Gauge problemss video diagram inside help!!!!

Spoonz

Spoonz

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Hey all long time no see figured seemin this is a really good forum someone on here could help me out!!! so i got round to buyin new senders for my oil gauges so i could get them installed to keep an eye on things and now have some wierd problems. Both the oil temp and oil pressure gauges are reading wrong has can be seen by video below



Cause i used black wires for both gauges i didnt know if i had them round the wrong way so done 2 videos with the sender wires in each gauge



Vid 1





Vid 2





This is how i have them wired up and the boost gauge works fine btw
Gauges.jpg





Now could be i need gauges has they are a few years old or is it the wiring?
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
switched live?

@ Spoonz: i would imagine the oil senders (pressure & temp) also need a (switched) live..? most boost gauges+senders i've seen come with this wiring configuration. i could be wrong though since i don't know what gauges those are.. :|
 
Spoonz

Spoonz

Member +
Where can I get the switch from and how does it exactly work? I have seen diagrams but wasn't to sure what they where for
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
switched live

@ Spoonz: no mate. a switched live = it is only energized when your key is on the 'ON' position, so that it's not constantly live/energized even when the engine is off and the key out..
 
Last edited:
Spoonz

Spoonz

Member +
spacecraft said:
@ Spoonz: no mate. a switched live = it is only energized when your key is on the 'ON' position, so that it's not constantly live/energized even when the engine is off and the key out..
Click to expand...

Ok so how should they be wiered then? The diagrams they sent just said earth and signal like above?
 
glanzanut

glanzanut

Lifer
you have maybe taken a constant live from the stereo as well mate.
you already have a constant live from the battery, so using an electrical tester find the switched ignition live at the stereo.
the constant and switched are normally yellow and red.
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
info on gauges

i'd be more concerned with finding out as much about the gauges as i can.. first. did they not come with any more details in the wiring diagrams..? & what gauges are they..? maybe someone on here has had success in wiring them.
 
Spoonz

Spoonz

Member +
They are autogauge performance meter gauges they where brought from a friend and I believe they are wierd right from what I seen on the internet, so should I try gettin a live to power the gauges from somewhere else? Or isit something else? The only live for the battery is goin to the boost sensor and that gauge works fine
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
previous installation

@ Spoonz: the friend you bought the gauges from, did s/he have them wired up in his/her car and were they working properly then..?
 
Spoonz

Spoonz

Member +
Yes the last time I seen them in there car they was working then they got defis real cheap so theu swapped them over does anyone see anything wrong with the wriring or have the gauges just given up
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
generic wiring

@ Spoonz: a slight problem i noticed with your wiring schematic is that there is no grounding to the gauges, i.e., they are not earthed. this could be your problem, unless it was an oversight when you were preparing the diagram..?

to help you understand how gauges work, they use a small current from the sensor/sender that needs to be amplified in order to make any usable reading to the gauge, so this needs either the gauge or the sender to be energized with the 12v feed. despite this, most gauge systems can run on as little as 5v. this all depends on the gauge vendor. also, all components must be earthed. in most cases, the senders/sensors on the engine block get their earthing directly from the block and may not have a separate grounding line. as for the switched live feed, this can be picked from anywhere on the wiring harness within the car (stereo harness, ignition harness, lighting harness, fuse box etc), just ensure that they are switched when the key is on 'ON' and not 'ACC'. the 'ON' position assumes the engine is running and thus does not keep your gauges on unnecessarily when say you are just parked and listening to your stereo .. :D

i've done a sample schematic here of generic wiring for most after-market gauges. look at the gauge connectors on your gauges and try make sense of them from this diagram. let us know how you get along with this..
cheers..
 
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Spoonz

Spoonz

Member +
spacecraft said:
@ Spoonz: a slight problem i noticed with your wiring schematic is that there is no grounding to the gauges, i.e., they are not earthed. this could be your problem, unless it was an oversight when you were preparing the diagram..?

to help you understand how gauges work, they use a small current from the sensor/sender that needs to be amplified in order to make any usable reading to the gauge, so this needs either the gauge or the sender to be energized with the 12v feed. despite this, most gauge systems can run on as little as 5v. this all depends on the gauge vendor. also, all components must be earthed. in most cases, the senders/sensors on the engine block get their earthing directly from the block and may not have a separate grounding line. as for the switched live feed, this can be picked from anywhere on the wiring harness within the car (stereo harness, ignition harness, lighting harness, fuse box etc), just ensure that they are switched when the key is on 'ON' and not 'ACC'. the 'ON' position assumes the engine is running and thus does not keep your gauges on unnecessarily when say you are just parked and listening to your stereo .. :D

i've done a sample schematic here of generic wiring for most after-market gauges. look at the gauge connectors on your gauges and try make sense of them from this diagram. let us know how you get along with this..
cheers..
Click to expand...
#

cheers for the diagram mate yea my gauges are earthed to the battery missed that bit out.

So my gauges have a live to the stereo so there come on and of with the key? that correct?
The gauges are earthed o the battery has this is the best possible earth imo

the boost pressure (which works perfect)
Live to battery
earth to battery

Oil pressure (not working correct)
Earth to battery
Signal to gauge
Dose it need to have a live like in your diagram?
this is the sender http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370528001847&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

Oil Temp (sorta working but needle moves wen reving)
Earth to battery from bottom of sensor has the diagram they sent said
Signal from top of sensor has there diagram said
Does this neeed an live aswell then and wont it short out with one?
This is the semsor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0c073e5a
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
The oil temp is wired correctly, live and neg to gauge, sender wire to the top of the sender. My guess is is picking up "noise" from the engine somewhere on route to the gauge, try running the wire in a different path or fit a screened wire to prevent it.

The oil pressure sender needs a live connected to it where you have a neg I think.
 
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