Ross forged pistons - boost
- Thread starter HKS111
- Start date
A good stand alone management and a very good tuner.
Anyway the right term to use is HP and not bar. If the engine was built/tuned correctly and maintained properly then you won't be able to break it.
You can fit a borg warner pump on it it push it 350hp all day long, except for the bad big end bearing design on these engines
Anyway the right term to use is HP and not bar. If the engine was built/tuned correctly and maintained properly then you won't be able to break it.
You can fit a borg warner pump on it it push it 350hp all day long, except for the bad big end bearing design on these engines
HKS111
Member +
A good stand alone management and a very good tuner.
Anyway the right term to use is HP and not bar. If the engine was built/tuned correctly and maintained properly then you won't be able to break it.
You can fit a borg warner pump on it it push it 350hp all day long, except for the bad big end bearing design on these engines
Engine just been built, just finished running it in (about 2000km). Specs as below:
Ross pistons
Scat rods
Acl main, rod and thrust washer
Athena 1.4mm headgasket
ARP head bolts
TD04 turbo
Sard RRFPR
Greddy emanage ultimate (not wired in yet)
Jack_ep82
Member +
I have near enuff same spec,exactly same pistons ross racing flatop pistons but a gt28r kit on mine been set up on emu at 1.5 bar since last christmas, used reguarly and not a problem since, so should be fine on a good map
HKS111
Member +
A good stand alone management and a very good tuner.
Anyway the right term to use is HP and not bar. If the engine was built/tuned correctly and maintained properly then you won't be able to break it.
You can fit a borg warner pump on it it push it 350hp all day long, except for the bad big end bearing design on these engines
> Skala very interesting but are you saying the stock water pump is a weak spot and needs replacing or that Borg warner make a good upgrade pump over stock.
> Which Borg warner pump is it you are recommending?
No buddy, I mend a borg warner turbo. They can handle silly amounts of boost.
And the big end bearings on the crank is to small. Honda has the better design.
Toyota E and A series can make good power but the big ends are the problem.
A stronger oil pump is the way to go! 2E/4E big ends are only 15mm wide! Not good for boost levels of 2bar+ for prolonged use.
sx_turbo
Lifer
agree with skalabala,
my engine builder was extremely worried when i said i had plans to run 2bar of boost on the big ends of my 4e, he said they were far to small, but we had a go anyway he he he, unfortunately i got as far as 1.6 bar and stopped there before selling up,
it's difficult to say what the sulution is, and i dont believe there is a real solution, just make the build as best you can and go from there really,
my engine builder was extremely worried when i said i had plans to run 2bar of boost on the big ends of my 4e, he said they were far to small, but we had a go anyway he he he, unfortunately i got as far as 1.6 bar and stopped there before selling up,
it's difficult to say what the sulution is, and i dont believe there is a real solution, just make the build as best you can and go from there really,
Thanks guys , great info as usual . I read some oz threads insisting on thicker oil 15w60 ( cheaper semi synthetic ) was minimum needed to protect bearings on a road car in hot weather. I am using a racing oil that is supposed to maintain thickness with heat but some use a summer oil and winter oil to keep thickneses up in varying conditions. So it seems oil choice is the main way to protect bearings on these cars.
sx_turbo
Lifer
a good qaulity 10w50 will keep things running smoothly, no need for the 60 imo,
i will recomend adding some of this http://www.edsmotorsport.co.uk/lucas-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer-264-p.asp , now i know oil additives are generally looked at as being a bad idea, and i myself would never put them in my car, but this stuff is awsome was recomended to me by my engine builder and i refused to put it in, after a while of him persuading me, well i'm a convert and have put it in pretty much everything i own now, it basicly acts like castrol magnatec by clinging to the surface when cold, and reduces the oil break down when at high temperatures, and when you drain the engine oil it comes out with it so nothing to worry about.
i will recomend adding some of this http://www.edsmotorsport.co.uk/lucas-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer-264-p.asp , now i know oil additives are generally looked at as being a bad idea, and i myself would never put them in my car, but this stuff is awsome was recomended to me by my engine builder and i refused to put it in, after a while of him persuading me, well i'm a convert and have put it in pretty much everything i own now, it basicly acts like castrol magnatec by clinging to the surface when cold, and reduces the oil break down when at high temperatures, and when you drain the engine oil it comes out with it so nothing to worry about.
Last edited:
Texx
Super Moderator
sx_turbo
Lifer
lol, yeah good point, ha ha
i meant the majority of it, except for the bits that cling to the surface
Texx
Super Moderator
Because I don't use the GT too often these days, I wired up a simple oil priming system.
Have an LED grounded off the stock oil pressure switch and a push to make button to bypass the starter circuit of the ignition switch, all isolated with a master 'arming' switch and relay. What this does is give the ability to crank the engine over until there is oil pressure in the main gallery without having the ignition on and the engine firing up before oil has circulated. The starter feed is still isolated by the alarms immobiliser, so the oil priming start button won't do anything when the alarm is armed. It also gave me a reason to install one of those red 'rocket launch' style switches on the dash. :haha:
My theory being that if there is oil pressure in the main oil gallery (indicated by the pressure LED going out) then chances are the remaining oil galleries and orifices will be primed with oil before I start the engine up.
Have an LED grounded off the stock oil pressure switch and a push to make button to bypass the starter circuit of the ignition switch, all isolated with a master 'arming' switch and relay. What this does is give the ability to crank the engine over until there is oil pressure in the main gallery without having the ignition on and the engine firing up before oil has circulated. The starter feed is still isolated by the alarms immobiliser, so the oil priming start button won't do anything when the alarm is armed. It also gave me a reason to install one of those red 'rocket launch' style switches on the dash. :haha:
My theory being that if there is oil pressure in the main oil gallery (indicated by the pressure LED going out) then chances are the remaining oil galleries and orifices will be primed with oil before I start the engine up.
Nice one TEXX they say the most damage is at startup but not your car. Definitely a few issues to consider.
I seems to me the issue is oil that flows best and clings best even with high g forces will not will not be thick enough to protect the bearings from vertical loads like the bumps you get on our terrible roads. So the oil thats best for the engine performance isn't going to cut it for bearings so some compromise is required.
I seems to me the issue is oil that flows best and clings best even with high g forces will not will not be thick enough to protect the bearings from vertical loads like the bumps you get on our terrible roads. So the oil thats best for the engine performance isn't going to cut it for bearings so some compromise is required.
HKS111
Member +
Just 1 and a half years and forged engine's gone. Don't quite understand, one piston broke at the skirt. The top of the pistons look fine, no sign of detonation whatsoever. Even the ringlands look fine, will upload some pics for you guys to give us your thoughts.
Some are saying that the bore of the cylinders were wrongly done and others are saying the piston might be defective.
Some are saying that the bore of the cylinders were wrongly done and others are saying the piston might be defective.