few issues, injectors cutting out in 10 second intervals and EMU signal problem...

[goldenvtr]

i did contact Hybrid directly with this issue but after breif pm's ive still got the problem

basically for some reason i keep getting an error message on my emange ultimate - "incompatible airflow signal" i have the same problem on both my eunos roadster and starlet as i use the same emanage for both my cars,however it does read the signals fine and airflow input/output readings are spoton in both cars any ideas, ive triple checked the jumper settings and to my knowledge there spoton, this dosnt affect the mapping/ driving of either cars, just the fact i get the red blinking ligght on the EMU and error message every time i connnect my laptop.


also another weird problem, for some reason when holding a set amount of revs (cruising) or accelerating after cruising for a few seconds the injectors cut out which feels like hitting fuel cut, (i logged a drive on the emanage and its the injector input and output of the emanage that suddenly drop to 0) which leads me to believe its a stock ECU / sensor fault. However if i let fully off the accelarator then re apply the "gas" pedal its fine again for another 10 seconds. this its really bloody annoying, it seems i cant hold a stedy speed/rpm for more than 10 seconds without having to let off and reapply the accelerator.

if anyone has some thoughs please share! more so with the cutting out issue

things ive already checked.

swapped map sensor - made no diffrence
unplugged Throttle position sensor - this made the car barly drivable ( i do have another sensor which im about to go change but i have my doubts)

check all the earthing points, all seem good.

i recently compltly rewired my emange for a few extra features but had the issue before this and still no luck

soooooo............

 

[Gtstu]

have you tried without the emu to see it its the stock ecu?

 

[AdamB]

Can you log to see if the cam/crank position sensor are putting out a voltage? If they are not operating effectively then it may mean they think the engine is not in motion cutting the injectors?

 

[goldenvtr]

have you tried without the emu to see it its the stock ecu?

ive had the car running without the emu plugged in but becasue of my setup i kinda need the emanage there lol, its drastically overfuels without the emanage in.

also note this issue has only appeard after leaving the GT standing (in a garage) for 18months, then when i can to use it again i had this problem.

 

[goldenvtr]

TPS now changed and the fault is still there

 

[Starletto_Joz]

Thinking out the box, would it have anything to do with your emu jumper settings?

Joz

 

[goldenvtr]

ive checked them over a few times but only to my own knowledge lol my jumper settings are:

1 open
2 open
3 open
4 open
5 open
6 open
7 1-2
8 1-2
9 open
10 open
11 open
12 open
13 open (using knock sensor
14 1-2 (using water temp sensor)
15 2-3
16 open
17 open
18 open
19 1-2 (using to control relays )
20 1-2 (using as a shift light)
21 1-2 yes i have the (E) version and cant find much info on jumper 21

 

[goldenvtr]

hello me its me again

 

[Murray]

ive had the car running without the emu plugged in but becasue of my setup i kinda need the emanage there lol, its drastically overfuels without the emanage in.

also note this issue has only appeard after leaving the GT standing (in a garage) for 18months, then when i can to use it again i had this problem.

Have you tried standard ecu, injectors and stock fuel pressure? Also have you changed the fuel filter and put injector cleaner through the system?

Murray

 

[goldenvtr]

unfortunatly i havnt had stock injectors and stock fuel rail in years lol
fuel pressure does stays consistant during the "cut out" ive swapped the ECU as i have spare so it not the unti it self, i am beging to think its the emanage but it dosnt make sence as i dont know what would be causing the fault :S

ive been looking into a stand alone ecu but cant afford it right now...

 

[Texx]

I'm not sure if the diagnostic TEST mode is available with the EP82 ECU, I've never had a need to check it.
If the TEST mode is available, the ECU will store codes for every fault it identifies, regardless of the fault duration or number of times the fault is detected. Normal fault codes are only stored when the same fault is detect for a certain amount of time or several times within one cycle of the ignition switch, so you could say that the test mode is a more sensitive version of the normal self diagnosis system.

Is there a TE2 terminal in the diagnostic port?


If there is, short TE2 and E1 with the ignition switched OFF.
Start the engine and drive above 6mph (below 6mph the ECU will throw a 42 for lack of speed signal).
Drive the car under the conditions that will cause the fault to appear and see if the CHECK light comes on.
If the CHECK light comes on, pull over and without switching the engine off or removing the short between TE2 and E1, short out TE1 and E1.

Any codes stored during the TEST mode should flash out via the check light in the normal way.

 

[HYBRID]

ive checked them over a few times but only to my own knowledge lol my jumper settings are:

1 open
2 open
3 open
4 open
5 open
6 open
7 1-2
8 1-2
9 open
10 open
11 open
12 open
13 open (using knock sensor
14 1-2 (using water temp sensor)
15 2-3
16 open
17 open
18 open
19 1-2 (using to control relays )
20 1-2 (using as a shift light)
21 1-2 yes i have the (E) version and cant find much info on jumper 21

jumper 14 is incorrect... set it to open... thats a mistake on the maual bro

as for the other problems.. ill have to look into it again...

kon

 

[goldenvtr]

Texx - i didnt try what you jsut said YET but i did pull up code 12 and code 14 from the normal test.... now i know i have a faulty HT king lead bit ive replace that now, ive also now replace the ignitor and high coil pack ( had them spare) so i really dont know whats going on now last thing i need to change is the rotor arm ( the dizzycap is faily new. ive also narrowd it down to it happening at exactly 2000rpm or above. below 2000rpm its 100% fine


kon i remember reading that on the forum somewhere but my temp readings on the emenage are working - i may of set it to open and forgot to write it down form the notes where i got the above settings.

