High compression 4e?

[sx_turbo]

Not a problem, you would have been quite correct about the early MS1

In all honesty wiring in an aftermarket ECU isn't NEARLY as difficult as some might lead you to believe. If you've got a good head on your shoulders and access to good resources (such as the knowledge on this site) then it's very possible to install yourself. Also very possible to get a good enough road tune together yourself with some basic training and a wideband O2 sensor, certainly good enough to drive safely to the dyno. I couldn't comment on what things cost over there but 3.5k does seem mighty excessive. Buy the ECU, install it yourself and then book in for a few hours with a tuner on the dyno - I imagine it would be a great deal more affordable! Plus you get to learn a great deal about how it all works in the process.

As an auto electrician of mine said the other day, wiring doesn't just break unless somebody goes messing about with it. This is obviously not true for much older cars, they can do all sorts of bizarre things! If you can vouch for the originality of your loom and it all works as it should then there is no reason to go rewiring the whole engine bay.

the 3.5k did iclude also the custom parts that needed making and fitting, like the crankshaft sensor and pickup assembly, and custom ignition leads would need to be made also to be compatible with the starlet.

but as you can see it was a lot of money and needless to say i didnt go for it lol

 

[Ted]

Listen to what exactly? You never mentioned ANYTHING along those lines. I can't listen to what you don't say.

Quite aside from the fact that you never mentioned anything of the sort, what on earth has that got to do with anything? a 'forged' engine isn't always, nor should it be lower compression than the stock item.

clarkytrd, you can think of static cr a little bit like turbo sizing, it's a compromise between response and power potential. A low cr engine will have less likelihood of detonation or knock under very high boost levels, the major con is off boost performance will be worse. Just like with turbo selection, you want to select the smallest (or in this case, highest) turbo or cr that will allow you to obtain your goals while still keeping as much response/economy as possible. The stock cr is a great compromise and with stronger pistons (forged units) is capable of PLENTY of boost on pump fuel.

the guy who started this thread asked about running a td04 and wanted information for his engine buider about a forged build. he has said publically he wanted to forge his engine in other threads so why wouldnt i assume this was about forged engine compression? most people over here run 1.2 to 2mm headgaskets. if they do it differently over your way let us all know about it.

youre clearly a knowledgeable chap fatman, just come over a bit arrogant for me mate.

 

[Fatman]

the guy who started this thread asked about running a td04 and wanted information for his engine buider about a forged build. he has said publically he wanted to forge his engine in other threads so why wouldnt i assume this was about forged engine compression? most people over here run 1.2 to 2mm headgaskets. if they do it differently over your way let us all know about it.

youre clearly a knowledgeable chap fatman, just come over a bit arrogant for me mate.

I do apologise if that's the way I'm coming across, hurriedly written posts probably aren't the best for giving an accurate impression - I'm here to learn as much as help where I can.

Clearly I missed out on half the conversation, I was purely going off what was posted in this thread which makes your original post hard to understand, apologies for any offence caused.

Nothing wrong with going for a proven multi layer steel gasket, I believe these are almost all 1.2mm minimum due to the construction. Personally I would go for pistons designed to retain the stock compression ratio and skim the head to try and keep the compression on par or slightly higher than standard.

 

[dan_ep82]

excellent thread guys, some very good info inputted from everyone.

 

[Ted]

I do apologise if that's the way I'm coming across, hurriedly written posts probably aren't the best for giving an accurate impression - I'm here to learn as much as help where I can.

Clearly I missed out on half the conversation, I was purely going off what was posted in this thread which makes your original post hard to understand, apologies for any offence caused.

Nothing wrong with going for a proven multi layer steel gasket, I believe these are almost all 1.2mm minimum due to the construction. Personally I would go for pistons designed to retain the stock compression ratio and skim the head to try and keep the compression on par or slightly higher than standard.

no worries, do you guys not use thick headgaskets over there then?

 

[Fatman]

Most of the larger power builds I've seen use a standard item but modify the head to suit larger ARP headstuds. Only reason the stock one blows is from inadequate clamp/stretch bolts.

 

[J25GTi]

Hey guys,

Time to revive this thread from the grave!

Right, ive decided on going higher compression ratio, for now, on a stock 4e with a ct9 at first (just until i get my last few bits for my tdo4. need a downpipe oil and water lines and a wastegate)

Ive got a full 5efhe head, (inc cams, will this work with a 4 e engine?) And was going to port and polish it (heavily ported and polished) with a TRD 0.6HG, adjustable cam pulleys.

Set uip for now on a EMB (i hhave one lying around while i am sorting out the rest of the bits for my full project as its going to be done very much in stages)

What would be the most boost i should be running? And also any reccomendations? Im going for a high response route, because i beleive in the area i live i will be far quicker with less boost and more response than high boost less response...

cheers guys