In my experience over the years with clutch drag after fitting a new clutch regardless of manufacture, the route cause was rarely down to the clutch itself. The most common causes for clutch drag have been either crankshaft end float, high spots on the flywheel face, flywheel face warped, bent clutch fork, faulty or incorrect release bearing, faulty clutch slave or master cylinder or worn first motion shaft bearings in the transmission. All these faults can sometimes be masked by fitting a new clutch that has good clearance when depressed, but will never cure them.
The only time I have confirmed the clutch as being the cause for clutch drag is when the springs in the cover are worn and not releasing the friction disc sufficiently, this should not be the case with a brand new clutch unless it's faulty.
It should be a general rule that when fitting a new clutch you check the crankshaft end float and flywheel run out as these checks are simple to do and if your not fitting a new flywheel (never assume a new flywheel will run true, so check it's run out also) have the flywheel refaced. The release bearing should also be replaced, but most clutches come as a kit and include a bearing, just check the bearing has the same dimensions as the one that's being replaced. The transmission first motion shaft bearings are little more difficult to check, but you should at least check to see if there is any end or vertical play when force is applied by hand.
In my opinion, if you just remove the transmission, swap out the clutch and then bolt it all back together, you've only done half a job.