cheers guys keep the ideas come, and any ideas on code 12 and 14? i think ive always had code 12 as the emanage delays the ignition signal slightly but code 14 seems to be ignition realated too..

for ref
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/codes1.png

 

[Texx]

ive also narrowd it down to it happening at exactly 2000rpm or above. below 2000rpm its 100% fine

That could suggest the IDL terminal is being grounded, if not by the TPS then possibly by a wiring issue somewhere. The quickest way to eliminate it as a possible cause would be to either remove the pin from the stock ECU connector or cut the wire as close as you can to the ECU connector leaving enough wire length to connect it back up later.

 

[goldenvtr]

That could suggest the IDL terminal is being grounded, if not by the TPS then possibly by a wiring issue somewhere. The quickest way to eliminate it as a possible cause would be to either remove the pin from the stock ECU connector or cut the wire as close as you can to the ECU connector leaving enough wire length to connect it back up later.

just done the test you refered to a few posts back, first i reset the fault code and confirms there was none, then i did the test you described and im now gettin just code 14 ( no ignition feedback for 8-11 blah blah bolox lol)

really getting down about this its a nightmare to pull away, and for some reason i can still drive flat out (probly due to the short time in each gear as it only takes about 3 seconds per gear to hit redline haha)

so then any more suggestions from this?

i cant really pull out the idl pin at the moment as i need to take the some dash panels apart because i move the stock ecu location

also how do i test the stock idle control valve? as im not convinced its doing anything. it gets voltage both in and out through the connector (about 12.6volts in and out)


another note, unplugging the TPS made no diffrence other than it sounded a bit lumpy

really appreciate you help texx


edit:

now im 90% sure code 14 no IGF signal is the casue of my issue, quite alot of people descusing this issue when changing to coil pack
( please note im still running stock ignition system)

but it no igf will cut the injectors out, so now to narrow down the cause...

 

[Texx]

Code 14 is the ECU saying it hasn't received IGF or confirmation signal from the igniter for the IGT coil trigger command it sent. Now this could be for several reasons, but to simplifying them either the spark isn't jumping the sparkplug gap (no spark from coil, leaking HT lead, fouled spark plugs, damaged dizzy cap or rotor arm etc...) or the IGF signal isn't getting from the igniter to the ECU (dodgy igniter, wiring issue on the IGF signal wire, faulty stock ECU etc...).

As the engine starts and runs without a misfire? we can assume it's not a spark issue, so it's likely to be an IGF signal issue. The igniter has been swapped along with the stock ECU and the fault still occurs, so this narrows things down to the IGF signal wire between the igniter and stock ECU.

Before anything else, you really need to check for continuity, any excessive resistance and any short to ground between the IGF pin in the igniter connector and the IGF pin in the stock ECU connector. Get a meter on the connectors and give the wire harness a good wiggle and twist to see if you can identify a intermittent open circuit on the IGF wire.

You say you've moved the stock ECU to a different location, did that include modifying/extending the wire harness? If so double check the connections you made, if the car has been led up for a while some damp may have allowed corrosion to set into the wire joints, if they were soldered the joints may have dried up.


When the ECU doesn't receive a IGF signal and stores code 14, it'll shut the fuel injectors off to prevent unburnt fuel entering the catalytic converter, when the IGF signal returns the ECU will automatically switch the injectors back on.

 

[goldenvtr]

quote: "When the ECU doesn't receive a IGF signal and stores code 14, it'll shut the fuel injectors off to prevent unburnt fuel entering the catalytic converter, when the IGF signal returns the ECU will automatically switch the injectors back on."
bingo

so im down to checking continuety which i wont gt chance to do now untill after Japfest and i have track time but stuff it im still going out on track

anyway yes the car stars up fine with no issues regarding missfire ect, fault only occurs during driving conditions and if i try to hold over 2000rpm without a gear engaged. the stock ecu wiring is all intact i didnt have to modify anything its mearly mounted slightly diffrent which requires the lower stereo panes to be taken out to gain access. and the emanage is fitted via a field extension harness.

ill check continuity next. does this come from the ignitor or dizzy connector? ill have a look at the wiring diagrams in the mean time

could a slightly cracked HT lead cause this? or would that cause a more constant issue

 

[Texx]

ill check continuity next. does this come from the ignitor or dizzy connector?

The IGF signal comes from the igniter, should be a straight connection with no connectors between the igniter and ECU.

could a slightly cracked HT lead cause this? or would that cause a more constant issue

It's unlikely to cause much more than a misfire unless the king lead between the coil and distributor was damaged and leaking a spark. For an ignition issue to cause code 14 to set, there would have to be no spark occurrence on all 4 cylinders for at least 4 consecutive revolutions of the crankshaft.

 

[goldenvtr]

cool, well i dont think the spark isn't happening as the car would fail to startup or seem to have a more notiable error, so must just be the feedback signal so some reason.

will report back when ive eliminated more.

cheers dude

 

[goldenvtr]

Problem still exsits the igf has full continuety from the ignior to the ecu so the emanage isn't interupting the igf signal atall. And does not seem to he loose or shorted anywhere.

Any more ideas??? My next step is stock injectors remove emanage I suppose...