Manual boost controllers...

[Basketti]

is it good to have one with a hks actuator? or do u guys just have one on the standard actuator?

 

[Dave.]

standard actuator isn't very strong, so a his actuator is probably a good mod to prevent the boost pressure dropping off at the top end!

Dave

 

[Basketti]

Dont want to hijak ur thread but i was wondering if you get a hks actuator and have a manual boost controller will that stop boost creep issues? I want to relocate the filter to the front but dont want creep.

 

[Rory]

Dont want to hijak ur thread but i was wondering if you get a hks actuator and have a manual boost controller will that stop boost creep issues? I want to relocate the filter to the front but dont want creep.

No.
Read through Toby's topic on Boost Creep, that will answer all your problems.

 

[fastglanza]

turbosmart all the way... these devices are best kept as close to the actuator and compressor housing i.e avoiding those boost tees which incur long hoses. this is just for response and avoidance of boost creep etc

but the in car ones seem to work fine tho and it wud be basically an ebc! with none of the headache

 

[Ady]

but the in car ones seem to work fine tho and it wud be basically an ebc! with none of the headache

and without the massive price tag!

so... am i right in assuming a manual controller will do the exact same thing as an electronic one? i was always under the impression that an electronic controller was better because it keeps the wastegate closed untill full boost is actually reached.

can a manual boost controller keep the wastegate closed, and then open at the desired boost level?

 

[TurboDave]

The in car MBC's are not as good as a good well set up EBC no. One of the reasons and the reason why I am not running an in car MBC is the pipe length which needs to be fed into the car from the actuator/compressor discharge.

The boost pressure comes all the way from the compressor discharge into the car through the piping and then hits the spring device in the boost controller when the boost pressure overcomes the pre-set spring rate it allows the boost pressure past. Then the boost pressure has to travel all the way through the feet of pipe until it reaches the actuator even though the desired boost pressure has been reached already. This means that they can cause boost spiking and cause boost control problems.

I believe MBC's are good but the pipe going to them from the compressor discharge and going back to the actuator needs to be as short as possible for best boost control.

 

[TurboDave]

Carrying on,

The actuator is pre-set to a desired boost level say 10psi. The boost controller has a spring device inside and the spring has been set to 15psi.

When you start to create boost if the actuator does not have enough tension on it the sudden increase in boost pressure can blow the wastegate flap open slightly. The turbo will still create the desired boost but slower because the wastegate flap may be slightly open and you wont get stable boost.

Assuming the actuator has enough tension the wastegate flap will not blow open and the boost pressure will travel through the piping to the boost controller. Until the 15psi is reached in the boost controller no boost pressure will travel from the boost controller to the actuator this will keep the wastegate fully closed, when the spring is overcome by the 15psi the boost pressure will travel to the actuator and open the wastegate.

 

[Adam_Glanza]

imo ebc's are better when they are setup correctly like dave has said, but not everybody really needs all the fancy functions!

you can set up different gear boost and boost coming in at a desired rpm etc.

theyve got some mad features. ive got the greddy e-01 and its a great boost controller, and also has 4 different boost gauges built into it! you can adjust the boost at a press off a button so its very easy

 

[Ady]

Carrying on,

The actuator is pre-set to a desired boost level say 10psi. The boost controller has a spring device inside and the spring has been set to 15psi.

When you start to create boost if the actuator does not have enough tension on it the sudden increase in boost pressure can blow the wastegate flap open slightly. The turbo will still create the desired boost but slower because the wastegate flap may be slightly open and you wont get stable boost.

Assuming the actuator has enough tension the wastegate flap will not blow open and the boost pressure will travel through the piping to the boost controller. Until the 15psi is reached in the boost controller no boost pressure will travel from the boost controller to the actuator this will keep the wastegate fully closed, when the spring is overcome by the 15psi the boost pressure will travel to the actuator and open the wastegate.

Ah, thanks for that, i always thought MBCs were just tacky things used to turn boost up!

With that information i will look into buying one then, as my boost comes in rather lazy.

Thanks for that

 

[Dave.]

Cheers for all the info! Its all sorted and paid for now Some great info there too Turbodave, thanks mate

Dave

 

[Deano]

I got a turbosmart boost tee when I get my hks actuator would that be able to be used in conjunction with the boost tee? Would I still need the boost tee?

 

[GT Tercel]

Dave sorry for hi-jacking your thread.

Can anyone fit a simple boost controller or is it best left to someone who knows what they're doing?

This is how I have mines hooked up:

 

[joshy23]

i need major help, i tried installin a racepro MBC in, but even with it turned down, it boost's pass factory level - 8psi. I tried swaping the inlet/outlet's around, and still the same thing. I follwed the diagram above...so i dont know whats going on...anyone?