Still having a cam issue :(

[madman]

i dont use the gear judge i dont find it works also turn your learn gear to X otherwise the avcr will alter your setting ie fuck them up imo. turn your graph scale up to 2.0kg/cm2 and your ne to 8000rpm when you do this you will have to adjust your ne points again are you running stock rev limit?


Setting (b) -

1. boost/duty - bst - 1.55 kg/cm2, dty *** or 70%
2.scramble - bs - +0.00 kgcm2, Dt - +0%, Tm - 0 sec
3, ne - point - ne8 - 6500rpm.- ne7 -6000rpm, ne6- 5500rpm,ne5- 5000rpm,ne4 - 4500rpm, ne3- 4000rpm,ne2 - 3500rpm, ne1 3000 rpm
4.f/b speed - 1s/3 - 2n/3 - 3r/3 - 4t/3 - 5t/3
5. learn gear - 1s/0- 2n/0- 3r/0- 4t/0-5t/0
6. start duty - 1st - +10%, 2nd +4%,3rd +8%,4th +0%,5th +0%

these settings look good is she holding the same boost ie 1.55 bar the whole way up the rev range?

 

[danb87]

Madman, wat does it alter it too lol? Any think serious?

 

[madman]

Madman, wat does it alter it too lol? Any think serious?

it tries to adjust the boost itself i found it hard to contol the boost back when i had that setting on but everyone is different in how they set them up and use them.

 

[Iain@CRD]

my settings are -

etc -

1. car select - cyl/1 , spd/4, thr/ arrow pointing say north east way
2. sensor sel - 1 relative 1 ,2.relative 2, 3, absolute 1, 4. absolute 2
3.gear judge - 1st/150, 2nd/113,3rd/076,4th/053,5th/041 an also n/s /255
4. graph scale - bs- 1.0kg/cm2, ne - 6000rpm, sp- 180km/h
5. sensor chk - bost - 1.523v (changes) , thrt - 0.488 v (changes), scsw - off
6.vfd bright - day- 90, dim - 60, nig- 20

Setting (b) -

1. boost/duty - bst - 1.55 kg/cm2, dty *** or 70%
2.scramble - bs - +0.00 kgcm2, Dt - +0%, Tm - 0 sec
3, ne - point - ne8 - 6500rpm.- ne7 -6000rpm, ne6- 5500rpm,ne5- 5000rpm,ne4 - 4500rpm, ne3- 4000rpm,ne2 - 3500rpm, ne1 3000 rpm
4.f/b speed - 1s/3 - 2n/3 - 3r/3 - 4t/3 - 5t/3
5. learn gear - 1s/0- 2n/0- 3r/0- 4t/0-5t/0
6. start duty - 1st - +10%, 2nd +4%,3rd +8%,4th +0%,5th +0%


any one confirm theres?

Couple of these are wrong.

ETC > Car Select > 4 Cyl 4 Speed it should be.

Sensor Select should be Relative 1.

Settings > F/B Speed > 1st (5) 2nd (5) 3rd (3) 4th (1) 5th (1)

The 3 *** in Boost/Duty mean the AVCR is self learning, which is fine thats how its suppose to show.

Rest look fine.

Basic Setup guide is below: DONT ADJUST YOURS TO SUIT THIS, THIS IS MENT FOR ANYONE FIRST INSTALLS AN AVCR.

Thought I would type up this basic setup tutorial for the Apexi AVCR boost controller that I got from a member on the old forum incase people are wondering where to begin or how to do a basic setup before they go exploring all the features.




First thing to do is initialise it all and start again, you do this in "etc" and "yes" it. Turn the ignition off and then back on again and all settings should be back to stock.

In the menu "Learn Gear" leave learn gear open on all gears i.e no cross through any

In the menu "etc, Car Select" set up for 4 cylinder 4 speed, graph you can leave at 1bar but change speed graph to 240kmh sensor absolute1 or relative1 depending what it works best with.

Also check whether throttle should be connected up on your car, some starlets do some don’t, if yours is a don’t ,then again in ‘etc, car select’ where it has an arrow pointing up/down or stars leave yours as stars.

In the menu F/B Speed setup up the gears to the following -

1st - 5,
2nd - 5,
3rd - 3,
4th - 1,
5th -1

Now that the basic settings have been inputted it's time to get the boost controller setup for your desired boost level.

Right next problem is boost, you can only go up not down! So if you actuator boosts to .8 bar stock you wont be able to get .6 bar!

Set your target boost to whatever your aiming for and leave duty as is.

Go to monitor boost only, what your trying to do is get the boost to hit your target boost in the settings, keep upping duty until it achieves boost or lowering if it goes over.

Always do a pull in the same gear 3rd or 4th being best.

After you do a drive hitting the max boost, stop and press the "Up Arrow" on your controller and it will display the peak setting so you can adjust according and while you are displaying the peak hold if you press the "Right Arrow" this will reset the value and the "Down Arrow" will release the peak hold.

Adjust your duty according and reset the Peak value and do a test run again, Once you have it boosting properly to the point of what you set it at it should go into three stars *** in duty, this means its self learning!

If it sounds like its hunting while doing this then that’s the time to mess with ‘feedback speed’.

Feedback speed is how many times you want it to assess the boost, i.e in 1st have it quite high 5, 2nd 5, 3rd 3, 4th 1, 5th 1 the reason for this is longer gears take longer to boost correctly so it will analyse it to often.

Repeat it all for setting B as it doesn’t carry over.


