braindamage
Member +
I had a similar problem when i was setting up my timing for my EMU.It turned out to be my tps was out as a wire from it was broken.U might want to cross check the wires and run a test on it
getting crazy with ignition timing
- Thread starter azerty
- Start date
Sheldon
Malta Area Rep.
now that your mentioning it.. my tps was out and was told by a mechanic i had my timing wrong... tbh i didnt bother checking it and then i set my tps and car was idling better... much more response and less back fires. after that i didnt check my timing... so i dont know if it was true or not but probably it was cos of the tps..
weeJohn
Lifer
ECU does not know the car is at idle with the throttle closed unless the tps is closed on the bottom 2 connections, so it will be advancing the timing as it thinks the throttle is cracked open. Jay had a similar problem with one a while back and I think this was the problem.
You can bridge the tps closed connections with a piece of wire in the plug to check quickly and easily.
You can bridge the tps closed connections with a piece of wire in the plug to check quickly and easily.
gorganl2000
Lifer
some great info in this tread
i cant think of nothing else to add --tps, timing, connections
i had a friend who had this some problem (all timing marks lined up).....i could not figure out why his distributor was rotated to the end in order to get anywhere near normal timing,,,,it was something his mechanic did to fix it, but he never told us
hope you get it sorted azerty
i cant think of nothing else to add --tps, timing, connections
i had a friend who had this some problem (all timing marks lined up).....i could not figure out why his distributor was rotated to the end in order to get anywhere near normal timing,,,,it was something his mechanic did to fix it, but he never told us
hope you get it sorted azerty
Sheldon
Malta Area Rep.
mine reved lower.. after it was set properly then revs went sky high!
Jay
Admin
Had this happen on a 1996 V one Sunday. It made the hangover quite interesting to say the least..
Just randomly checked the timing and found the mark on the crank pulley was way off. Brought it forward to the 10 degree marking and the car would not drive properly. Realised the dizzy was maxed out on it's runners so gradually knocked it back until the car drove okay.
Best thing I could figure was his belt was out a tooth so I told him to get it checked out before we did anything further. Knocked heads with Wee John about it. Heard last week his da took the covers off the cambelt and it was a tooth out. I'll update whenever I see the car next. He was due a belt anyway so hopefully that'll be him sorted.
I noticed his RPM went up when diagnosis mode was entered rather than down which would make a difference as John says.
Jay
Just randomly checked the timing and found the mark on the crank pulley was way off. Brought it forward to the 10 degree marking and the car would not drive properly. Realised the dizzy was maxed out on it's runners so gradually knocked it back until the car drove okay.
Best thing I could figure was his belt was out a tooth so I told him to get it checked out before we did anything further. Knocked heads with Wee John about it. Heard last week his da took the covers off the cambelt and it was a tooth out. I'll update whenever I see the car next. He was due a belt anyway so hopefully that'll be him sorted.
I noticed his RPM went up when diagnosis mode was entered rather than down which would make a difference as John says.
Jay
azerty
Supermoderator
so back to search
in diagnostic mode, i get intermitent regular flashes. I guess this means no fault ? am I right ?
now, about TPS, it seems all fine. I did check with a voltmeter on ECU plugs. it says 4.98 volt throttle body closed, then 0 volt WOT
so, I went a bit further I asked myself what could cause the ECU to advance timing like that.
tried an other coil and ignitor. still the same.
I brought the car back home so I'll check things each time something pops in my mind. tomorrow I 'll try an other ECU and MAP sensor...
BTW, my beleive is that all this started since my last rebuilt 4 month ago (changed crankshaft and rods)
in diagnostic mode, i get intermitent regular flashes. I guess this means no fault ? am I right ?
now, about TPS, it seems all fine. I did check with a voltmeter on ECU plugs. it says 4.98 volt throttle body closed, then 0 volt WOT
so, I went a bit further I asked myself what could cause the ECU to advance timing like that.
tried an other coil and ignitor. still the same.
I brought the car back home so I'll check things each time something pops in my mind. tomorrow I 'll try an other ECU and MAP sensor...
BTW, my beleive is that all this started since my last rebuilt 4 month ago (changed crankshaft and rods)
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azerty
Supermoderator
So I'm fully & totaly lost 
I have been to garage who has a diagnostic device.
when my car is at 10° BTDC using timing light (which is when my distributor is fully down, so fully retarded) the diagnostic machine says 23° !!!!
I have swaped to an other ECU, same results.
I'm starting to worry about cam alignment again, as this is the only thing I haven't checked with my own eyes...
but two mecanics who are both specialist on 4efte & 4age have checked them. so it is hard to beleive they could have both fucked up.
Now I can't think of anything else !!!
I would love to see a pics of cams settings at TDC with any tips about what ot check. (There is a story about a "retaner" on the intake cam)
I have been to garage who has a diagnostic device.
when my car is at 10° BTDC using timing light (which is when my distributor is fully down, so fully retarded) the diagnostic machine says 23° !!!!
I have swaped to an other ECU, same results.
I'm starting to worry about cam alignment again, as this is the only thing I haven't checked with my own eyes...
but two mecanics who are both specialist on 4efte & 4age have checked them. so it is hard to beleive they could have both fucked up.
Now I can't think of anything else !!!
I would love to see a pics of cams settings at TDC with any tips about what ot check. (There is a story about a "retaner" on the intake cam)
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azerty
Supermoderator
for those who have already tried to take picture of a LCD screen with a phone will know what I have been thru !!
injection time : 2.2ms
Ignition timing 25.3°
Idle air control 29%
Engine speed 925 rpm
Manifoild pressure : 182 lmbar
ECT sensor : -31°C
ECT sensor 90°C
Throttle position : 0 %
vehicule speed: 0 km/h
Target A/F/I : 2.51v
Closed loop : off
Knock control : off
Starter signal : off
Closed throttle s/W : off
A/C signal : off
O2 sensor : Lean
few things are weird, isn't it ?
ECT sensor : - 31°C ??? hello, I live in Mauritius !
injection time : 2.2ms
Ignition timing 25.3°
Idle air control 29%
Engine speed 925 rpm
Manifoild pressure : 182 lmbar
ECT sensor : -31°C
ECT sensor 90°C
Throttle position : 0 %
vehicule speed: 0 km/h
Target A/F/I : 2.51v
Closed loop : off
Knock control : off
Starter signal : off
Closed throttle s/W : off
A/C signal : off
O2 sensor : Lean
few things are weird, isn't it ?
ECT sensor : - 31°C ??? hello, I live in Mauritius !
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You say this has all started to happen after rebuilding the engine, it is possible something has been disturbed/failed during rebuild?
Are you checking the timing after the radiator fan has kicked in and stopped and engine is fully warm?
Does the engine drop and hold a stable rpm when you going into diagnostics mode?
Is your water temp sensor working?
Are you checking the timing after the radiator fan has kicked in and stopped and engine is fully warm?
Does the engine drop and hold a stable rpm when you going into diagnostics mode?
Is your water temp sensor working?
Sheldon
Malta Area Rep.
why it isnt showing as an error code!
Texx
Super Moderator
Surely that should read ON when the throttle is closed. Have you disconnected the TPS and shorted the idle pins as weeJohn suggested?
I wouldn't worry too much about the -31°C ECT reading, the ECU only uses one ECT sensor so that's probably why the scanner is giving an odd reading for the other one listed.