Engine timing

Hi guys need some urgent help if anyone can assist.

Recently put up a 5efte reused my old ep82 harness ecu etc yo guys know the drill.

For some odd reason my engine wont keep standard timing. In order to get 10 Degrees on the pulley i find that my distributor has to be at full retard position. As a result the car is lazy and sluggish. Did an error code found that my tps needed adjusting tried that then changed it to realise it was destroyed with loose parts on the inside.

Changed it then found my idle control valve wasnt working so changed that as well. Tried to set timing again same thing.

Any sugguestions?
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Did you short out TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic port before trying to set the timing?
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
you set timing on the crank at zero degrees, line everything up (cams etc)


on the distributor there is a line and a groove, these should line up perfectly (you need the rocker cover off)

there is no need to move or adjust anything really.
 
Yes the ecu was bridged out for timing to be set as that is the only way to do it. Yes the cam and pulley have all be lined up at the correct timing so the only thing that needed to be adjusted is the distributor.

When the timing light is put on the pulley for some reason the distributor has to be at full retard position just to get 10 Degrees which is obviously not the norm, the standard distributor position is usually half way or just about. I think thats the grove you speak of.


Since the distributor is still pulled all way down the car is still being retarded it is horrendously slow. And feels like it is straining. When the distributor is placed in the standard position the timing on the pulley is way off the chart advanced.

Car build is 5ehe block with 4efte pistons on 5efhe rods, entire engine rebuilt via overhaul kit etc bearings etc etc etc. ported 4efte head. Garrett gt28r and stock ecu recently replace idle control valve and tps which we thought was cuasing the issue. Any other pointers??? Its really annoying not being able to squeeze and it feel the way it should.

It felt normal when i switched the tps and apparently had two wires on teh tps reversed. Is there a dif between 91model tps wiring and later models.
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
take the belt off and start again.

use the 4e markings,

set the crank to zero, line the cam up.

i think you also need to use the 4e distributor (unless the 5e is identical)

but it can all only go on 1 way, for the timing to be that far out you have fitted something incorectly.
 
ricky....strange thing is...the guys that bajanplaidman is associated with are normally quite familiar with 5e/4e builds of various power
i think they have been over the timing a few times,,,and i dont think they would make a timing error in all honesty

something just seems amist in this one

didn't billybob have this same issue with a 5e build he did? well i know some1 did....i cant remember if they got the problem solved
 
Last edited:

sx_turbo

Lifer
ricky....strange thing is...the guys that bajanplaidman is associated with are normally quite familiar with 5e/4e builds of various power
i think they have been over the timing a few times,,,and i dont think they would make a timing error in all honesty

something just seems amist in this one

didn't billybob have thins same issue with a 5e build he did? well i know some1 did....i cant rememebr if they got the problem solved

fair enough, i weren to know,

cheers dude :)
 
i've seen this happen once before....when i tried to check the timing on a 5e build on a friend's car......i could not get the timing checked properly with the timing light (indiagnostic mode or otherwise)....it was way off the chart from where it should be, yet the car was working ok,,,dont ask me how

we were only checking it as i had a timing light in my hands...lol

but i guess its how his mechanic set it up or something......only coincidence was that this was a early model gt also---1990/1991 from memory....his tps was working properly also
 
I know its not 5e but on my 4e when i set the bottom crank at 10 the symptons described occur, i also had to move the dissy to even get it acceptable.When moved to zero everything is okay.
 

billybob

Untrusted Seller
ricky....strange thing is...the guys that bajanplaidman is associated with are normally quite familiar with 5e/4e builds of various power
i think they have been over the timing a few times,,,and i dont think they would make a timing error in all honesty

something just seems amist in this one

didn't billybob have this same issue with a 5e build he did? well i know some1 did....i cant remember if they got the problem solved

yes lad had the same thing happen to me but it was on my 1.3 starlet seems it was the tps sensor on the throttle body so just changed the lot and when i did that it went back to the 10 dergress 100% its the tps lad as it does affect the timing same thing when we done it to spuddys car:)
 
yes lad had the same thing happen to me but it was on my 1.3 starlet seems it was the tps sensor on the throttle body so just changed the lot and when i did that it went back to the 10 dergress 100% its the tps lad as it does affect the timing same thing when we done it to spuddys car:)

thanks for the reply dude....repped
 
Yes I been at it again this evening. Got electrican to check the TPS once again. It had shifted he set it right yet again now with this working idle control valve so we know none of the two are the issue now. Went to set timing still no change distributor still cracked in full retard postion ust to get 10 on the pulley.

Then we got an error code 12 which when researched is NO RPM signal or NO TDC signal (What exactly is the TDC signal) it also had the circuit as distributor/starter/amplifier circuit this by the way had me totally lost.

Switched out my stock ecu for another stock ecu. All error codes were gone reset the ecu tried to set timing same thing distributor is still cracked down to full retard position, The car now sputters a lil after start at low rpm.

As far as we can tell or remember the cam is on 4e and the pulley was spot on position when checked a couple weeks ago. This is quite disturbing and frustrating as i would really like to feel how the car goes around the track next week.
 

finx

Member +
sounds like cam belt is half a tooth out.
other things can be
tps- allready coverd
dissy - wrong one or damaged crank sensor (inside dissy)

i would say knock sensor buy you have said that it only get 10deg at full retard to it wont be this. and it would have shown up in error codes.

my money is on the cam belt timing being out. very easy to do on these engines. and you wont even notice it sometimes.
 

Texx

Super Moderator
If you're 100% sure the cam timing is set correctly, then it has to be the ECU that's advancing the spark. If you're also 100% sure you've sorted the TPS, then I would try another MAP sensor and to rule it out another distributor.

What is the Toyota part number on the distributor you are using? Is it from the 4E or 5E engine?
 

billybob

Untrusted Seller
you must be out a tooth lad im going to be doing a timing belt mybe this week i will put a video demo up for it ,,when your doing the timing belt make sure that the crank nocth is a tooth before the oil pump dot as when the tensioner is thieght it will pull it right.
 

billybob

Untrusted Seller
you must be out a tooth lad im going to be doing a timing belt mybe this week i will put a video demo up for it ,,when your doing the timing belt make sure that the crank nocth is a tooth before the oil pump dot as when the tensioner is thieght it will pull it right.

try another tps of a friends car lad and see if the timing changes if not your most likey out a thooth on the belt
 
Yeah its getting really annoying now car is hard starting on mornings now for the second time. And sputtering at low rpm. I think this weekend i gonna have try another distributor and yes its a 4efte distributor.
 
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