Ignition Problem
- Thread starter clarkytrd
- Start date
corofin12345
Member +
ive traced all wires off wiper motor in the pinout below (my poor eyes) and all wires from motor go to a connector inside the car... you sure no wires are cut around ignition barrel harness?
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20491-EP82-EP91-ECU-Pinout-Diagram
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20491-EP82-EP91-ECU-Pinout-Diagram
clarkytrd
Member +
No John all the wires look fine, really cant figure it out at all.
They worked fine before and I have never been near any of the wires since so I cant figure out how they would just keep blowing the fuse.
All connectors on the motors and switch have been disconnected and tested and it still blows.
They worked fine before and I have never been near any of the wires since so I cant figure out how they would just keep blowing the fuse.
All connectors on the motors and switch have been disconnected and tested and it still blows.
corofin12345
Member +
did you check the motor itself to see if its working?
corofin12345
Member +
oh... so motor is out the window... that will annoy me now but just cant think off the top of my head what else is it could be
corofin12345
Member +
is the ignitor plugged in, sorry just going about it the long way...
corofin12345
Member +
behind diagnosis port... just trying to get my head around it john, alot of wires go to that connector in the car, including ignitor...the pinout is confusing at times, everthing seems to be connected.. just trying to find a break.. if you could find the earth off the wiper motor you could earth it from there to the car/engine, if it still blows a fuse, its not an earthing problem..
corofin12345
Member +
not downing you in anyway but i have left off connectors before and spent hours looking elsewhere for solutions, go into the pinout and cross off every connector that you have re-connected, ud never know, one might be gone astray but it just could be something else blowen or faulity
corofin12345
Member +
do, i just cant think... if its blowing with motor disconnected the problem is else where along the loom..
Texx
Super Moderator
The wiper motor uses a component earth i.e. the body of the motor being bolted to the car. The secondary earth that runs through the switch is used for the intermittent wiper operation (inside the switch) and also to turn the washer pump on and off. If the fuse blows with the washer pump, wiper motors (both front and rear) and switch disconnected then it indicates there is a short to ground in the wire harness.
I've no wiper/washer circuit diagram for a Starlet, so can only go by my own conjecture. I'll take a huge guess and suggest the 12v feed to the rear wiper is switched, so the 12v feed from the wiper fuse will split 3 ways, to the washer pump connector, to the switch on the steering column and straight to the front wiper motor connector. To confirm there is a short in this circuit, you'll need to use a multimeter set to the 200Ω range and check the resistance/continuity between the circuit side of the fuse and a good body ground point (do this with above connectors disconnected). There should be infinite resistance or no continuity (whichever way you want to look at it). If the meter shows a resistance reading of 0Ω or more then you have confirmed there is a short to ground in that circuit.
Ultimately that means there will be a wire in that circuit that is touching a metal part of the car somewhere. It could be crushed behind a bolt or bracket or possibly have a screw wound through it. Either way it's going to require a visual inspection to find the cause of the fault and might not necessarily be obvious or easy to identify.
I've no wiper/washer circuit diagram for a Starlet, so can only go by my own conjecture. I'll take a huge guess and suggest the 12v feed to the rear wiper is switched, so the 12v feed from the wiper fuse will split 3 ways, to the washer pump connector, to the switch on the steering column and straight to the front wiper motor connector. To confirm there is a short in this circuit, you'll need to use a multimeter set to the 200Ω range and check the resistance/continuity between the circuit side of the fuse and a good body ground point (do this with above connectors disconnected). There should be infinite resistance or no continuity (whichever way you want to look at it). If the meter shows a resistance reading of 0Ω or more then you have confirmed there is a short to ground in that circuit.
Ultimately that means there will be a wire in that circuit that is touching a metal part of the car somewhere. It could be crushed behind a bolt or bracket or possibly have a screw wound through it. Either way it's going to require a visual inspection to find the cause of the fault and might not necessarily be obvious or easy to identify.
clarkytrd
Member +
Still having a major ignition problem...
Door light on dash stays on all the time, ignition lights are really really dim.
My kill switch for the alarm which is wired to the ignition, gets really hot when I turn on ignition (but when i bypass alarm, unplugging turbo timer harness, it doesnt get hot.)
Wiper fuse doesnt blow now for some reason...!?
Anyone any idea as this is a major set back for the car...
Door light on dash stays on all the time, ignition lights are really really dim.
My kill switch for the alarm which is wired to the ignition, gets really hot when I turn on ignition (but when i bypass alarm, unplugging turbo timer harness, it doesnt get hot.)
Wiper fuse doesnt blow now for some reason...!?
Anyone any idea as this is a major set back for the car...