so aftermarket brands like trd etc are wrong in doing there thermostat? or did they do there math?
Coolant Bottle Emptying.
- Thread starter Sigma
- Start date
so aftermarket brands like trd etc are wrong in doing there thermostat? or did they do there math?
Rory
Lifer
Umless your in a relly humid / hot climate (like Japan) then they "might" work.
As for anywhere near the UK, stay away.
As for anywhere near the UK, stay away.
Had a chat with the Wizard this morning, and he's advised that the coolant is running hotter than the stock motor, causing over expansion, so cures are a bigger radiator and a cooler stat... Orrrrr, leave the temp running as it is now and put a bigger expansion tank on it, with the overflow returning to the engine somewhere... 
sx_turbo
Lifer
have you ever got the block skimmed?
the 4efte engines suffer badly from blocks warping, and there is onl a maximum of 2thou tolerance.
so regardless of what gasket you get you will always have the issue of the water being blown out of the over flow.
but first try a 1.3bar rad cap,
and possibly a brand new rad.
sometimes when the rad gets old and clogs up the same scenario's happen.
also the starlets are suppose to have green coolant. toyota dye thers red, the spec sheet for the antifreeze is g30.
red antifreeze is g48, and when they mix at a certain temp they form a sludge that gets stuck in the cooling system normally the rad or heater matrix.
the 4efte engines suffer badly from blocks warping, and there is onl a maximum of 2thou tolerance.
so regardless of what gasket you get you will always have the issue of the water being blown out of the over flow.
but first try a 1.3bar rad cap,
and possibly a brand new rad.
sometimes when the rad gets old and clogs up the same scenario's happen.
also the starlets are suppose to have green coolant. toyota dye thers red, the spec sheet for the antifreeze is g30.
red antifreeze is g48, and when they mix at a certain temp they form a sludge that gets stuck in the cooling system normally the rad or heater matrix.
danb87
South East England Area Rep
i had this problem, for a few months, was told headgasket had gone thermostat faulty etc etc. so stripped the engine down too have the head gasket done. what we found was that the toyota gasket was covering some of the waterway holes on the head/block.
i invested in a atheana gasket which has most of the waterway holes open. now i have no problems with it spittin out water through the expansion bottle atall.
in the process i did replace the thermostat,waterpump an got a civic rad. aswell.
my garage was 99% certain it was down too the water not being able too flow around the engine freely.
:beer:
i invested in a atheana gasket which has most of the waterway holes open. now i have no problems with it spittin out water through the expansion bottle atall.
in the process i did replace the thermostat,waterpump an got a civic rad. aswell.
my garage was 99% certain it was down too the water not being able too flow around the engine freely.
:beer:
Skimmed, new rad & a TRD 1.3BAR Cap. :/
Rory
Lifer
Ive never like the standard rad in the EP's.
Personally i think there shite, i never once had a problem when i changed to the single core Civic rad i had, or even now with the Alloy one.
Yet i had issues with the standard one., as somebody pointed out the top and bottom tanks are very little, therefor the flow is disturbed, which in turn is no use.
Personally i think there shite, i never once had a problem when i changed to the single core Civic rad i had, or even now with the Alloy one.
Yet i had issues with the standard one., as somebody pointed out the top and bottom tanks are very little, therefor the flow is disturbed, which in turn is no use.
Texx
Super Moderator
Had a chat with the Wizard this morning, and he's advised that the coolant is running hotter than the stock motor, causing over expansion, so cures are a bigger radiator and a cooler stat... Orrrrr, leave the temp running as it is now and put a bigger expansion tank on it, with the overflow returning to the engine somewhere...
Using a radiator that flows better and has a larger header tank at the top will probably help. IMO the capacity of the stock radiators header tank is insufficient and so cannot compensate for the level of restriction that the core causes to the flow of coolant. This creates a hot spot in the header tank and with it an increase in pressure, the increase in pressure causes the rad cap to release prematurely and coolant to flow out into the expansion bottle. By replacing the radiator cap with a blanking cap and fitting an additional pressurised header tank between the radiator and expansion bottle will in effect increase the capacity of the radiators header tank. With an increase in capacity there will be a reduction in the amount of pressure that builds up in that area and so the radiator cap shouldn't release before expected and thus coolant shouldn't be blown into and out of the expansion bottle.
Using a thermostat that opens at a lower temperature than the stock stat will do near fuck all to keep the cooling system in check. During a run down lap on a race track where there is a need to cool the car down before you pull off, there may be a use for a lower temperature stat. On a road car regardless of how amazingly fast you you might think it is, a lower temp stat will only cause the engine to run at too low a temperature when cruising and will function exactly the same as a stock stat when pushing the engine to it's limits. If you think a lower temperature stat will help to reduce the temperature of the cooling system during any form of hard driving, you haven't quite grasped how and why the cooling system does what it does.
You cannot have the overflow pipe of the expansion bottle running back into the cooling system. The cooling system uses a pressure release/vacuum return radiator cap, the expansion bottle is outside of the pressurised system. It's there to catch the expanding coolant that is blown out from the rad cap so it can be drawn back into the radiator by the vacuum created when the system cools and the coolant retracts.
It might pay you to forget about the 'Wizard' and speak to a mechanic instead.
Rory
Lifer
My post wasn't aimed specifically at you buddy, but for calling me naive after trying to tell us you cant see why oil would not work just as well at 70deg as it does at 90 says it all really dude.
:haha:
:haha:
How very naive of you, sir
danb87
South East England Area Rep
jonny-boi32
Member +
im glad i actually decided to read this, this is whats happening to mine, under any horsing its pushes the coolant out the overflow. we changed and tried a few rad caps but still happening. we thought about thermostat but didnt think at would coz this, so we thought head gasket. althought my mates uncle is a mechanic and he said it sounds like a cracked head. although my engines still smoking so i think ill jus put new engine in anyway. or would it be cheaper doing all above??
my gt was doing the same.changed the head, rad, stat, everything,. it seems like the water pump cavitates at high rpms thus resulting in loss of flow, which in turn gives you localised boiling in the head called hot spots which creates excess pressure and blows ur coolant out. though i have no idea how to cure it!!!
oem toyota 2e engine will directly fit the 4efte head. with no restriction etc. like what you are talking about
heres the link courtesy of club4efte
http://club4efte.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=209&start=0
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