Air to Fuel Ratio Tuning

MentaLEP91

Member +
stoichiometric AFR numbers are good for a car OFF BOOST. e.x my glanza(stock ecu and fueling) on a WB afr shows
14.7 afr at idle
13.9-14.9 off boost between 1100-3000rpms
10.8 on boost.

a narrowband afr is only accurate in readings close to 14.7
other than that, it shows bananas.

so get a wideband or go to a duno and set it up correctly
 

RobSR

Member +
imo narrowbands tell you piss all, theyre a comedy af gauge, think they only tend to read/work on idle & cruise due to how the lambda sensor reads afr. Get a proper wideband
 

Jay

Admin
As above yes on boost it is, i was just saying that if a narrowband is reading stoich or lean....then you can probably go with that :)

Yes you are correct. So in terms of realworld tuning it basically tells us feck all squared.

Hook a wideband up in conjunction with a narrowband and the readings bear very little relation to each other.
 
Im using the aem wideband and at idle it reads from 15.2-5 when warmed up than on full boost (0.87bar) it comes up pretty gd to high 10s to mid 11s (i know that sometimes its a bit rich cause my fpr is set to let that happen) also with a nice build up on going into boost (12.5-14) and when criusing off boost it shows up between 14 to 16 (pretty normal on criusing will be a bit lean).
 
seeing the reaction time between the narrowband and the wideband ...even when talking about the stoich area........i would not use the narrowband at all for any kind of tuning........

by the time it picks up lean/stoich, your engine could be molten metal.........

u need to remember it only take a very short time for things to go wrong depending
 

billybob

Untrusted Seller
seeing the reaction time between the narrowband and the wideband ...even when talking about the stoich area........i would not use the narrowband at all for any kind of tuning........

by the time it picks up lean/stoich, your engine could be molten metal.........

u need to remember it only take a very short time for things to go wrong depending

so whats the best for the job?
 
I can't fault and recommend the AEM wideband AFR Uego controller with the Bosch sensor , many on here are using it and also recommend it to me and its a piece of a valuable tool one must have installed especially when tuning a turbo car like ours.It isn't a cheap item eh but really worth it, its around the £220 mark! There is also the Innovative ones, heard that are very gd too but the best to hear from someone using them for a better feedback!

Hope that helps
 

munday

Member +
Yes you are correct. So in terms of realworld tuning it basically tells us feck all squared.

Hook a wideband up in conjunction with a narrowband and the readings bear very little relation to each other.

Was just informing people, i never said it could be used for tuning :homer:
 

Jay

Admin
This topic regards tuning with air/fuel ratios. A narrowband should be dismissed immediately from the discussion. It does not offer accurate or relevant data.

Please don't get me wrong mate - I appreciate your input but too often such elaboration only serves to confuse matters. Don't you think?
 

STARLET N/A

Member +
Glad this topic has come up. I planning on getting a wideband afr gauge when i get my breathing mods on my n/a (rolla mani,induction kit,possible custom exhaust mani, full exhaust and decat)
If i get a rrfpr will it possible to tune it myself. Or is it something that absolutley needs to be done by a pro?

Thanks
 

Fatman

Member +
Glad this topic has come up. I planning on getting a wideband afr gauge when i get my breathing mods on my n/a (rolla mani,induction kit,possible custom exhaust mani, full exhaust and decat)
If i get a rrfpr will it possible to tune it myself. Or is it something that absolutley needs to be done by a pro?

Thanks

Yes, you can tune it yourself. No, it isn't hard.

Hit boost, watch gauge, too low? turn up. Too high? turn down.

The big difference between running it up yourself or running it up on the dyno is with a basic wideband gauge you can't log a curve against revs.

Buy an Innovate LC1 with a gauge, that way you have all the benefits of a gauge (instant viewing, no setup required) but the ability to log to your laptop for far more precise adjustments.

Off boost at idle and cruise/light load you should be at 14.7 afr due to the closed loop operation of your standard narrow band o2 sensor. This means that if your sensor is reading 'rich' e.g anything less than 14.7, your ECU will pull fuel until it's bang on the money. 14.7 is NOT 'more safe' than 15 or 16, just the best compromise between the different exhaust emissions caused by your car. On boost your afr on a stock ECU will be anything from 12.5 - 10 varying across the rev range. Your target for full boost/high load should be 11.5 - 12. You probably won't need much adjustment to achieve this depending on your setup.
 

Harvey

Member +
I have bought an innovate LC1 havent plumbed it in yet. Good thing is you can re program the 2nd output to ideband too, and plug it into the emanage then use the emanage software to log rpm vs AFR (in a % value) so no need to pay another £100 for the rpm sensor adapter for the LC1 :rockon: Just need to convert the % number to an AFR figure but that wont be difficult once its set up :D
 

Jay

Admin
will it possible to tune it myself. Or is it something that absolutley needs to be done by a pro?

It's perfectly reasonable to expect you to achieve a safe tune yourself just by following advice and doing a little research.

You shouldn't expect to instantly start pushing boundaries with your new found talent so a visit to an experienced tuner is still recommended but if you listen,watch and learn it will help you to understand.

We all started somewhere mate. ;)
 
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