Driveshaft support bearin?
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long shot but are u sure the noise is not inside the gearbox, i had a little noise around that area before, so i got it on the lift to have a better listen and it was the gearbox just out of the blue it happned something just collapsed inside there. this was a wee video of the noise http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBEdfQengH8&context=C3647d25ADOEgsToPDskLd-leOwrrWc0jDOmN3XOxk.
Im positive it's not in the box, it's coming from the driveshaft goin into the box end, the metal bit just after the inner cv joint ( the green cup as I call it lol)
And no it deffinwtly isnt that noise, it's like a drowning noise like the noise a wheel bearing makes when it has has gone
And no it deffinwtly isnt that noise, it's like a drowning noise like the noise a wheel bearing makes when it has has gone
Texx
Super Moderator
Your not really making much sense. There isn't any bearing on the inner CV joint or driveshaft for that matter. Think it would be best for you to get a photo with a big arrow pointing to what your looking at.
lol ok, ill take a picture of it tomorra when i get it on the ramp at work
weeJohn
Lifer
I will put my money on it being a wheel bearing, if its not that its the tripod bearings in the inner cv joints.
£10 each way lol, anyone want to take it?????????
I will put my money on it being a wheel bearing, if its not that its the tripod bearings in the inner cv joints.
£10 each way lol, anyone want to take it?????????
Is that the propper name for it? A tripod bearing? Because if it is then that's probably what I'm meaning when I say support bearing then, thats what I was told it was called any way lol
Texx
Super Moderator
The bearings in the inner joint look something like this:
These are spherical bearings, their purpose is simply to allow the driveshaft to float at the gearbox end, this ensures that the driveshaft still rotates even when the suspension is compressed or the engine twists on it's mounts. Hence the term constant velocity (CV).
Wear in these bearings is unlikely to result in a rumbling noise as they do not rotate under load, it will more likely give a single knock every time you accelerate or lift off the loud pedal.
The noise your describing will either be a worn wheel bearing, differential bearings or transmission shaft bearings. Sticking your head next to the gearbox whilst someone spins the wheel isn't going to load the components enough to identify the source of the noise, the gearbox will generate some noise when the shafts are turned anyway. Check the wheel bearing first, get the wheel off, remove the hub nut or at least undo it several turns, remove the brake caliper/discs/pads, put the wheel back on and then push and pull the wheel from sided to side and top to bottom to check for any play, also rotate the wheel to feel for any rough running in the bearing. The bearing should spin freely with no abnormal noise or play, if you identify anything out of the ordinary then it's best to replace the wheel bearing.
These are spherical bearings, their purpose is simply to allow the driveshaft to float at the gearbox end, this ensures that the driveshaft still rotates even when the suspension is compressed or the engine twists on it's mounts. Hence the term constant velocity (CV).
Wear in these bearings is unlikely to result in a rumbling noise as they do not rotate under load, it will more likely give a single knock every time you accelerate or lift off the loud pedal.
The noise your describing will either be a worn wheel bearing, differential bearings or transmission shaft bearings. Sticking your head next to the gearbox whilst someone spins the wheel isn't going to load the components enough to identify the source of the noise, the gearbox will generate some noise when the shafts are turned anyway. Check the wheel bearing first, get the wheel off, remove the hub nut or at least undo it several turns, remove the brake caliper/discs/pads, put the wheel back on and then push and pull the wheel from sided to side and top to bottom to check for any play, also rotate the wheel to feel for any rough running in the bearing. The bearing should spin freely with no abnormal noise or play, if you identify anything out of the ordinary then it's best to replace the wheel bearing.
The bearings in the inner joint look something like this:
These are spherical bearings, their purpose is simply to allow the driveshaft to float at the gearbox end, this ensures that the driveshaft still rotates even when the suspension is compressed or the engine twists on it's mounts. Hence the term constant velocity (CV).
