speedvision cam timing

[MARK@CMBAUTOS]

As Ted says, they have to be spot on, or they wont work.

x2

 

[Ted]

Sorry, I missed that bit mate. How did you go about timing up each cam? Did you just attempt to align them by eye, or did you use a dial gauge and timing disc to make a TDC mark for each camshaft?

I get what your saying about the cam gears limiting the amount of available adjustment, I'm just trying to understand how you've confirmed it's not possible (I'm not saying it is possible) to align the cams into a position where they produce a usable result.

the intake cam seemed to have its cam dowell in the right place so i put the cam gear on, then put it in the head next to a standard exhaust cam , both sitting at tdc. i then took out the std exhaust cam and put back in the speedvision exhaust cam with the pulley dowell lining up ok(the cam gear was 2 teeth out, marks on the inside of the cam gear just dont line up)

from doing this the position of the intake cam was spot on, the exhaust cam seemed ok lobe-wise compared to stock but not close enough as the car wouldnt run.

yes you could use the data sheet(i have mine) to redrill the dowells so everything works but thats not a cheap thing to get done, probably need a specialist to spend a day working it out, not cheap.

i see what youve posted sam about aftermarket cams sometimes needing moved around-just not possible with a 4e setup. the exhaust cam is linked to the intake cam, if the exhaust cam is wrong and the intake is right then this will take more than an adjustable pulley to fix

 

[Rory]

As below Sam.

Sam throw up a copy of the data sheet for the cams. Let everybody see.

If i cant see a data sheet before the end of the week from Sam, then these will be getting thrown in the feild at the house, even still cut up into 16 lobes for key rings, hell Sam ill even send you one.
Waste of £350 but ill never buy any Speedvision products again.

 

[Ted]

As below Sam.



If i cant see a data sheet before the end of the week from Sam, then these will be getting thrown in the feild at the house, even still cut up into 16 lobes for key rings, hell Sam ill even send you one.
Waste of £350 but ill never buy any Speedvision products again.

i have a data sheet, will post it up later

 

[Rory]

Thanks Ted.

 

[Rory]

Rwading this again, how would that work?
Even on exhaust stroke (piston on the way up near TDC), exhaust valve should be near closed and inlet just opening (depending on cam timing and overlap) - if both were full open your piston would just have exhausted all your charge straight up the inlet. You would keep the zorst valve open a wee bit because you get a "suction" effect from the outrushing gas that pulls more inlet charge in.

If yes just ignore the top marks put 1st cylinder at tdc and put both cams in such a way that both have their valves open at full lift.(idealy you need the exhaust valve to have more lift than intake) With this way you will be as close as possible.

Chris

Whats your thoughts?

Rory

 

[Texx]

so ur saying that most of the cams u do dont line up and this is what you do to make them work?

Sam, as you probably know the exhaust cam is driven by the timing belt and the intake cam is driven by the exhaust cam gear.

So assuming the timing belt pulley dowel is in the correct position we can assume the exhaust cam can be timed up correctly. However, the markers on the intake and exhaust cam gears are there to enable the intake cam to be timed up correctly with the exhaust cam. If the exhaust cam gear is incorrectly located it will be near impossible to correctly time up the intake cam and the teeth of the cam gears allow for little to no adjustment for this to be done.

Basically, if either of the cam gears are not located correctly you'll just be pissing in the wind trying to time them up.

 

[350ep70gr]

Rwading this again, how would that work?
Even on exhaust stroke (piston on the way up near TDC), exhaust valve should be near closed and inlet just opening (depending on cam timing and overlap) - if both were full open your piston would just have exhausted all your charge straight up the inlet. You would keep the zorst valve open a wee bit because you get a "suction" effect from the outrushing gas that pulls more inlet charge in.



Whats your thoughts?

Rory

Rory it is the overlap i mean. At tdc you need both valve open with the exhaust valve a litle bit more lift than intake. You need to have a bit more lift to exhaust cause when you put the belt back in will throw it a bit on one side.
To get it right if you move the crank the direction it normally rotates will close the exhaust and gradually open the intake. Thats why you need to data sheet to figure out at wich deggree of the crank you should have how much lift and at wich degrre you need each valve close or open.
Adjusting with the way i tell you it will not be grand but you will not have running issues. Will be less than a teeth out of what it should be.
Ofcource then you need to readjust the pin so the gears shit in the right degrees.
Finaly if you dont want them you can throw them to my address... and i will make them RUN.
The other way you can do it is to put the standard cams back on and mesure them. At wich degrees they have full lift. Then you put new cams in and adjust like it was oem. Dont know if you get it.
You need an angle disc paper for the crank tho..and a depth caliper attached to the valve shim.

Chris

 

[Ted]

hard to read but it says

intake opens 8.0 btdc
intake closes 40.0 abdc
exhaust opens 48.0 bbdc
exhaust closes 0.0 atdc

duration at 0.050" lobe lift intake- 228degrees,exhaust 228 degrees

 

[Rory]

Nice Ted.

Thanks.

 

[ryan-11]

did everyone that bought these cams get a data sheet? because i never

 

[Rory]

Understand loud and clear

Rory it is the overlap i mean. At tdc you need both valve open with the exhaust valve a litle bit more lift than intake. You need to have a bit more lift to exhaust cause when you put the belt back in will throw it a bit on one side.
To get it right if you move the crank the direction it normally rotates will close the exhaust and gradually open the intake. Thats why you need to data sheet to figure out at wich deggree of the crank you should have how much lift and at wich degrre you need each valve close or open.
Adjusting with the way i tell you it will not be grand but you will not have running issues. Will be less than a teeth out of what it should be.
Ofcource then you need to readjust the pin so the gears shit in the right degrees.
Finaly if you dont want them you can throw them to my address... and i will make them RUN.
The other way you can do it is to put the standard cams back on and mesure them. At wich degrees they have full lift. Then you put new cams in and adjust like it was oem. Dont know if you get it.
You need an angle disc paper for the crank tho..and a depth caliper attached to the valve shim.

Chris

Ill have a look at the cam timing on Friday afternoon with the above data sheet.
Not doing anything with it till then.

 

[BallıGee]

did everyone that bought these cams get a data sheet? because i never

nor did i

so does this mean that you dont use the oem marks ?

 

[Rory]

i wouldnt...

 

[Ted]

still waiting on response from sam

 

[D3N0]

did everyone that bought these cams get a data sheet? because i never

Nor did i, my head was f*ck'd hard with these cams. Due to this i lost alot of money

 

[Texx]

I haven't got access to a printer so I can't say if any of these are of any use, but if you haven't already got a timing disc they're probably better than nothing.

Timing Disc PDF

 

[Chris@CCM]

sorted now lads get them timed up ps ted i have a timing disc if u need one

 

[billybob]

sorted now lads get them timed up ps ted i have a timing disc if u need one

so there working fine now chris have you sorted it

 

[Shorty]

guide on fitting the cams anyone?? think it would be a very helpful tutorial still want to buy these so realy in two minds. as above they runing ok now chris??