Ted
Member +
before you cause yourself more pain the vf35 is great but go over 1.4 bar and it will shit itself, guaranteed. :holdit:
speedvision valve springs
- Thread starter Dan-The-Glanza-Man
- Start date
before you cause yourself more pain the vf35 is great but go over 1.4 bar and it will shit itself, guaranteed. :holdit:
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
vf35 is on 1.5 bar ive had it on 2bar and its been fine dude alot of the td04 boys are running over 1.5 bar and there alright and thats alot smaller then a 35 so but must blow hot air around that boost
siilversurfer_69
Member +
Out of intrest has anyone else had any problems with there speedvision springs or is this the only case so far?
Who is running the springs and how long have you all been running them?
Who is running the springs and how long have you all been running them?
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
think loads of people have with there engine builders not being able to fit them proberly ive seen a few thread up on here about them, thats also how sam found out they wasent all great fits thats why he stated it on his page to cover him self :rockon:
sx_turbo
Lifer
even if direct fit as an engine builder should be checking the pressure of them to make sure there not over pressured as its well known now for these springs to bea pain and has been known the amount of threads up for a while now it was done 7months ago and been running for 5 months..... just thinking if was somones fault would i still have to rebuild and pay for it i dont mind the rebuild maybe but the money i just cant sit around and spend another 8 months of my wages sitting in each night spending on bits and bobs for another 5e
i would speak to nick and find out what he doing about it
i think a full engine replacement, but i know what these engine builders are like and they do there damdest to get out of things, and try and feed you loads of bullshit, and may even try blaming the brand of oil your were using lol.
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
also noticed the cams aint all that and wouldent say are a great set as the lubes have little chips in them like cheap metal and been wearing the shims away abit as there bit rough too
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
nicks not been in touch or replyed in 6 days
sx_turbo
Lifer
have you tried phoning mate?
what makes a good trader is how well they sort out an issue, without threatening calls or making you wait months and months before trying to wriggle out of things,
imo all issues should be sorted within weeks of the fault being found, not waiting 6 days to reply, and i know there are a lot of nicks mates on here so i'm sure someone will have mentioned this thread to him.
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
hmmm its a big thread i havent phoned him yet being polite first as i know most traders are busy people so thought id wait to see if it can be sorted by email ect
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
hopfully phoning him today im so behind last week was away on a course then had to come home as my other halfs in hospital and still is. also makes life hard when you havent got a car or got to borrow one when you can.....
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
fair comment sounds good to me dude..... dont know who i want to build it .... not to be rude but ive lost trust with all traders now lol ill build it all myself just didnt trust my self to do the head as we know why but now i no alot lot more about them and base pressure on starlets i want to do it myself....... its ruined my bottom end to scored the bore manged to sorce another 5e cheap but still got to be rebored ect skimmed.....
Last edited:
Well then do all the work lad and send Nick the Jones the Bill
Ders no maybe or ifs and ands its straight forward and needs to be sorted or people will start to lose faith in this site and the service its providing
regards
G
Tim@TBDevelopments
Lifer
been doing alot of research on this as i'm thinking about a set, and i'm not being funny but this isn't the fault of the builder! period.
i've been building engines for over 14 years now and have many toyota engines under my belt some approaching 1000bhp and reading this thread is a joke i'm afraid.
A competition valve spring should not exceed the uncompressed length of the standard item, most just use a more heavy grade steel to give the increased spring rate, or atleast using double valve springs to obtain this. The only checks that you should be doing with aftermarket springs are "uncompressed length" which is compared against each other and orignal springs, "Spring Rate" which compare against each other so they ballance. If any of these are wrong they go in the bin.
I know exactly whats happened here as we see it all the time with the other engines we build, these aren't developed at all they are a very similar spring from an america engine thats used as an upgrade for the 4efte. like how certain companys use Big Block chevy inner springs for a 3sgte replacement, as sold as direct fit when there actually longer.
Problem being is the guy who sells these, and there description. They shouldn't be sold as direct fit! should be sold with instructions showing whats needed to make them fit and they are a modification item.
Just my opinion, but i be blaming the seller not the builder.
i've been building engines for over 14 years now and have many toyota engines under my belt some approaching 1000bhp and reading this thread is a joke i'm afraid.
A competition valve spring should not exceed the uncompressed length of the standard item, most just use a more heavy grade steel to give the increased spring rate, or atleast using double valve springs to obtain this. The only checks that you should be doing with aftermarket springs are "uncompressed length" which is compared against each other and orignal springs, "Spring Rate" which compare against each other so they ballance. If any of these are wrong they go in the bin.
I know exactly whats happened here as we see it all the time with the other engines we build, these aren't developed at all they are a very similar spring from an america engine thats used as an upgrade for the 4efte. like how certain companys use Big Block chevy inner springs for a 3sgte replacement, as sold as direct fit when there actually longer.
Problem being is the guy who sells these, and there description. They shouldn't be sold as direct fit! should be sold with instructions showing whats needed to make them fit and they are a modification item.
Just my opinion, but i be blaming the seller not the builder.
braindamage
Member +
I personally agree as i bought a set of springs and cams <and i got problems>First off i tried fitting the cam and when i installed them i could not get it to turn over only to find out i had to have the head reshimmed .I had to resort to the stock cams with the speedvision spring and now i have alot of cylinder head noise .When i bought these parts,no one said anything had to be machined or anything like dat and at the end of the day it was described as a "DIRECT FIT".Lets face it ,because of the description of the parts ,the builder cant be blamed for this but the seller .Seeing that my engine is still work and no valve have dropped in de block, i gonna go back to stock valves springs and see what happens:argue:
siilversurfer_69
Member +
Any update on these? iv been running my speedvision cams and spring for about 300miles now and no probs as of yet.
did you machine the springs to fit or put them straight in?
reading all these threads has me worried.
i bought cams and springs and had them fitted by an engineering shop almost a year ago. at the time i was told it's a straight fit and no mention of any machining being necessary. i dont think they would remember if machining was done or not but i do remember them setting the shims etc.
motor makes no funny noises from valvetrain etc.
now we had my car on the dyno to run it in so only done a few km's .
must i now strip the head etc and put my old springs back in ?
what about the cruise springs do they also need machining?
i bought cams and springs and had them fitted by an engineering shop almost a year ago. at the time i was told it's a straight fit and no mention of any machining being necessary. i dont think they would remember if machining was done or not but i do remember them setting the shims etc.
motor makes no funny noises from valvetrain etc.
now we had my car on the dyno to run it in so only done a few km's .
must i now strip the head etc and put my old springs back in ?
what about the cruise springs do they also need machining?
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
i would use the springs maybe again with diff cams but the speed ones are pressin the springs down so much causing the springs to coil bind causing my whole forge engine to fuck up at the time i had no time to build my head had them all fitted to find the head so hard to turbo over and was told its normal due to high compression springs ive never turned a head over so head with a bar so i retorqued the cam caps and reoiled and was better and 2000miles later of dear as im sure some of you have seen pictures lol