Aftermarket Highlift cams - Help!
weeJohn
Lifer
You keep mentioning this, can you tell me how to do it?
wildchild
Member +
shims were fine. my mechanic who fitted the cams said they were ok and so did my tuner who rechecked before mapping. valve clearance was fine.
If iam to keep the cams & check cam degree & ignition timing then i have to change my tuner..
There is no way that the cams were fitted and no changes were needed in the shims bud.
Something fishy here...
John, I think you are just maybe miss understanding my post. The OP must play with the vernier gear before he goes back to the FHE cams.
You can adjust the vernier gear yourself wildchild
Something fishy here...
John, I think you are just maybe miss understanding my post. The OP must play with the vernier gear before he goes back to the FHE cams.
You can adjust the vernier gear yourself wildchild
weeJohn
Lifer
The OP must play with the vernier gear before he goes back to the FHE cams.
What vernier gear?
He has a variable camshaft sprocket set at 0deg
weeJohn
Lifer
If know, but its near impossible to get both cams where you want them, even if you misalign the interior cam gear by 1 tooth, there is not enough movement on the vernier to adjust it back for the other cam.
Every adjustment you make for the intake, throws the exhaust off and vice versa. I have a vernier on my engine, its for decoration basically.
wildchild
Member +
had a lengthy discussion with my tuner. he says its best to keep the cams and go for higher boost (by using a 3bar map sensor). He says to change to FHE cams if i want to use it for street. else keep the existing cams if i want to use it for drags. Im spending loads for this car to be the best at the drags so no use tuning it for street performance and expecting drag figures.
But i feel its better to go for the FHE cams. atleast it has higher duration & lift than stock 4efte. also i dont intend to replace valve springs too. cant be taking out the head as well.
This whole thing is drivin me nuts.
Btw i wouldnt lay my hands on the vernier cam gear. thats not something dat i understand dont wanna risk my bottom end.
We only get a wee trophy for first place :/
As weejohn says its for decoration basically
But i feel its better to go for the FHE cams. atleast it has higher duration & lift than stock 4efte. also i dont intend to replace valve springs too. cant be taking out the head as well.
This whole thing is drivin me nuts.
Btw i wouldnt lay my hands on the vernier cam gear. thats not something dat i understand
dont wanna risk my bottom end. We only get a wee trophy for first place :/
As weejohn says its for decoration basically
wildchild
Member +
I do understand your point John, but remember only the person who designed and made these cams will know what is going on.
I can not see that the cams will be out of faze with each other. But it could be. The only way to check is with a dial.
The OP can gain a lot of power with these cams if the problem is solved. Its worth it to make the intake cam vernier
Wildchild, bud there is no risk involved by adjusting the vernier sprocket
You can make lots of extra power if you get the problem
How sure are you that the cams are installed in the correct positions?
The lag problem clearly tells that the timing is not correct.
Maybe the slot where the distributor goes into is not machined correctly. Did you check the ignition timing?
I can not see that the cams will be out of faze with each other. But it could be. The only way to check is with a dial.
The OP can gain a lot of power with these cams if the problem is solved. Its worth it to make the intake cam vernier
Wildchild, bud there is no risk involved by adjusting the vernier sprocket
You can make lots of extra power if you get the problem
How sure are you that the cams are installed in the correct positions?
The lag problem clearly tells that the timing is not correct.
Maybe the slot where the distributor goes into is not machined correctly. Did you check the ignition timing?
wildchild
Member +
cams are installed correctly otherwise i wouldnt have even been able to make a power run on the dyno.
Ignition timing has to be correct as it was mapped on the dyno. i assume it to be correct coz i left those for my tuner to handle.
We didnt machine the slot which takes in the dizzy. Only one small piece like 1mm had to be filed off for the cam to sit on the head at the front end. just one part.
Ignition timing has to be correct as it was mapped on the dyno. i assume it to be correct coz i left those for my tuner to handle.
We didnt machine the slot which takes in the dizzy. Only one small piece like 1mm had to be filed off for the cam to sit on the head at the front end. just one part.
The car will make power with the intake cam one tooth out and cause lag.
You can do a simple dial test. You can ask the guy with the lathe to put his clock gauge on your shim bucket.
And check where the crank sits when the 1st valve starts to open(movement on the clock gauge)
You can do a simple dial test. You can ask the guy with the lathe to put his clock gauge on your shim bucket.
And check where the crank sits when the 1st valve starts to open(movement on the clock gauge)