People thinking of going 5e Basic Info inside


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Guys , Girls , Sheeps, Cats, Hamsters, Dogs and all alike thinking of going 5e but are not too sure on what you need and what to do.

Below is a basic KrissyB guide. Yes I know it's been covered before but I thought I'd do a more basic version as the other gets easily lost and dissapears through the mountains of replies etc etc.

Firstly and Foremost get yourself a badass 5e, now the 5e does have advantages but also disadvantages.

Yes you will get slightly more power and which ever turbo you have will spool earlier also giving you the opportunity to use a larger more fancy setup.

However the 5e does not particularly rev high and doesn't like to be revved hard with power usually dropping off alot earlier than in a 4e.

A more technically qualified TGTT'er could explain but it's to do with the 5e not being quite square in terms of Bore/ Stroke.


When removing your 4e there are a numerous amount of things that you will need to aquire to fit on the 5e.

1. SUMP: The 4e sump has the oil return which is paramount obviously;)

2. OIL PICK UP/ STRAINER: Needs to be used when using the 4e sump as its a different length to the 5e one do not mix and match these:eek::slap:. 4e with 4e !!!!!

3. Oil Feed/ Oil filter Plate: Unbolt this from the 4e as it then prevents finding a different oil feed location and making up custom lines. You need to remove the large bolt from the 5e block drill and tap the 5e then fit the 4e one.

4. 4e or 5e Cylinder Head : This has been covered about a million times and now a million and one times. Both can be used here guys it's not really an Issue there is a water way in the 4e head on the Inlet side but thats blocked off by the Manifold and the Gasket. On the 5e its not there at all.

5. 5e Flywheel: The 5e Flywheel needs to be used as the 4e has a different Crank bolt pattern. However Aasco sell 5e Flywheels to fit 4e clutches as they are 212mm as opposed too 200mm on the 5e, as we all know 12mm can make all the difference:p. These Aasco flywheels are uber light and awesome bits of kit.

6. 4e Rocker cover, ensure you rob this as it has the PCV.


The 5e Pistons are the same size as 4e but its the Rods that are different so when going fully forged as many of you do , ensure you get the correct combo guys.:rockon:

Then also 5e bearings there are a few companies that supply these, Toga, Top line, ACL, Toyota etc etc. Don't forget your thrust washers also 4e ad 5e are different so beware.

A fully forged 5e with bottom end rebuild kits usually range from £1000 upwards, I'd personally use Ricky@japmad he gave me super discount. I bought the following but you guys don't have to do the same.

74.5mm Wosner Pistons
5e Scat H beam Rods and ARP Bolts
Bottom end rebuild kit (Seals, Gaskets everything to renew bottom end)
Cylinder Head rebuild kit ( Everything to renew head)
5e Cam belt Kit
Oil filters
Water pump
Oil pump ( Ensure you pump has the seal in it or in the block)
Oil filters
Oil pressure switch
OEM Thrust washers
Top line big end bearings
Top line main bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Headbolts
OEM Locating Dowels

That should sort you out for the time being in regards to the bottom end guys.

You need to ensure that your 5e is correctly rebored , honed and knotched to accept the Rods/ Pistons.

Also your crank reground if need be and bearing purchased to suit.

Any competent engine builder/ machinist will do this for you and may advice on fully balancing the bottom end depending on your budget and or application.


When timing up your engine whack it on the 4e marks this has been done many times and works a treat AZE_B used thisd method and got another 50ft/lbs of torque and loads more bhp:rockon::rockon::rockon:.

The easiest and most common thing to do is to remove the valve give it a damn good clean and then remove the circlip and fit a washer pushing the spring furthur down and increasing the Oil pressure. Obviously to much pressure is not good but alot of well built 5e's have failed due to low pressure especially on Idle and also on full chat higher in the rev range.

Guys this is just a basic guide to get you started and help its not a complex giude once I have some more time i'll include Pictures and the way in which AZE, GAZ and other 5e people including myself have done it. On start up im eeing 6.5 bars worth of Oil presure droppng off to 5 bar @ about 1500rpm when cold on first start up.


Just another little pointer here and something which in normally overlooked as we all get nervous when its nearly start time. Ensure that everything has been checked and double checked. Remove the king leadand give her at least 5-7 cranks too get some oil around the system. Then plug her back in and start her. Alternatively remove the EFI fuse and do it like this. Observe the Oil pressure light carefully and be sure it goes out, also don't worry about new smells and burning if it's all new funny smells will be present.


5E head being used as it has no water way gasket and is less to go wrong .

Bottom end and Oil pressure releif valve here Guys, before we modified it

Rods and Pistons along with Bolts

:drive::drive::drive: Happy driving x
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Nice mate, a good detailed list of whats needed for going forged 5e without being to complicated :homer:

Im sure this will benifit many and should be a sticky :D

Rep for you :rockon:


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will get some pictures aswell and update the thread as soon as possible for you guys.

With a walk through guide of building the 5e.

Hope this helps


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some rep coming your way some really good simple info there krissy fair play! :)
any other questions just email myself, GAZ or AZE all of us will be more than happy to help if we dont know the answer we will find out for you.

Cheers mate


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just one thing kris, best to take out the efi fuse instead of taking the king lead off, stop fuel being sprayed into the cylinders on priming :)


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Hey KrissyB

My mechanic had fitted a washer in the oil intake and now my dipstick shows alot more oil than it should like way over. Is this how it is supposed to be or is the washer used to thick. Because of this after sitting for a while all the oil seeps down and the 1st 3 seconds of start is metal to metal in the cylinder head.

Is this normal ?? :confused: . can you give the dimensions of the right sized washer to use. or up load a few of yours if you have any. Please


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Nice pice of text you made.

as i'm reading it and getting trough the list my engine builder used we are about the same.
the only thing is, my engine builder hammered on using higher pre load valve spring force to reduce change of burning valves(big neg; verhy hard to use other cams).


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yeah we have used cruise valve springs and speedvision one's in all our engines we have done soo far, the standard springs are pretty poor esp if your planning on revving her higher than the stock rev limit

here is a couple more pics from my build showing the oil filter housing mod, in which you tap out 6mm holes to hold the housing on, seen a few engine without this done, and have had no problem, BUT if toyota thought that there not needed they would not of done it, also i always like to see the engine bay and engine block and head to have a nice coat of paint on it to freshen it up abit

i used 3 allen head bolts to hold the housing on shown here

then while the engine and everything is out you gotta ask yourself it is gonna be a everyday car as then you could go mad a get rid of the PS strip the back out cage it etc, also take all the front bumper lights and gicve it a good clean and paint

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looks cool would help me alot when its my turn to go 5e(very soon)

why did you drill tap dye them 3 6mm holes ?

is it neccessary?