Running in Tips

[Elaine]

Well this seems to be the big one for a lot of you that have new forged engines.

I hit the 1000 mile mark yesterday and so far so good lol. I went back to my tuner for him to double check everything and change over to 10/50

I would really like to know how you/your tuner have decided to run your engine in.

What revs do you use for how many miles what oil you use how often is it being changed during the “run in” period

I think this information could be really helpful and informative so please lets not debate over what is the right or wrong way as everyone is different.

Look forwards to people’s comments

Thanks E

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

Start engine first time, 10w50 mineral, don't just leave car running on idle for an hour do 5 miles around the block with a good bit of boost (doesn't mean high revs) to flush metal deposits. Stop, change oil over use same again and change filter.

Do 100 miles, same again, change oil over use same oil again and change filter.

Do another 400 miles, same again, change oil over use same again or you could go for a 10w 40 semi but we personally stick with mineral at the point and change filter.

Do another 500 miles, so 1000 total, change to your preferred oil, change filter and off you go.

Rev wise just don't go mad for the first 500 but at the same time don't pussy foot around you need to bed the engine in. If you don't go past 2k for 1000 miles and then duddenly pull a 7k launch the engine won't know what hit it It's important to bed the rings in so you need to give it some good boost occasionally, this doesn't mean you have to pull 7k either you can use full boost even at 3k depending on turbo. It will differ, you can run an engine in on the dyno in literallly an hour just this isn't suitable for most customers as it adds more expense but can be done quite easily.


Everyone will have different methods, this is what we do and our forged engines are going strong after 2 years with no burning of oil with all the abuse that can be thrown at them, some in excess of 300hp so it works for us

T

 

[sx_turbo]

use 10w40 mineral oil, do 100 miles and change filter. take engine upto 3000 revs.

taking the engine up to 3500 revs

do 400 miles change oil and filter

start using revs and boost dont go to 7k but 5.5k is good

do that for 500 miles.

change oil and filter and put some decent 5w40 fully synthetic in.

good to go.

i made 157bhp@fly and 170lb/ft torque, @ 1bar, with rx7 tmic standard manifold and stock catalytic converter with this method.

and car was running well for a year with this before it got written off

 

[Rory]

I done mine the brutal way.
Still strong yet after 13/14k miles.

 

[tom_hunt]

Start engine first time, 10w50 mineral, don't just leave car running on idle for an hour do 5 miles around the block with a good bit of boost (doesn't mean high revs) to flush all the metal deposits. Stop, change oil over use same again and change filter.

Do 100 miles, same again, change oil over use same oil again and change filter.

Do another 500 miles, same again, change oil over use same again or you could go for a 10w 40 semi but we personally stick with mineral at the point and change filter.

Do another 500 miles, so 1000 total, change to your preferred oil, change filter and off you go.

Rev wise just don't go mad for the first 500 but at the same time don't pussy foot around you need to bed the engine in. If you don't go past 2k for 1000 miles and then duddenly pull a 7k launch the engine won't know what hit it It's important to bed the rings in so you need to give it some good boost occasionally, this doesn't mean you have to pull 7k either you can use full boost even at 3k depending on turbo. It will differ, you can run an engine in on the dyno in literallly an hour just this isn't suitable for most customers as it adds more expense but can be done quite easily.


Everyone will have different methods, this is what we do and our forged engines are going strong after 2 years with no burning of oil with all the abuse that can be thrown at them, some in excess of 300hp so it works for us

T

Thats what I did. My engine seems totally fine! No problems what so ever.


Tom

 

[dantheman]

pretty much how toby says, but i use 10w40 mineral, the more oil changes the better.. also when running in its a good idea to let it over run ie leave it in gear and let the engine slow you down by going through the gears, helps the rings bed in, also do the occasional hill climb in a low gear ie 4th, helps things bed in also..

the worst thing you can do is drive it like an absolute quere ie. not reving or boostin it..

running an engine in 'the hard way' from the word go is abit hit and miss due to every engine being different, tolerences etc.. wouldnt recomend this way myself but everyone has their own method

 

[weakboy2]

Yeah run it up with cheap oil, let it warm up, check for leaks. take for a normal drive.

Change oil to semi 10/40. Map it.

Do lots of deceleration runs from high revs to suck the rings out into the bores whilst this is going on and job done

Put decent oil in after 500 -1000 miles

 

[weakboy2]

if everything is done right though, its only the rings that need to bed in.

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

also when running in its a good idea to let it over run ie leave it in gear and let the engine slow you down by going through the gears, helps the rings bed in, also do the occasional hill climb in a low gear ie 4th, helps things bed in also..

Spot on Dan To add to that don't sit on motorways or at the same constant speed for extended periods of times it's needs lots of variation.

T

 

[10 ft man]

so alot of oil and oil filters then lol

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

You got it! :haha:

For the first 500 miles you only need to use cheap mineral oil to make sure everything gets a nice thick coating, we use mineral all the way up to 1000 personally but others will differ slightly

 

[GT_Neil]

Got this off another forum a while ago... can't say i read it really though...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

Yeah that is a very controversial site I remember we had a huge huge thead about it that Gee made, not what we would recommend personally but I know some have used this method before

T

 

[Rory]

Got this off another forum a while ago... can't say i read it really though...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Its the way i done mine.
But as everyone is diffirent, then its 6 n 2 3's

 

[dantheman]

its also worth mentioning to those who dont know, the reason why mineral oil is used in the running in process is that it doesnt have the 'anti friction' properties that synthetic oil has. synthetic oil is very slippery and tends to be thinner than mineral. obviously once your engine is run in you will want to prevent friction so you will want to use synthetic, but whilst running in you want to allow the rings to bed in properly, aswell as the crank bearings..

also like said above the more oil changes the better, remember all that friction and bedding in is ganna leave particles of metal in your oil, so the more often you change the oil and filter the better it will be for your nice new engine

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

Good info Dan, worth stickying this mods for future reference

T

 

[GTwayne]

Done mine pretty much the same as Toby mentioned.

 

[Gee]

Its the way i done mine.
But as everyone is diffirent, then its 6 n 2 3's

x2, done here.

Autofixed did all their Evo's more or less the same way too.

 

[Elaine]

Great response thanks for everyone’s input. It’s good to see what methods are used.

 

[Dane_Bristol]

Something that i will have to follow soon Elaine you are finished your run in i gotta start all over again for the 3rd Time lol This time it wil be once and fore all lol !