Engine rebuild,first 1000km OIL choose?

E10-2001-CT9

E10-2001-CT9

Member +
Hi, got my 4efte rebuild with Wössner pistons and Scat rods and ACL bearing.
Can anyone tell what oil is original equipped in 4efte engines? what is proposed from Toyota?

I heard after rebuild, an engine should run first 1000km with mineralic oil, whats with semi synthetic? should i use pure mineralic?
later i would go to motul 5w40 300V or 10W60, but the oilman said 10w60 is not teh optimal choose for the 4efte.
 
H_D

H_D

Member +
you need to use mineral oil anything between 5w40 and 10w40 for the first 800-1000 miles,
I did 8 oil and filter changes in the 1st 1000 miles and the 1st one was done after 50 miles.
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Mineral oil is needed to help the rings wear to the shape of the bores, they wont do that with synthetic oil so you have done right so far. No harm in going to fully synthetic now, however the thinner oil can cause some problems with low oil pressure at idle on a build that the clearances are not that tight on. Try a fully synthetic 10w40 first and see how the engine runs with it, if you do see the oil light flicker when the engine is warm on idle, then you could go to the 10w60 after. Its only going to be in for 6-8k miles really so it wont do any real damage.

H_D, 8 changes in 1000 miles, thats nuts lol.
 
H_D

H_D

Member +
weeJohn said:
Mineral oil is needed to help the rings wear to the shape of the bores, they wont do that with synthetic oil so you have done right so far. No harm in going to fully synthetic now, however the thinner oil can cause some problems with low oil pressure at idle on a build that the clearances are not that tight on. Try a fully synthetic 10w40 first and see how the engine runs with it, if you do see the oil light flicker when the engine is warm on idle, then you could go to the 10w60 after. Its only going to be in for 6-8k miles really so it wont do any real damage.

H_D, 8 changes in 1000 miles, thats nuts lol.
Click to expand...

I am nuts lol.

I was advised to change the oil and filter after the 1st 50 miles to help flush out all of the swarf that builds up and the deposits that are left behind from the building grease ect.

After the 1st oil change i kept changing the oil and filter between every 100-150miles untill i got to 1000 miles.
After the 1st 1000 miles i started using fuchs titan pro race oil 5w40 and have been using that since.
I have done approx 8000 miles now and still going strong.
 
B

bongskag

Member +
H_D said:
I am nuts lol.

I was advised to change the oil and filter after the 1st 50 miles to help flush out all of the swarf that builds up and the deposits that are left behind from the building grease ect.

After the 1st oil change i kept changing the oil and filter between every 100-150miles untill i got to 1000 miles.
After the 1st 1000 miles i started using fuchs titan pro race oil 5w40 and have been using that since.
I have done approx 8000 miles now and still going strong.
Click to expand...

x2 I did the same, ran it in on millers Competition running in oil until 1000miles. changed the first at about 40 miles.
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
all the engines I've built are done with millers running in oil. its pretty cheap as well.

i do the initial fireup, change at 50miles. then again at 250, then again at 600 then at 1000miles go for full syth and its full power ecu setup.

I find it best to do a few frequent changes at the start because any metal particles from poor cleaning or parts bedding in will be the most at first start up so flushing it out keeps everything running as it should instead of scratching everything :)

and it doesn't matter who tells you this, engines can not be run-in on a dyno!!!

Hope that helps
 
S

Skalabala

Member +
Just build your engine properly in a clean room :D
I change at 50KM and then go to good oil at 1000KM
And rather stay away from "assembly grease" use the oil that you put in the engine after its built, crank it without the spark plugs till the oil light goes off :)

Different run in rules/oil usage applies to to different builds. Some rings wants a tar road finish to bed against :p And has a long run in interval and uses a lot of oil.

A good standard rebuild on a NA daily driver will be all good after the first 50km all bed in and not using oil at all!

And I hope you had your engine hot bored as it will have a dramatic impact on your forged engine life and oil usage!
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
and also done using a torque plate.

there are many companies that i know over here don't bother to torque plate and hot bore although i do know alot say they do but don't.

i do agree with using a clean room as well, so many engines put together in the same workshop where 10ft away someones cutting up a car with metal dust everywhere :(

for assembly grease i like to use redline assembly lube, it helps keeps everything lubricated properly while your spinning the engine over in the first 30 seconds to get oil pressure. Its more heavy going than normal engine oil. Plus agree with the magnetic sump plug, fit these as standard anyway.

Probably why in over 10 years i've never had an engine go wrong or fail. ;)
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
how about having a magnet secured in the oil pan the same way the transmission has one at the bottom of the box. i'm sure this would aid in catching a lot of metal splinters that may get past the oil element..
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
we actually sell magnetic oil plugs that go into the sump with a very strong magnet built into the middle. I fit them on all my engine builds.

But unlike most of the market which are alloy and soft so very common to get snapped off inside the sump, ours are a nickel coated steel so just as strong as the original item. Nice little thing at £12.00

Tim :)
 
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