oil light flicks on, :(

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rwdrev

Member +
was out last night putting some miles on the starlet and went round a couple roundabouts and the oil light flicks on, it goes straight back out, but its worrying me. does it on right handers if thrown in abit much. its a brand new pressure switch.

im wondering now if its because its now alot stiffer on suspension that the oils running away from the pickup and starving it slightly and dropping the pressure.

im running castrol magnatec 10w 40 and just turned 300 miles since rebuild.

any thoughts?
 
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AdamB

Member +
Could well be mate, the thing is the stock pressure light is shit, by the time it comes on damage has already been done because it comes on at something seriously low.

I've not known many starlets to have problems with oil surge though. I assume a new oil pump was fitted at the rebuild? My first impression would have been pressure switch, but if its been changed and the wiring is good I can't see it being that.
 
Rob H

Rob H

Member +
I'd say the oil level is too low or the pick up pipe is bent. It's def a starvation problem rarther than mechanical.
 
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rwdrev

Member +
yeah, new toyota oil pump, oil level is well withing the stick pickup pipe was perfect and straight when fitting. wire to the switch is fine. i havnt done an oil change yet, but will be done this week some time when the filter arrives. but it runs sweet as a nut and no unusual noises.
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
I had the same problem when the oil level was too low! It's possible that you have a pressure drop, for a time being try to avoid sharp cornering. Try to put thinner oil and see if it's going to help. Also about the brand new pressure switch - even the brand new items fail sometimes...
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
my main concern is you getting the speed up to corner that hard your getting oil starvation on an engine that has only done 300miles. You should be taking it easy and driving normally until atleast 1000miles before giving it any beans.

you should also be on a strict running in oil and monitoring levels like crazy in the first 1000miles. This is the most important time of the engines life. get it wrong and it'll also burn oil and never have the compression its meant to

castol magnatec is the totally wrong oil to be using, i'm hoping you've not used that since day one as piston rings won't bed in properly on that semi or fully syth oil.

The best stuff is millers competition running in oil from opie oils, its what i use on all my engines.

Tim
TB Developments
 
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rwdrev

Member +
^^ oops. At a guess now after 300 miles a change of oil grade wont matter now? it wernt a hard throw in. been and had a look this morning and theres a weep of oil around the sump/front pulley and the level has dropped abit.
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Sounds like the sum is not sealled right and oil is leaking from under the pulley. If you take the sum off to re seal it, check the pick up pipe length compared to the depth of the sump, there are some different variations.
 
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AdamB

Member +
The most important time is within the first 25-50 miles. Personally I would have done atlesst 2 oil changes by now.

Try and get the leak sorted, do you have an oil pressure gauge? If not I would get one on there asap to check for any problems which could be causing your issue.
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
get the leak fixed like others have said. if the rings haven't bedding in by now there not going to i'm afraid and to sort the problem its new rings, hone and start again.

But i would just see how you get on now, do the full running in and just see how much oil it burns you might have got lucky

Tim
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
real men warm their engines up and then redline them at full boost, if its going to break, it will be then ;)
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
H_D said:
I thrased the living shit out of my forged engine in the 1st 50 miles and then did an oil change!
Click to expand...

thats how you bed in a race engine, but it doesn't give good longevity, but find for short life span hard use engines. When we did the Big BHP drag engines there run in was the 1st run down the strip lol

Tim
 
Tim@TBDevelopments

Tim@TBDevelopments

Lifer
if your taking it apart have a check of big end bearing condition, also get the micrometers on there and get some numbers of the crank and big end journal sizes

Tim
TB Developments
 
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