Timing

GTnomez

Member +
i get how to do it in theory, doesnt seem to bad but im not sure how to use the light and dont understand the before top dead centre. i know where to adjust it useing the rotor mechanism but what to? do i just set it to 10 degrees before top dead centre then?
 

CMR

Member +
So...when the belt is put on the engine the timing on the pulley/s is lined up to 0?.
Then the ignition timing is set to 10btdc via the rotor/distributor?

Im a bit confused now!
 

Big_Daddy

Member +
This how i think it should be. Plug the gun in and point it at the 10 degress timing on cover. every time crank goes around it should flash exactly each time crank marking and marking on cover align up.
 

CMR

Member +
but what if the belt was put on at say 1 degrees, not lined up to 0 on the pulley (looking at the marks youd have to be blind to not line it up but..) Could you still set it to 10 degrees with the rotor, would you have to set it 9 to compensate, or am i just talking bollocks?
 

Big_Daddy

Member +
but what if the belt was put on at say 1 degrees, not lined up to 0 on the pulley (looking at the marks youd have to be blind to not line it up but..) Could you still set it to 10 degrees with the rotor, would you have to set it 9 to compensate, or am i just talking bollocks?

Well i dont think it would make that much different as its only1 dgress but i would just set it up for 10. You could try 9 and see if there is any differnt in the performance.
 

CMR

Member +
Well hopefully my belt was put on right at 0 so its just my ignition to be checked.. but was just asking the question in case of the worst!
 

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
Decreased power, increased fuel consumption, exhaust popping on idle

i know for sure that timing is out cos it was checked with a timing light and i will change timing belt next saturday.

exhaust pops especialy when i take off my foot off the gas or change gear. top end power byebye

as for fuel consumption im not doing that bad. will see how i go after sat :D
 

RGM1800

Member +
situation:

after crusing @ 2nd gear around 2krpm-1krpm deceleration my car judders at 1.2-k rpm. is it off timing?
 

danturbo4311

Member +
you can get a timing gun off ebay, draper one for £15 thats what i got works fine, you connect the timing gun up via instructions (its not hard) postive, negative lead then connect the other lead to the HT lead on cylinder 1 to get the light to pulse on time with the spark. What i do is tip x the 10 degree mark on the timing case so you can see it better, then tip x the crank pulley on the grooves/marks. Then put it in diagnostic mode, start it up & point the timing gun at the 10 degree mark (you do this from the top of the engine not underneath basically standing above the power steering pump pointing the light at the timing case & crank pulley) & you will see clearly where the timing is, if its out loosen the bolts on the dizzy & advance & retard by moving it do this slowly thou.
 

iamlegend

Member +
^^^ when u say diagnostic mode how you do that? i tried to perform a dia test but couldnt solve it out i looked at the how2 guide but thats the wrong shape to my box on my car:confused:
 

danturbo4311

Member +
Find the grey diagnostic box which is right next to the positive lead on the battery, then use a paper clip or peice of wire to bridge terminals TE1 & E1 together then turn the ignition on then watch the ECU light (orange) in the bottom right corner of the dash see if it flashes, if it flashes continuosly then theres no errors, if theres a code it will flash a certain number of times then pause. so for twelve it will flash once then pause & flash twice then pause. When your adjusting the timing youll need to run the engine, when your checking for error codes all you got to do is turn on the ignition, dont need to start it
 

iamlegend

Member +
Find the grey diagnostic box which is right next to the positive lead on the battery, then use a paper clip or peice of wire to bridge terminals TE1 & E1 together then turn the ignition on then watch the ECU light (orange) in the bottom right corner of the dash see if it flashes, if it flashes continuosly then theres no errors, if theres a code it will flash a certain number of times then pause. so for twelve it will flash once then pause & flash twice then pause. When your adjusting the timing youll need to run the engine, when your checking for error codes all you got to do is turn on the ignition, dont need to start it

cheers mate, why does it have to be in diagnostic mode to check your timing thow?
 

Big_Daddy

Member +
you can get a timing gun off ebay, draper one for £15 thats what i got works fine, you connect the timing gun up via instructions (its not hard) postive, negative lead then connect the other lead to the HT lead on cylinder 1 to get the light to pulse on time with the spark. What i do is tip x the 10 degree mark on the timing case so you can see it better, then tip x the crank pulley on the grooves/marks. Then put it in diagnostic mode, start it up & point the timing gun at the 10 degree mark (you do this from the top of the engine not underneath basically standing above the power steering pump pointing the light at the timing case & crank pulley) & you will see clearly where the timing is, if its out loosen the bolts on the dizzy & advance & retard by moving it do this slowly thou.

good idea with tip ex
 

GTnomez

Member +
but what if the belt was put on at say 1 degrees, not lined up to 0 on the pulley (looking at the marks youd have to be blind to not line it up but..) Could you still set it to 10 degrees with the rotor, would you have to set it 9 to compensate, or am i just talking bollocks?

this is what i thought, it cant just be lining a light at 0 degrees as there is no account for human error. It is not always going to be accurate with someone holding a gun on 0, this is what i am confused about.

where is Chris and the rest of the big boys?
 
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