Wear in these bearings is unlikely to result in a rumbling noise as they do not rotate under load, it will more likely give a single knock every time you accelerate or lift off the loud pedal.
The noise your describing will either be a worn wheel bearing, differential bearings or transmission shaft bearings. Sticking your head next to the gearbox whilst someone spins the wheel isn't going to load the components enough to identify the source of the noise, the gearbox will generate some noise when the shafts are turned anyway. Check the wheel bearing first, get the wheel off, remove the hub nut or at least undo it several turns, remove the brake caliper/discs/pads, put the wheel back on and then push and pull the wheel from sided to side and top to bottom to check for any play, also rotate the wheel to feel for any rough running in the bearing. The bearing should spin freely with no abnormal noise or play, if you identify anything out of the ordinary then it's best to replace the wheel bearing.
Well now it's developed a nocking noise from somewhere around the NSF wheel, I'm gunna check it ou to see what it is in a bit, hopefully it's not expensive to fix
It wouldn't make a very bad knocking tho would it?
Texx
Super Moderator
The rear bearing is the same, the front bearing for a factory LSD box is 90366-55045.
If you've not yet reinstalled the gearbox, I'd pull the viscous coupling off and check the condition of the needle bearing on the driveshaft side and also the sealed bearing on the gearbox side.
See here: click
If you've not yet reinstalled the gearbox, I'd pull the viscous coupling off and check the condition of the needle bearing on the driveshaft side and also the sealed bearing on the gearbox side.
See here: click[/QUOTE]
Yep, put the box back in straight after i did the clutch and posted the comment a few hours after about being a LSD box. Can't I just unbolt the LSD coupling from the outside or do I have to take the box off to change it
See here: click[/QUOTE]
Yep, put the box back in straight after i did the clutch and posted the comment a few hours after about being a LSD box. Can't I just unbolt the LSD coupling from the outside or do I have to take the box off to change it
Okies, how easy is it to do the other side aswell as in thinking about doing them both at the same time
Texx
Super Moderator
I'm not sure what you mean? There's only the one viscous coupling and that's on the drivers side of the gearbox. If your referring to the differential bearings, you'll need to remove the gearbox and strip it apart to change both sides. Basically there is a roller tapered bearing on either side of the diff inside the gearbox, the viscous coupling has a needle bearing to support the driveshaft and a sealed ball bearing to support the viscous coupling itself.
Lol sorry, I mean that beating u just said lol
dark_knight
Member +
transmission cup oil leak
Texx, as you already mentioned, the inner CVJs would only slightly knock when under load but would that also cause the joint to leak assuming a good oil seal..? after leaving the car sitting for about 6 weeks due to service and upgrades, on getting back to the road yesterday, that joint pissed almost all the box oil onto my driveway when i got back and parked.. :/
so i took the cup out and found some wear marks where the bearing (inside the box) would often make contact with the transmission cup shaft. i doubt this would have been enough to cause the problem but i'm now digging around to find out more.
& on that note, how would i remove the oil seal after the cup is out..? is there any special tool or can i use some 'intelligence' and basic sense on it..?
because pictures are worth thousands of words, here is the damaged transmission cup and what the transmission side looked like after i discovered the leak.
Texx, as you already mentioned, the inner CVJs would only slightly knock when under load but would that also cause the joint to leak assuming a good oil seal..? after leaving the car sitting for about 6 weeks due to service and upgrades, on getting back to the road yesterday, that joint pissed almost all the box oil onto my driveway when i got back and parked.. :/
so i took the cup out and found some wear marks where the bearing (inside the box) would often make contact with the transmission cup shaft. i doubt this would have been enough to cause the problem but i'm now digging around to find out more.
& on that note, how would i remove the oil seal after the cup is out..? is there any special tool or can i use some 'intelligence' and basic sense on it..?
because pictures are worth thousands of words, here is the damaged transmission cup and what the transmission side looked like after i discovered the leak.
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