc with hand commander and loom/adapter if anyone happens to have one they want rid of

Best of luck.
Sorry to hear you still had issues and three in the towel. I had a simile experience with my GT and sold the ME221 for a Emanage Ultimate. I haven’t had any issues with it but I’m in the process of doing a forged build and thought I would see what stand alone options were available.
There is a member on the FB group selling an Apexi Power FC with controller etc for a Glanza.
Good luck with it.
 

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Djaniero

Member +
From my colleagues' research on the matter, other plug-in ECUs like Link report similar issues unfortunately. So unfortunately for us it's still a case of modifying the stock dizzy, which is the solution we found. There is of course the option of adding a trigger kit, so it's a case of choosing your poison. Regarding the AFR, I'm not sure I understand the issue. The stock car didn't come with a Bosch wideband sensor, so of course adding it as a separate feature for the ECU will be some extra work.

On the plus side the ECU does support COPs and the maps can be switched using the boost control button in the car.

@Glanza_Muzz : Sorry to hear you've been having issues. I think it's worth determining if the start-up issues are due to the triggering or fueling/ignition. Any standalone ECU will require tuning, ESPECIALLY for cold start conditions. Fortunately we have a partnership with a remote tuner (Alex Hickson, search his name in the MX5 communities) and he gets MX5s to start like an OEM ECU. If the triggering is ok, I can't see why he wouldn't be able to achieve similar results on the Starlet as well.
Thanks for the response.

Does Alex Hickson tune all cars or just Mx5s specifically?
 
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