Forged Engine Rattle? Video, take a look!

sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
providing all of the timing marks are set correctly, you shouldnt need to adjust with the timing light, but double checking is good,

right witht he shims, its easier to remove the cams, but you can buy tools to remove them in situ,

you need to make sure that the valve is firmly seated and not being compressed at all by the cam, then measure the valve and minus the clearance you require,

you can either buy new shims, from toyota or an engine parts shop, or get the current ones machined, if they get machined make sure they are machined from the back of the shim, not the shiny hardened side, other wise the follower will just disintergrate
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
clarkytrd said:
Thanks for the reply, Cams are tensioned 100% and I've checked the clearances now and they are as follows :

INLET:
1. 0.20mm
2. 0.05mm
3. 0.20mm
4. 0.20mm
5. 0.10mm
6. 0.15mm
7. 0.00mm *(I could NOT get any of the feeler gauges between the lobe and shim..!!??)*
8. 0.15mm


EXHAUST:
1. 0.20mm
2. 0.20mm
3. 0.20-25mm
4. 0.20-25mm
5. 0.20mm
6. 0.20-25mm
7. 0.20mm
8. 0.20mm

As said above, INLET NO:7 seems the real bad one. But there are others with some lower numbers as you can see.

Any idea on where to go from here?
Click to expand...


Out of all the above, the only clearance that's within spec are the ones you have listed for inlet valves 1, 3 and 4. The remaining inlet valve and all the exhaust valve clearance are way too tight, you need to get this sorted before you even think about driving the car anywhere. Assuming you have checked the valve clearance correctly with the engine cold?, an excessive valve clearance is not the cause of the engine rattle. If the engine was warm when you checked the valve clearance, you need to go back and check them again.


4E-FTE Valve clearance with the engine cold are:

Intake 0.17mm - 0.23mm
Exhaust 0.27mm - 0.33mm

valve clearance.png
 
clarkytrd

clarkytrd

Member +
Thanks for that Texx,

I rang Westward Engineering who built my bottom end and he said to drop the whole car down to him to check it out cause he said something isnt right.

Valve clearance issues wouldnt make that sort of noise so I need someone to drop my car down to him, Shims will need sorting anyway but I dont know what is causing that rattling noise..

I shall let you all know how I get on, and thanks again for the help :).
 
Iain@CRD

Iain@CRD

Lifer
Was there any work done on the crank itself?

I've heard a noisy engine like this before and all valve clearences where correct/cam tensioned properly etc. Car went on the dyno and the noise could be picked up obviously on the det cans but it had no affect on the overall performance of the engine.

Only difference between this engine and others was that the crankshaft had been "lightened" but it made the same top end rattle.
 
clarkytrd

clarkytrd

Member +
Crank was given a very light polish before assembling the ACL bearings, that was it. Crank was perfect!

I'm dropping it down to him cause I dont want to risk doing anything myself, he said if I had a bore scope I could of seen if there was any valve - piston problems but I've no scope to check.
 
clarkytrd

clarkytrd

Member +
Got the car back.. valve clearances were done and the engine is still rattly!

He done a bore scope test and everything looked fine, said the car runs fine other than the rattling sound which he thought was cam related. The cam gears were tensioned before I fitted the head.
I have only drove the car 100mts or so and drives perfectly fine only a horrible rattle.

Drained the oil today and there was a bit of build up on the magnetic plug, oil seemed watery but maybe it was just me.

Where do I go from here??
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
build up on sump plug is normal.

whats your oil pressure like?

forged engines are generally rattly, if you want a quite forged engine you need to run the really tight clearances, or buy expensive pistons like omega or accralite forged pistons.

the wiseco pistons are the noisiest from experience, all you can do mate is drive it, i'm sure its all fine, if theres something wrong with it it wont take long for it to break.
 
Iain@CRD

Iain@CRD

Lifer
We recently investigated this rattle further also (using Wiesco Pistons aswell). We replaced the head with a good working one, checked all the valves, new seats and lapped in with all new seals etc and still the rattle is present. Can only assume its due to the Wiescos now. Engine produces power fine and gives no evidence of any issue with it.
 
clarkytrd

clarkytrd

Member +
Iain, thanks for that. I was gonna pull the head off and try another one as I was full sure it was the head but I've eliminated everything and like I said the car drives perfect.

I'm still running it in on cheap oil so once its ran in, do you think a heavier oil might quieten it down a little??

What oil should I use once its ran in??

Might be worthwhile emailing Wiseco and see can they clear it up for me a little!?

I dont know the piston - wall clearance to be honest as I just gave the parts and block and told him I wanted it ready to bolt the head on lol :)!

Will I throw up another video for you all to check out and see can you narrow it down??

Thanks,
John :)
 
clarkytrd

clarkytrd

Member +
sx_turbo said:
build up on sump plug is normal.

whats your oil pressure like?

forged engines are generally rattly, if you want a quite forged engine you need to run the really tight clearances, or buy expensive pistons like omega or accralite forged pistons.

the wiseco pistons are the noisiest from experience, all you can do mate is drive it, i'm sure its all fine, if theres something wrong with it it wont take long for it to break.
Click to expand...

Oil pressure around : 4 - 5 bar on cold, and about 2 bar on idle.

That sound ok!?

I'l keep an eye on it for now and run it in as normal and maybe a heavier oil might quieten it down a little.

Thanks for all the help :)
 
Johnny_C

Johnny_C

Lifer
mines has a similer rattle,well its more of a tap,sounds like its coming from injector 4 area,also using wisecos,although i never heard it before i sorted my high idles problem,can only hear it at low rpm,if i raise the rev it sort of leaves it.
 
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