Quick thermostat question??

td04 project:)

td04 project:)

Member +
Due to my car getting very hot at a track day last year i thought i would buy a sard one, can anyone give me a quick guide to fitting it?

Cheers,
Allan
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
Remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the water inlet on and then remove the thermostat, reinstall in reverse order.

A low temperature stat won't cure an overheating problem unless the old stat was faulty. If the old stat is faulty the engine would overheat during normal use.
 
td04 project:)

td04 project:)

Member +
Car doesnt overheat during normal use but surely due to the sard one running cooler its got to keep temperatures that bit lower on track, no?
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
weeJohn said:
The wee jingly bit needs to be at the top
Click to expand...

IIRC there's a small lug on the water inlet that you align the jiggle valve up to.


td04 project:) said:
Car doesnt overheat during normal use but surely due to the sard one running cooler its got to keep temperatures that bit lower on track, no?
Click to expand...

The thermostat mainly dictates minimum coolant temperature, once the stat is open, it's open. If the coolant temperature continues to rise excessively once the stat opens, it would indicate that the cause lies elsewhere. The radiator and cooling fan would be the first things to look at.
 
Rory

Rory

Lifer
Stock thermostat is more than adequate for track work. ;)

Sounds like you have a rad problem.
 
td04 project:)

td04 project:)

Member +
Thanks guys well its a custom alloy rad i got from Keith at zisco i was planning to wrap my mani and dp but I've not had the time!
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
The cooling fan should kick in at around 94°C, expect coolant temperature to peak at around 98°C before dropping. On a significantly hot day you may see coolant temperature peak at around 102°C, by this point though you should be keeping a very close eye on the temperature gauge. At 105°C and above there's an extremely high risk of engine damage.

What's the pressure rating of your rad cap?

What are you using for engine management?
 
R

Rev

Member +
td04 project:) said:
Thanks guys well its a custom alloy rad i got from Keith at zisco i was planning to wrap my mani and dp but I've not had the time!
Click to expand...

That's a good point Aluminium would absorb engine bay heat a lot quicker than the stock radiator I guess you have to manage that some how.
 
M

Murray

Member +
td04 project:) said:
What sort of temps should i see on track or more to the point what temps should i back off a bit?
Click to expand...

On Rorys Starlet ive been out for a good 10 mins of abuse and it didnt reach 90 degrees.

On my own car i back off about 9o degrees, just before the fan kicks in.
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
Murray said:
On Rorys Starlet ive been out for a good 10 mins of abuse and it didnt reach 90 degrees.

On my own car i back off about 9o degrees, just before the fan kicks in.
Click to expand...

mine is pretty good at keeping cool in the hottest of temps as long as i keep moving. once i stop it starts getting high. but the rad fan keeps it under control!
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
If you pull the rad fan switch plug off the back off the thermo housing the fan will run constantly, on track thats no bad thing.

An engine coolant flush could help remove some deposits built up in there as well, but make sure you flush the system out a good 5 times before refilling with coolant after using it. Its a detergent so it creates bubbles, not good for cooling lol.
 
M

Murray

Member +
weeJohn said:
If you pull the rad fan switch plug off the back off the thermo housing the fan will run constantly, on track thats no bad thing.

An engine coolant flush could help remove some deposits built up in there as well, but make sure you flush the system out a good 5 times before refilling with coolant after using it. Its a detergent so it creates bubbles, not good for cooling lol.
Click to expand...

As much as it sounds a good idea to constantly run the fan, wouldnt it become a restricting factor if you were moving?
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Murray said:
As much as it sounds a good idea to constantly run the fan, wouldnt it become a restricting factor if you were moving?
Click to expand...

Its a hard call that one, it still reduces air pressure at the back of the radiator as it pulls air away from there. That low pressure area helps the air move through the rad and cool. Its a hard thing to know when that pressure becomes equal as the bottom of the engine bay is open. Its nearly one for the aerodynamacists in the F1
teams that one lol.

1st track day I went to I ended up overheating and pushing water out the expansion bottle. Rad fan running flat out, boost screwed down and even the bonnet off didnt help 1 bit, the stock Civic rad just couldnt do the job needed.
 
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