how to rotate ct9 housing + weld wastegate??

Wel lads will be rotating my tongs hybrid (for short route) at sum stage and welding waste gate shut. what are the turbo like to do any tips or how to guides up? Do I just put a spot weld on it or do I weld it all round? I heard about brackets to hold them shut as well? If anyone has any tips or what to look at for when doin it would be great.
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Theres a few ways to weld the wastegate shut -

1. tack weld on the gate itself to hold it shut
2. fully weld all the way round the gate
3. tack the actutor arm to the side of the turbo (youll need a decent blob of weld or you can tack in plate as there is about a 10/20mm gap between the arm and turbo ). That way if you decide to sell it can easily be ground off and the turbo reused

Heres a link to some info regarding rotating the CT9

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?99095-Rotating-CT9-turbo

:)

Cheers
 
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Thanks lad and my waste gate has tiny crack in it should I weld the crack as well or if I just used a bracket would some boost leak out tru the crack
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Thanks lad and my waste gate has tiny crack in it should I weld the crack as well or if I just used a bracket would some boost leak out tru the crack

depends on the severity of the crack.......if its bad enough it has the potential to leak.

Try a braket and see what happens.

If you have access to a welder you'd be better off doing as weejohn said

:)
 
Yeah lads it's only the tinyest of cracks Il try hit them both with same line of weld and if I wanted after I could clean weld off with a die grinder if someone wanted to use internal waste gate if I was to sell it.
Would you get to turn the turbo housing worth out split in it
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Whilst your welders out, instead of rotating your turbo - why dont you just whip off you hot pipe and flip it downwards?



Just modify it a little by cutting along the weld and turning the bend outwards and reweld it ready for the silicone hoses? also dont forget to turn the BOV pipe too



will save you A LOT of ballache trying to rotate the turbo.

Modifying that pipe will take you less than half hour if you have a welder and an angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc

Mark
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
How did you go with this mad 4 tar tobin?

Im installing a front mount on my ct9 and did what I said above.....some pics below as a guide for you if you still need it :)

So I got the standard hot pipe and cut it where the changes needed to be



Then laid it out roughly on the bench



then welded it together



Then gave it a grind back cuz my Argon bottle ran out so switch to flux core wire


finished and painted item



might need to switch to a smaller radiator or move it over an inch or two

will be plumbed in once my pipes and coolers comes :)

cheers
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
ha ha ha....its funny what people notice.......

we are aloud to wears shorts to work but have to wear high vis socks.....Ive got long shorts on giving the illusion of high socks (leave my knee high socks alone)

:)
 

Rev

Member +
Whilst your welders out, instead of rotating your turbo - why dont you just whip off you hot pipe and flip it downwards?

I think rotating the turbo is to let you have shorter run and keep 'c' shaped flow more easily.
I have read you have to keep a 'c' shape to the pipe so the air direction is maintained creating an 's' shape reverses the flow of the air in the pipe and can slow it down or create turbulance.

Having said that the velocity here is very high and the 's' very short and turbulance may aid temperature transfer so not sure of the net situation so be interested in the results.
 
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I rotated turbo with out splitting it. It's a tongs ct9 must not have location pins in it. I was looking at d crack it's cracked between the exhaust housing and the boost flap will it leak boost into exhaust chamber when I weld the penny shut or will it make any difference?
 
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