FAO Exedy clutch users
- Thread starter Chris@CCM
- Start date
Gryzor
Admin
" World renowned for quality and reliability, AISIN Clutches hold the largest market share of parts supplied and manufactured for Toyota. This technology is incorporated into products supplied to other automakers as Original Equipment. By applying the knowledge and experience derived from OE manufacturing, AISIN Aftermarket parts are of equal quality and reliability.
One of AISIN's unique and innovative technologies, the NVR (Noise Vibration Reduction) Clutch proves performance and environmental awareness can go hand in hand. The NVR clutch system has been adopted into the automotive industry as Original Equipment."
http://www.aisinaftermarket.jp/en/products/clutch/index.html
One of AISIN's unique and innovative technologies, the NVR (Noise Vibration Reduction) Clutch proves performance and environmental awareness can go hand in hand. The NVR clutch system has been adopted into the automotive industry as Original Equipment."
http://www.aisinaftermarket.jp/en/products/clutch/index.html
p_a_green29
Member +
I had a 30% uprated one on my 1st starlet. Was fine at first but quickly became notchy and unpredicably sticky.
Then I got an organic and that was perfect. Like dirving with a std clutvh that could take loads of power
Then I got an organic and that was perfect. Like dirving with a std clutvh that could take loads of power
starlet666
Member +
i went through 4 custom made exedy clutches on my celica when i had it..... they were like yer it will handle the torque u make.... it made 130nm less than i told them they all lasted less than 3 weeks..... fitted correctly......
put one in the starlet and it wrecked itself in 3 months....
put an xtreme clutch in both and have never had a problem since.... the motor out of my celica still has the clutch on it 3 years later..... its now in a camary and it is daily driven in traffic
the starlet one has been in for a little over 10 000kms and i cannot fault it
it is a custom pieced one also and it feels lighter than standard and bites alot harder as it is a sprung centre button 7 puck clutch..... i would recommend the acs (xtreme) over anything else on the market....
one of my mates even runs one behind a 800hp rb30.... still a single plate and driven very regularly in traffic also... it has done 7000km so far and no probs at all....
put one in the starlet and it wrecked itself in 3 months....
put an xtreme clutch in both and have never had a problem since.... the motor out of my celica still has the clutch on it 3 years later..... its now in a camary and it is daily driven in traffic
the starlet one has been in for a little over 10 000kms and i cannot fault it
it is a custom pieced one also and it feels lighter than standard and bites alot harder as it is a sprung centre button 7 puck clutch..... i would recommend the acs (xtreme) over anything else on the market....
one of my mates even runs one behind a 800hp rb30.... still a single plate and driven very regularly in traffic also... it has done 7000km so far and no probs at all....
ryanerak
Member +
i have an exedy organic in my GT 262bhp, 266lb/ft rattles like mad, drags everynow & again & doesnt release properly half the time. This is my 2nd organic, the 1st one was fine for 9-10 months of fairly hard driving, no problems then it shat itself & broke into pieces 
sure the clutch is to blame for my gear problems, when the car isnt running it goes perfectly smoothly into gear, start the engine & it becomes a job getting it into gear sometimes, clutch has been bled & adjusted and still the problems there
sure the clutch is to blame for my gear problems, when the car isnt running it goes perfectly smoothly into gear, start the engine & it becomes a job getting it into gear sometimes, clutch has been bled & adjusted and still the problems there
garioch
Member +
what are your views on ACT? i have a helix 4 paddle with an exedy pressure plate atm but it started to slip at 280whp so i was looking into an act 6 paddle xtreme.
http://speedvisioncps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=142
anyone had this clutch? or experienced problems?
http://speedvisioncps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=142
anyone had this clutch? or experienced problems?
Texx
Super Moderator
In my experience over the years with clutch drag after fitting a new clutch regardless of manufacture, the route cause was rarely down to the clutch itself. The most common causes for clutch drag have been either crankshaft end float, high spots on the flywheel face, flywheel face warped, bent clutch fork, faulty or incorrect release bearing, faulty clutch slave or master cylinder or worn first motion shaft bearings in the transmission. All these faults can sometimes be masked by fitting a new clutch that has good clearance when depressed, but will never cure them.
The only time I have confirmed the clutch as being the cause for clutch drag is when the springs in the cover are worn and not releasing the friction disc sufficiently, this should not be the case with a brand new clutch unless it's faulty.
It should be a general rule that when fitting a new clutch you check the crankshaft end float and flywheel run out as these checks are simple to do and if your not fitting a new flywheel (never assume a new flywheel will run true, so check it's run out also) have the flywheel refaced. The release bearing should also be replaced, but most clutches come as a kit and include a bearing, just check the bearing has the same dimensions as the one that's being replaced. The transmission first motion shaft bearings are little more difficult to check, but you should at least check to see if there is any end or vertical play when force is applied by hand.
In my opinion, if you just remove the transmission, swap out the clutch and then bolt it all back together, you've only done half a job.
The only time I have confirmed the clutch as being the cause for clutch drag is when the springs in the cover are worn and not releasing the friction disc sufficiently, this should not be the case with a brand new clutch unless it's faulty.
It should be a general rule that when fitting a new clutch you check the crankshaft end float and flywheel run out as these checks are simple to do and if your not fitting a new flywheel (never assume a new flywheel will run true, so check it's run out also) have the flywheel refaced. The release bearing should also be replaced, but most clutches come as a kit and include a bearing, just check the bearing has the same dimensions as the one that's being replaced. The transmission first motion shaft bearings are little more difficult to check, but you should at least check to see if there is any end or vertical play when force is applied by hand.
In my opinion, if you just remove the transmission, swap out the clutch and then bolt it all back together, you've only done half a job.
ryanerak
Member +
i have an exedy organic in my GT 262bhp, 266lb/ft rattles like mad, drags everynow & again & doesnt release properly half the time. This is my 2nd organic, the 1st one was fine for 9-10 months of fairly hard driving, no problems then it shat itself & broke into pieces
2nd organic has gone now! the metal bit where where springs sit has got 2 cracks working there was across it! Contacted Exedy and they claim they havent had a report of any clutch failures on a starlet, bollocks! ive had 2 in less than a year! Really not happy, my GT is my only car so i need it working, they've sent me a warrenty form which i have to fill in then they may require me to send out my broken clutch so they can check it and then take it from there. 100% pain in the arse, could take weeks to sort. I will never ever again buy an exedy clutch, load of shit
weebooster
Banned
my exedy is 4 years old, and organic, was on my gt stock for 3 years until i went td04, its been fine and holds boost in everygear, ive had the clutch out and its perfect no rattle or drag at all A*
no rattle or drag at all A*