Timing issue [full retarded just to get 10 deg]

[tiksie]

[EDIT: Car is EP82 with a 5E swap running a 4EFTE head]

Hey guys,

I've searched around and couldn't really find any information regarding my issue.

My car is running like shite (Getting about 260km from a tank on 98 which is about 160 miles per tank which is ridiuclous).

Car is running crazy rich.

Got a e-manage blue in it which was apparently tuned for a TD04 (running a TF035 now) but it wasn't so bad before.

I was having issues with the car stuttering above 10psi, so I changed my spark plugs and adjusted my timing to get 10deg with the diagnosis port shorted at roughly 750RPM after closing the throttle adjusting screw all the way in.

Now my car doesn't hesitate above 10psi of boost but it's running horrible and stupid rich.

This is what my dizzy looks like when the car is set at 10deg:

Motor was only rebuilt about 20,000km's ago and all the marks line up with the cams/oil pump etc

Anyone have any idea of why it would need to be at full retard for it to get to this point ? If I put the distributor in the middle it will be at about 25-30 degrees of advance.

 

[elison]

You have a timing issue. Make sure and double check if everything is lined up correctly.

 

[dac69er]

take the emanage off and start from a basic setup. if you get it running right, then its an issue with the emanage.

 

[triple j]

Yeah, try get connected to e manage and wipe the maps, the timing map must have serious advance low down, an god no's what its like the rest of the way.

 

[tiksie]

Thanks guys, will check it out tomorow

 

[weeJohn]

Did you short out T1 and E1 in the diagnostic port when setting the base timing? The ECU also needs to see the TPS is in the throttle closed position to go into diagnostic mode for base timing setting, you could link out the TPS at the plug with a bit of wire to rule this out.

 

[tiksie]

Did you short out T1 and E1 in the diagnostic port when setting the base timing? The ECU also needs to see the TPS is in the throttle closed position to go into diagnostic mode for base timing setting, you could link out the TPS at the plug with a bit of wire to rule this out.

Yeah, when I bridge the T1 and E1 the idle increases by about 200-300RPM.

I've wiped the maps aswell and it's still the same thing.

Is it possible to pull out the distributor and reinstall it at a more advanced point so I can pull it down even more ?

 

[Fez]

Did you short out T1 and E1 in the diagnostic port when setting the base timing? The ECU also needs to see the TPS is in the throttle closed position to go into diagnostic mode for base timing setting, you could link out the TPS at the plug with a bit of wire to rule this out.

weeJohn, would removing the TPS plug work?

 

[Skalabala]

Also if your cam timing is out then your distributor will be off.
Not sure how the emanage works but I am sure you can adjust the teeth trailing on it?

 

[weeJohn]

weeJohn, would removing the TPS plug work?

No, that would show the ecu that the throttle is slightly open, you want it to see it is closed when setting the timing.

 

[tiksie]

Also if your cam timing is out then your distributor will be off.
Not sure how the emanage works but I am sure you can adjust the teeth trailing on it?

Something I will look into again as my emanage has timing/injector harness aswell! Thanks for that

 

[5e colin]

i know this may sound stupid but is there a timing adjuster on the light itselve the setting might be of like when u set it to 10 it will show 0 tdc on the block etc etc

u might be using the light wrong i did 1s before with a friends timing light i borrowed i was well embarrassed

 

[spuddy]

i know this may sound stupid but is there a timing adjuster on the light itselve the setting might be of like when u set it to 10 it will show 0 tdc on the block etc etc

u might be using the light wrong i did 1s before with a friends timing light i borrowed i was well embarrassed

Fair point that, seen it happen before.

Have u done the timing belt recently or had the cams out?

 

[tiksie]

No @ timing belt or cams.

And no @ timing light. It's not those adjustable ones.

Will report back once I check out the ECU again!

 

[weeJohn]

Might actually be worth checking the crank pulley (with the timing marks) is not worn inside and the pulley is not sitting tightly on the key in the crank. Mine worked loose and it caused the pulley keyway to wear a lot wider than the key, allowing it to rotate on the crankshaft. If its not aligned there then that could be throwing your reading out when setting the timing.