Still, cant start my car! >.<

J25GTi

J25GTi

Lifer
scot-ish said:
bump start the car.

what is the battery voltage?

does the alarm have an imobiliser?

edit, ignore the bump, never seen the above before posted
Click to expand...

No worries lol, Battery voltage was 11.9v, IIRC been a day or two since i last did anything with it so dont remember exactly!
 
scot-ish

scot-ish

Member +
sounds electrical mate, more so, immobiliser to me, well its where i'd be looking first. wouldnt say its the starter from that, but im no pro with these cars.
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
If you try and start the engine with the headlights on, do they go dim or stay lit up bright?
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
the clicking noise is the solenoid on the starter motor.

replace the battery it should work.

if not then the starter motor may need replacing but i doubt this
 
J25GTi

J25GTi

Lifer
Ricky@JAP MAD said:
scrap that i should have read the whole post.

its something to do with your starter
Click to expand...

Ill have a look at the starter tonight when i finish work, wont start with jump leads, charging the battery, or a new battery, just seems to be dead, so ill have a look at the starter tonight :)
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
If the clicking is coming from the fuse box, it's likely to be the starter motor relay. I can't see how a relay could fail in a way that will result in it switching on and off rapidly, so that makes me think there is a low battery voltage or high earth resistance causing it to act in such a way.

Can you measure battery voltage across the battery terminals when your trying to crank the engine? You may see a static battery voltage of around 12v, but when you apply the electrical load of the starter motor to it, the voltage could drop off significantly. This will have an adverse affect on all electrical consumers and components on the car.

A scenario to possibly explain why the starter motor relay would rapidly switch on and off: Battery voltage is at 12v, ignition switch is switched to the start position, the electro magnet in the starter relay is energised and pulls the switching contacts together, the starter motor solenoid is then energised and switches power to the starter motor, electrical load of the starter motor pulls battery voltage down to less than 6v, the drop in battery voltage causes the electro magnet in the starter relay to collapse and the switching contacts open, the starter motor solenoid is powered down and the starter motor disengaged, with the electrical load of the starter motor relieved from the battery, battery voltage returns to 12v and the process starts all over again.

If this is the case, then that leaves a few questions. Is there a poor live connection to the battery? Is there a poor earth connection to the battery? Is the battery in good condition (even though it is new)? Is the engine locked and the starter motor is not physically able to crank it over?

That last question makes me ask you, are you 110% sure that no foreign object has been able to drop down into the engine through the throttle body?

If you are unsure on this, I would suggest removing the spark plugs, lifting one front wheel off the ground (both if you have a LSD), putting the gearbox in 4th gear and then rotate the wheel to see if the engine turns over.

If it does turn then you can start to look at possible electrical faults, if the engine will not turn, you have a problem.
 
J25GTi

J25GTi

Lifer
Texx said:
If the clicking is coming from the fuse box, it's likely to be the starter motor relay. I can't see how a relay could fail in a way that will result in it switching on and off rapidly, so that makes me think there is a low battery voltage or high earth resistance causing it to act in such a way.

Can you measure battery voltage across the battery terminals when your trying to crank the engine? You may see a static battery voltage of around 12v, but when you apply the electrical load of the starter motor to it, the voltage could drop off significantly. This will have an adverse affect on all electrical consumers and components on the car.

A scenario to possibly explain why the starter motor relay would rapidly switch on and off: Battery voltage is at 12v, ignition switch is switched to the start position, the electro magnet in the starter relay is energised and pulls the switching contacts together, the starter motor solenoid is then energised and switches power to the starter motor, electrical load of the starter motor pulls battery voltage down to less than 6v, the drop in battery voltage causes the electro magnet in the starter relay to collapse and the switching contacts open, the starter motor solenoid is powered down and the starter motor disengaged, with the electrical load of the starter motor relieved from the battery, battery voltage returns to 12v and the process starts all over again.

If this is the case, then that leaves a few questions. Is there a poor live connection to the battery? Is there a poor earth connection to the battery? Is the battery in good condition (even though it is new)? Is the engine locked and the starter motor is not physically able to crank it over?

That last question makes me ask you, are you 110% sure that no foreign object has been able to drop down into the engine through the throttle body?

If you are unsure on this, I would suggest removing the spark plugs, lifting one front wheel off the ground (both if you have a LSD), putting the gearbox in 4th gear and then rotate the wheel to see if the engine turns over.

If it does turn then you can start to look at possible electrical faults, if the engine will not turn, you have a problem.
Click to expand...


Texx, your a legend, More rep for everyone!

I will jack it up tonight, and start checking earths etc etc, and see if i can find something. Battery was brand new, my mate bought it brand new for his car 2 days ago and i tried it before he fitted it to his car, and it worked on his car fine!
 
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