just my opinion but if the drop links have been on for years or since new, they will be so much hassle to take off. i've lowered a few corollas i've had (i'm guessing the links are similar) and i've saved so much time and heartache by just buying new drop links. they are around €13 or less (spurious in ireland) for a pair, they will save you that in time and swearing!!!
trd anti roll bar v's stock
- Thread starter monka
- Start date
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
I would agree, this is why the WL is a nice attractive choice as you get new links but not good for the guys that had Starlets that came with TRD already installed. WL has the only ARB available for the back apart from UR and it's quite nice to match materials like for like so you don't get any variations from front to back.
If you also look on Yahoo Auctions you can get rose jointed links for the EP82's with Urethane bushes we had some for the demo car but these were one of the first things to sell.
Interested to see how you get on with those links you found good man Gryzor you certainly are a dab hand on the internet rep added!
T
If you also look on Yahoo Auctions you can get rose jointed links for the EP82's with Urethane bushes we had some for the demo car but these were one of the first things to sell.
Interested to see how you get on with those links you found good man Gryzor you certainly are a dab hand on the internet rep added!
T
Gryzor
Admin
Received all the bushings thanks to postmen everywhere 
All set for a fitting tomorrow morning, even got an set of very expensive
drop-links from Mr. Denso in Rathgar they should fit nicely on the end of the trd lower arbs.
I'll update the other thread this evening on how the new bushings fit the wishbones.
All set for a fitting tomorrow morning, even got an set of very expensive
drop-links from Mr. Denso in Rathgar they should fit nicely on the end of the trd lower arbs.
I'll update the other thread this evening on how the new bushings fit the wishbones.
sx_turbo
Lifer
sx_turbo
Lifer
i been after a set of these for ages, bleeding hard to find
Gryzor
Admin
The bushings for the drop links ?
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
No he means the whole new links, there re-designed links with red poly bushes. Thanks for info on TRD ARB mate. If you do have stock links with your TRD ARB we can supply poly bushes for the stock links, coming out soon.
T
T
Gryzor
Admin
sx_turbo
Lifer
yeah i want them funky links,
i bought a set of zep poly bushes for it, but there to small and just eventually fall through the hole in the wishbone
Gryzor
Admin
Do you think it would be worth using a set of whiteline poly bushing for the drop links ? They're a good bit bigger than the oem 1s.
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sx_turbo
Lifer
dont think they sell them seperately
WallaceGlanza
Member +
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Yeah you can get them but 6-8 week wait as they won't split kits. These are the bushes I meant but not the rose jointed links sold those and just added the poly bushes to the old links so I can sell the front ARB with some bushes:
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Good info rep added
T
T
Nick_Glanza
Fresh Recruit
Suspension tuning isnt as simple as you think, the norm for fitting thickers arb's is for it to understeer more, thinner bars make it more oversteery, but, you gotta into account the spring rates and the damping of the dampers!
It really does depend on how you like your car to handle, slightly loose (oversteery) or abit tight (understeery)
It really does depend on how you like your car to handle, slightly loose (oversteery) or abit tight (understeery)
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Agreed, we never run the 24mm, even had a 22mm on the demo car more than enough. Rear ARB is the one you need as our little ones don't have them as standard due to rear fixed axle.
It's all a careful balance but luckily people like me have done all the leg work so you don't have too. Regardless a little more understeer is easy to manage, FWD are a doddle to drive on the limit, 4WD and RWD whole new ball game.
Ideally I would never want a FWD car with oversteer but everyone will be different. Oversteer on Starlets is usually attributed to mis aligned rear axles (not running an adjustable panhard rod or having one that isn't setup properly), no rear brace, not having a roll cage, no rear ARB, poorly selected shock bound/rebound/spring rates etc etc, the floor plans are also really thin, hell it was a town car not a racing car Toyota didn't intend it to be but that can all be changed with some little head work
If you want a true track monster roll cage is essential, not for safety but merely to stiffen the chassis, the more points the better and imo front strut triangulation bars are essential to make it all one complete frame otherwise you get excessive flex. Regardless a simple bolt in will make the world of difference you just need to way up what the car will be used for, what you want and what the overall outcome will be. For some a roll cage just isn't practical but everyone will have different needs.
You either make compromises for practicality and comfort with the loss of a little handling, or you go all out, no messing and make it as good as you can impossible to have the best of both worlds.
T
It's all a careful balance but luckily people like me have done all the leg work so you don't have too. Regardless a little more understeer is easy to manage, FWD are a doddle to drive on the limit, 4WD and RWD whole new ball game.
Ideally I would never want a FWD car with oversteer but everyone will be different. Oversteer on Starlets is usually attributed to mis aligned rear axles (not running an adjustable panhard rod or having one that isn't setup properly), no rear brace, not having a roll cage, no rear ARB, poorly selected shock bound/rebound/spring rates etc etc, the floor plans are also really thin, hell it was a town car not a racing car Toyota didn't intend it to be but that can all be changed with some little head work
If you want a true track monster roll cage is essential, not for safety but merely to stiffen the chassis, the more points the better and imo front strut triangulation bars are essential to make it all one complete frame otherwise you get excessive flex. Regardless a simple bolt in will make the world of difference you just need to way up what the car will be used for, what you want and what the overall outcome will be. For some a roll cage just isn't practical but everyone will have different needs.
You either make compromises for practicality and comfort with the loss of a little handling, or you go all out, no messing and make it as good as you can impossible to have the best of both worlds.
T
Nick_Glanza
Fresh Recruit
Totally agree toby, im not clued on these cars yet, but it seems the rear end is quite loose anyway imo and could do with a rear anti roll bar!
Bolt in cages arent that great for chassis stiffening, bolt ins allow movement of the cage which isnt a great thing for a chassis, weld in is the only way to go if you are going for a cage, secondly if the car is going to be used on the road more than on track a cage in a road car is a fatal idea! Seen so many threads of people dying on the roads because theyve smacked there heads on the cage in a crash!
Toby do you know what the standard springs spring rates are in lb's? for front and rear?
Bolt in cages arent that great for chassis stiffening, bolt ins allow movement of the cage which isnt a great thing for a chassis, weld in is the only way to go if you are going for a cage, secondly if the car is going to be used on the road more than on track a cage in a road car is a fatal idea! Seen so many threads of people dying on the roads because theyve smacked there heads on the cage in a crash!
Toby do you know what the standard springs spring rates are in lb's? for front and rear?