fitted new boost gauge and boost has gone up without me adjusting it !

anyone help me here, ive just fitted a new boost gauge as the old one was a bit difficult to read, as it had these bars that lit up and was hard to tell where it stopped if you get me. bought one that reads in bar its much better it has the actual needle and i can read proply.
But i fitted it and it seems to work fine took the car out and the boost has risen.
i was runing a .8 or .9 not to sure boost gauge dificult to read. but now its definetly gone up hitting a bar and when on the dual road at full pelt does creep over a bar a tad.
im happy with a bar of boost but bit pissed of as i had the afrs checkd and adjusted on the dyno now ill hav to have it re done but it seems weird why it has done thi
 

ChrisStarletGT

Member +
u wont need afr redoing as it was set using exhaust emissions the boost gauge was probably knackered or a cheap shit one i have different readings from different gauges like halfords cheap ones lol like my wastegate spring is supposed to be 6psi but boost guage reeds 10psi so got an electric one to fit now instead for a more accurate reading
 
ye im guna get it re checked to be safe, they can read it from the afr curve, jus check if its running lean or rich, most likely to be a tad rich now. running not knowing if im running lean worrys me
ye old one did giv a shit reading but the boost has increased after fitting the new gauge, can a cheap gauge cause boost to be running less than what it is? or possibly a minor boost leak? even though it has been boosting as it should, just felt a little laggy after putting the fmic on, doesnt now thats 4 sure :)
manifolds goin on monday then ill get it on the dyno sometime in the week .
 
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AdamB

Member +
A gauge is just a measuring device, unless you have a boost leak, but that wouldn't cause boost to increase.
As said its probably an old duff gauge, an electronic type is the better.
 

Jay

Admin
A gauge won't increase your boost. If nothing else has changed then one of the gauges is possibly reading slightly out compared to the other.

Jay
 
boost has definetly risen since ive fitted it, the old boost gauge had the vac hose that lead from the t piece that comes of the dump valve throught the bulk head to a black circular thing that was under the dash think this is called the sender ive just found out, then there was a red and black wire and white and yellow or might have been green wire coming of this that lead to the gauge.
the new gauge has red and black and ive just ran the vac hose straight to the back of the gauge as thers a push on fitting at the back of it unlike the old one,
works alot better gives a proper reading, im happy with it running a bar but just curious to y its done this, manifolds getting fitted monday then ill have it on dyno again

old gauge that was on the car when i had it ( hard to see where the lights stopped to read the exact boost when driving lol
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASMA-DI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a07f0db80

new one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-Smok...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1aba97b2

dont let the price fool ya, the new one is much better even though its cheap
 
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no dis-respect mate but i wouldn't trust either of those to give a perfect reading. if you want to be sure most electronic boost controllers have digital readouts.

something else worth nothing is i have a few customers come in with those 2nd type boost gauges and they have all been out slightly. worst i've see was 3psi difference to what the proper ecu map sensor was seeing.

Tim :)
 

glanza4ever

Member +
maybe the old one had a boost leak , or else you might have a false reading from the new one...
when you switch off the engine on which number stops the needle?
should stop on zero , if not its wrong allingment of the needle with the number plate of the gauge.
 
new one does seems pretty acurrate tbh as it does feel like a bar, not sure about where the needle stops at when i switch it off i havent looked or noticed. it does the same as the old one when its idling and rev it when stationary and then goes past the 0 when driving/boosting, just the old one was hard to work out where it boosted past 10 psi was kinda blurry efect hard to explain unless u got one, new one you can see the needle easy thats why i changed it,

besides how would a boost controller worki in conjunction with my fpr as once the fuelling setup to the boost turning it up and down would just fuck all that up, would u need a ecu for that ?
 
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just looked at it, when i turn it off the needle goes a tad past the zero with igniton off, does this means its reading a 0.1 psi out?
e.g so when it hits a bar its 0.9??

would this effect it, the old gauge had the vacuum hose go throught the dash to the sender but woth the new one i had to run up to the back of the gauge and ther wasnt enough vac hose so i got a t piece put the vac hose that came through the bulkhead to behind the dash into it and got the the vac hose which came with the new kit and put that in the other end of the t piece and ran it up to the back of the gauge behind the dash, but i blocked the left over end of the t piece with a bit of hose and a screw jammed in it.

would this effect it and would just a 2 piece joiner instead of a t piece joiner make it work?

i.e in this link would using the top one instead of the bottom
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-DUMP-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab05c23e5

on tick over idling the gauge reads -0.6 according to this thread thats fine as everyones seems to read in between -0.6 and -0.7, this is when engine is warm but not driven
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums...ge-show-at-idle&highlight=boost+gauge+problem
 
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