Hope this helps people with a basic setup to their boost controllers, If they are not confident about mucking about with the menu's and changing settings then I recommend getting a tuner to set it up for them, but if they are just remember to read the manual and double check everything.

 

[danb87]

ian the ones that are wrong, what do they do too the car itself mate?

an i should defoo change too the ones you recomend mate?

thanks

dan

 

[danb87]

Bump

 

[Texx]

Cyl is the number of cylinders, so it should be set to 4 and not 1.
Spd is the number of pulses per revolution of the speed sensor, this should be set to 4.
Thr is the throttle input, this shouldn't be used (AVC-R grey wire should not be connected) and so set it to * *.

F/B Speed is basically how often the AVC-R will make adjustments in each gear, it's best to set it high for low gears and low for high gears.
As said above, set it to 'F/B Speed > 1st (5) 2nd (5) 3rd (3) 4th (1) 5th (1)' and see if you get a stable peak boost pressure in each gear.

 

[danb87]

Probally a silly. Question texx but how do i kno if the grey wires connected, open up all the wrappin on loom? n how do
I adjust it which i assume is the settin which has the arrow going north east direction

Thanks

 

[Texx]

Left and right buttons select, up and down buttons change the selection. Yes the arrow needs to be changed to * *.

The grey wire shouldn't be connected, the AVC-R connections have probably been made near the ECU so that's a good place to look first. If the grey wire is connected to the ECU, chop it off and tape the wires up.

 

[danb87]

Ok texx telhr avcr is wired intoo emu lOom side so will get it out an see, should i adjust that thr setting now tho or wait untill checked the wire?

Thanks

Dan

 

[Texx]

The AVC-R should ignore the throttle signal when Thr is set to * *, so you may not need to worry too much about the grey wire (personally I would make sure it's disconnected anyway).

The main thing is to change the CYL to 4 and Thr to * * and then see if the set boost pressure holds or whether it still drops off.

 

[danb87]

Texx, as madman says change graph scale too 2kgcm2 an ne too 8000 but will need too change the ne points what do i change them too? Ill change them ina min an then focus On the wire after

Ive done what iain as said too do so far

Thanks dan

 

[Texx]

There's no point altering the RPM points to go as high as 8000rpm unless your engine is normally pushed that hard, 6000 or 6500rpm is probably as far as you need to go, but again depends on your rev limit and whether the turbo is over or under boosting at high engine rpm's.

Your current NE point settings won't be causing boost to drop off, so I'd leave them until you get this boost issue sorted.

 

[danb87]

There's no point altering the RPM points to go as high as 8000rpm unless your engine is normally pushed that hard, 6000 or 6500rpm is probably as far as you need to go, but again depends on your rev limit and whether the turbo is over or under boosting at high engine rpm's.

Your current NE point settings won't be causing boost to drop off, so I'd leave them until you get this boost issue sorted.

right texx, changed them too what ive been told, been for a quick drive too start with, the screamer is now working properly boost seems too be more responsive an getting full boost at 4100rpm instead of 5000.

one thing im notcing since getting back from the mappers as he could get his laptop too work with the emu software he had a fiddle with the dizzy, an now its running a bit lean on idle, like high 16s which it used oo be high 14s/low15s could i adjust the dizzy a little bit too correct this?

thanks

dan

 

[Texx]

I wouldn't move the distributor unless you can check the spark advance with a timing light (should be at 10° with diagnostic terminals Te1 and E1 shorted and idle speed of around 800rpm).

If you've any concern with the base timing, get it checked ASAP.

 

[danb87]

heres what ryan@2bar is telling me. - the settings that "he done". compared too settings im beling told here are basically wrong... im no expert these are his words an not mine.

the cyl setting should be one as theres only one output on the dizzy so basically now it being 4 the revs are x by 4 so hence why boost is not as responsive but quicker too full boost.

the thr wont make a diifrence as the car doesn have the sensor.

then the fb settings that 4-5 are 1 is shit an the car will be shit top end...

also been told that the torques good an that it drops of top end, because the cams are out, obs over the years from the skimming/change of headgasket the normal marks dont show its propper relevance. so will be out.

been told too use a dial in tool an do it that way...

again ill reiterate his words not mine. i have no knowledge on wtf going on

input please if you can

 

[Gtstu]

when the cylinders are set to 4 the revs do read wrong as there is only one output . just a thought as im having the same issue on the boost controll valve have you got the ports set for an ewg?iim going to check mine tomo as its too dark now, If you find out whats wrong pm me lol

 

[danb87]

Mine are set too ewg mate checked that a few times

 

[Texx]

CYL should be set to 4 as it should be wired to the IGF signal from the igniter. The IGF fires everytime a spark is confirmed, so 4 pulses of the IGF means the engine has fired on each cylinder and the cycle starts again. 4 IGF pulses = 1 engine revolution.

If the AVC-R isn't connected to the IGF (or IGT) signal, RPM based boost control won't work. The only time CYL is set to 1 is when using an injector signal to measure engine speed, this will only work with systems running sequencial injection, the 4E uses batch injection so this method cannot be used.

This guy sounds like a bit of tool going by what your saying, maybe you'd be best off finding someone who can actually locate the fault rather than feeding you with a list of bullshit reasons.

 

[danb87]

i might just go elsewhere an get another opinion from a local tuner, something aint right.

thing is i tell him that you guys have told me its wrong an he gets offended about it. im just trying too get too the bottom of this issue ive had couldn give a shit whos offended, i just want my car workin propper.

now these setting have been changed texx do i have too go back too a dyno? as the car is obs diffrnt again dont want it detting. or is there a way of doing this myself?

thanks

dan