Solid Clutch disc + Lightend Flywheel Q's

TO82

Member +
Firstly has anyone got any experience of running a Solid unsprung clutch disc on a EP? Ive got a 5 Puk Solid disc, and was just wondering if its likely to cause damage to the box, or make it undriveable in traffic, gona be used with a TRD/Exedy Paddle Clutch cover.

Next anyone know the step on a lightened flywheel, from the face which the clutch cover sits against, to the friction face (where the flywheel meets the clutch disc) Is it usually 0.5mm

Rep for any help,

Cheers :)
 
ive got a 4 plate act unsprung mate will work fine mate they wudent design it if its gonna damage your box mate long as you aint gonna be lifting that clutch up at redline your be fine, reason ive going for unsprung is because i managed to push the springs out the last one with only 1700 miles and 1000 of that just wearing it in lol

what make dude ?
 

TO82

Member +
How do you find the driveability compared to the sprung disc? Its a CAP Clutch disc, ive read that the more Pucks the smoother it should be so hopefully will be ok. Im not gonna be running too much power anyway around 200hp i guess.
 
its always nice to know the clutch you have can handle more then 200 incase you want to increase the power of your starlet in future, however 200 bhp i wouldent get a unsprung one unless your running more then 300 mate but the drive is pretty eveil got to be a little skilled when it comes to the lights lol, main reason i got this is for pod and launch control really!! get a Exedy Ceramettalic Paddle Clutch tm do them on here wicked bit of kit dave runs one in his wel over 400bhp they your worrys are over its sprung aswel,

i personally dont belive in the amount of pucks youve got the smoother my last one was a 6 puck, ive had few 4 pucks in the passed on other cars and ive driven my mates with a 3 puck and no difference to me its all to do with the amount of heat it can take less pucks i belive can stand more heat hope this helps
 

TO82

Member +
Ye cheers for the help got a exedy in at the moment and am just going to fit the cap disc see how i get on.

Anyone got any info on the lightened flywheel, anyone got one waiting to be fit that they could measure for me? Also anyone know the thickness of the original exedy paddle clutch disc?
 
when they lighten them mate they dont make them thinner like by loads they take very little off and they normally drill metal from the back not the surface of the flywheel matey have a look at the back of yours but down here places will do it for 50 quid hope this helps, im running a ali asseo one in my 5e light as chips
 

TO82

Member +
ive got a lightened flywheel which i got faced but now its pretty much inline with the face the clutch cover bolts to so need the edge machining so there's a step on the flywheel, as last time i put it in, the clutch slipped but with the stock flywheel it held orite, but the clutch disc is on its last legs.
 
fuck me thats alot to have taken off not much should be removed from the front its the lip from the back that most places normaly take off as the reason the bolts for the fly wheel sit is is the clutch springs on the clutch plate spin in there, will have to looked closly as when them plates start to wear on the clutch god them springs are gonna get close to them bolts and last thing you want is when you press the clutch down it grinds or doesent depress
 

350ep70gr

Member +
If i get it right you need to resurface your oem flywheel for fiting a new clutch. If this is the case you need to remove same material thickness from the surface that disc comes to contact and exactly same amount at the surrounding area where the pressure plate bolts on. So both surface will be equal machined.
If you resurface only the disc area without the outer area your clutch will loose a percent of clamping force and may slipping on load. Or may slip when your disc will be half wear out after a year or so.
The more you machine the outer side of the flywheel the more you increase the clamping force of the pressure plate but if you past a limit then things change rapidly.
The best roule is to be the same machining to maintain the same characteristics. For example if you reduce disc contact area by 1mm then you need to reduce pressure plate contact area by 1 mm or if you dont want to do that you can reduce the pressure plate contac area on the pressure plate side. (wich isnt very safe..but people around do it).
Then you need to balance the total assemply and you are good to go!

Chris
 
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