need some help: crank pulley & Rear oil seal??

[Garci]

Trying to change my timing belt & crank rear seal.

1. how the hell do i get the crank pulley bolt loose??
i dont have a locking tool, tried for hrs lastnite but crank turns everytime pissing me off.
2. can the rear crank oil seal be replaced without taking off oil pan? alsoif the oil pan has to come off , i have a sump gasket , do i still need to use RTV sealant
along with the sump gastket?

 

[whiteglanzav]

try using an air ratchet for the crank bolt and to change the rear crank seal you have to take the gearbox and flywheel off

 

[dac69er]

if you dont have access to air power tools then put the car in gear and get someone to put there foot on the brake hard. using a long bar the bolt should undo!

sump is sealed with just sealant and you dont need to remove it to do either end crank seals

 

[TheStarletGT]

I will tell you what i did to get the crank bolt loose.

1: Use a good impact socket or any other socket and fit it dead straight to the bolt, you may need to lower the engine by a few mm by losening the engine mount on the cam side.

2. Use that socket and a ratchet and jam the ratchet on a piece of suspension so when you crank the engine, the socket will give a big boost of force for it to loosen. (This may not loosen the crank bolt, but it will motivate it).

3: Get the socket back on the crank bolt with the ratchet and give it a big hit with the hammer. This will loosen the bolt garanteed. Hold the socket part with your left hand and give it a blow on the ratchet handle with your right hand.



Loosening the bolt is the easy part, removing the crank pulley is even easier This is what i did for a successfull removal.

1. Turn the engine so the (KEYWAY) is at the 12 oclock position.
2: Get any type of lubricant, any, i even used DRY lubricant.
3: Spray inside that keyway as its hollow. The space inside the keyway has a pocket, that way it can trap more lubricating fluid and will penetrate the whole inside pulley. Spray so its saturated inside. Use a piece of vacume hose or get that little red plastic extension piece that you attatch to the spray nozzel.

4: Give the pulley a few taps with the hammer and its loose. Slide out. Its very easy to do.

 

[dac69er]

that way of removing the crank pulley bolt is rough as hell. doesnt do your reachet much good either. i would stick with a different method

 

[Sigma]

Yeah, you really shouldn't be cranking it with anything on a pulley =/

In 1st gear with someone on the brakes is probably the best way, but a universal lock-up tool is about only about £20.

Once you've removed the front pulley, you'll need to take off the timing belt & timing pulley.

Best way of getting the timing pulley off, is by covering it in WD40, and then leaving it for a little while, then whilst holding two screwdriver sized pry-levers, one either side, give the end of the crank shaft a fairly good, straight hit with a copper hammer.

You can then change the front seal. Remember to lightly grease both the outer and inner edges of the seal before fitting.

The rear oil seal is a much bigger job, and you need to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to get to it.

Same applies to this seal, when refitting, with a little grease on either face.

 

[TheStarletGT]

Remember to lightly grease both the outer and inner edges of the seal before fitting.

I strongly recommend people DO NOT grease the outer surface of the seal, be it the cam seal or rear main seal.


The lip, yes, but the outside part that makes contact to the head or block no big time!!!!!!!!

 

[TheStarletGT]

that way of removing the crank pulley bolt is rough as hell. doesnt do your reachet much good either. i would stick with a different method

I dont think so. As long as i took the bolt off in less than 2 minutes, i couldnt give a monkyes anus of what went on. It works everytime.

 

[Texx]

Personally I would apply grease to the inner face of the seal and liquid gasket to the outer face of the seal, then use the old seal to tap the new into position. Once the new seal is in place, any excess liquid gasket can be cleaned off.

 

[TheStarletGT]

Yeah, you really shouldn't be cranking it with anything on a pulley =/

In 1st gear with someone on the brakes is probably the best way,

then whilst holding two screwdriver sized pry-levers, one either side, give the end of the crank shaft a fairly good, straight hit with a copper hammer.

Ok so let me get this straight.

1: Your strategy to remove the crank bolt is to have 2 people involved. This is so non productive and time consuming. Less people, better the outcome.
2: The use of 2 screwdivers. I dunno what you will achive by using 2 skinny spaggeti sticks of metal to get a 152nm bolt loose.



I can get the bolt loose and crank pully removed in less than 5 min doing it the way i described. if you cant, well thats to bad then.

 

[gedis]

i does it with rachet on the bolt and and crank over the engine, and never had any problems, but when there's some one around i do it with gear and brake pedal with breaker bar, the man(or sometimes i vedge the stick in between seat and brake pedal) is only needed for 2seconds anyway

 

[Garci]

Ok guys Thanks for the very helpful comments. got the bolt loose in 2 sec:
1. (air gun ,car in 1st gear , pry bar wedged between lug nuts & 2 people.)
didnt get to do timing belt though:
2. tried a bunch a claw type puller no no cant get behind to grab it & if it does seems like it would rip lip off pulley.
3. have another T shape puller that has holes in the top can put bolts through & thread in the pulley
but the bolts we had were too short so i left it alone for now until next week when i get longer bolts cant afford to break pulley lol.
4. yeh there was oil pouring down the backing plate of bellhousing, so car was slipping really bad since new clutch
took gear box out cap clutch had oil everywhere try clean it up but it look like sh%t cover facing scored & disk glazed to hell
so ditch it put back old one had to take sump down as last person covered in rear seal housing with
gasket sealant so look me longer to clean off gasket seal then to
fit the car back.
now am off to go start it up & hope for no leaks.
Reps for everyone
Thanks

 

[Sigma]

Ok so let me get this straight.

1: Your strategy to remove the crank bolt is to have 2 people involved. This is so non productive and time consuming. Less people, better the outcome.
2: The use of 2 screwdivers. I dunno what you will achive by using 2 skinny spaggeti sticks of metal to get a 152nm bolt loose.



I can get the bolt loose and crank pully removed in less than 5 min doing it the way i described. if you cant, well thats to bad then.

Hmmmm. Cock.

If you were to comprehend my response, you'd understand that this particular instruction, is for the removal of the pulley which the timing belt runs on, and not the auxilary belt pulley?

Door.

 

[dac69er]

im not getting shitty mate. i just think that is a bit of a dangerous way of doing it. if anything slips it could be dangerous or could damage something.

admittedly it will work but the quick way isnt always the best way.

 

[weeJohn]

The claw type pullers will pull the pulley off using the lip between the 2 steps of the pulley. Its not like you are excerting a sudden force to the lip, it is gradual. I have done it this way many times before without breaking the lip.

Put the pulley retaining bolt back into the thread and screw it in finger tight to give the pullers something to push off. Once the pulley is moving up the shaft and you have ran out of pulling distance, remove the bolt and screw it back in about 3 or 4 turns then start pulling again.

Put plenty of sealant around the 2 dips in the sump, about a 6mm thick constant length. It needs more here to seal properly.