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I run on the upper circlip. The lower one lowered the car too far and caused the tyre to scrape the guards. I think youll find the lower circlip is meant for use on a different car that the shock also fits.

The PCB in the box doesnt look like a speaker amp at all. It has a RF module on it, so im thinking its either a radio tuner addon for the radio, or am immobilizer?

Neither. If your AFC is tuned correctly, you dont need the FCD at all.

Go with an electronic one if you have the option, they work much better.

Do you know how a FCD and SAFC work? I mean the theory behind them? If you do, then you know a FCD isnt required as well as the SAFC will keep the map voltage below fuel cut if tuned properly.

Youll have to get a new one welded in anyway. Youll need to keep the normal sensor for closed-loop running.

Im thinking about doing this shortly too... Ive heard people say that painting the mani before putting on the wrap, and then also painting the wrap after is a good way to stop rusting problems. Anyone have comments on this? I gather this wrap (the Hi Temp Graphite (Black) Fibreglass) is good...

Put some Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001's on it. They are a brilliant wet weather tyre, and very good in the dry too.

Ahh, what a wank fest.... The only time multiple grounding cables like this makes a difference is when the factory car has inadequate grounding (Starlets have good grounding), or when the factory cables/connectors have become faulty. Put it on a dyno before and after adding the cables and...

The gasket is phenolic. Its a well known material and has been used a lot on engines where heat isolation is required. In fact they have been used as inlet-manifold->carb spacers since the 60's. Google it: http://www.google.com.au/search?q=phenolic+inlet+spacer&btnG=Google+Search

A blocked or stuck open PCV valve would not cause this unless you have screwed around with the PCV system in other ways. Got a photo of your engine bay? Considering the good compression numbers, i think you have dead valve stem seals.

Sounds good. Maybe you should start a new thread... a worklog of what your doing, pics, etc as your getting it going?

That standard hose has lasted ~15yrs. Why do you need something that lasts longer? Or is it really bling factor your after?

SordFish... Any more details on what youve had to do to get the MS running? Im thinking about doing this soon. Any base maps available for the 4E-FTE?

Hi all, Ive got the opportunity to buy a set of cams from a 5E-FHE. The only problem is they are coming from the early non-ACIS manifold version engine. Does anyone know if this early version of the engine had the same higher lift cams that the later ACIS version had? I have an EP82 with...

Primer paints are (mostly) porous, never use them as a top coat. Use an under-body / chassis sealer.

Get Bridgestone Adrenalins RE001. Awesome tyre (performance tyre of the year 2008) and they are not expensive in 195/50/15.

They are Koni Red's.

I think all red's are compress & turn. Some yellows are compress & turn, others have dials.

Are you sure they are Koni inserts? What model number?