Forged engine rattle thats concerning me

Skalabala

Member +
Test if your valves like to move. You should be able to compress the spring a little by forcing it down by pushing the bucket with your thumbs.
If they move freely then you might not have a sticky valve.
 
what i mean is that forged pistons when cold are natrually rattly

not that bad tho only a tiny hard type noise but silent once hot id say if it rattles that bad ur bores have been bored slightly to big or are very worn and the noise u get is known as piston slap not forged pistons !
 

Martin Broon

Member +

Martin Broon

Member +
yes well cant go pointing fingers at some 1, as you do take a risk buying a second hand forged engine, but oh well, ive never had any problems
my self both engines built by CCM and zisco but their seems to be alot of people with this problem.
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
not that bad tho only a tiny hard type noise but silent once hot id say if it rattles that bad ur bores have been bored slightly to big or are very worn and the noise u get is known as piston slap not forged pistons !

i did say when cold, and the bore clearance is also dependent on application, on both forged engines i have owned the pistob slap although quiter when warm hadnt completely dissapeared.

I know that wossner and wiseco pistons each have different bore to piston clearances depending on the level of tune the engine is supposedly gonna be built to,

i know when i had the engine machined the engineer asked me what it was going to be used for and i said track days and high boost 24psi, and i had the intention of changing the turbo at a later date and running 2bar possibly so the enginner chose the larger of the clearances,

going for this larger clearance meant that the engine was consistently rattly, although it was quieter when hot it wasnt exactly silent, now because of this larger clearance being used the engine was never gonna last forever as effectively it was a race engine and therefore should have regular strip downs and refreshs,

basicly you cant say that the engine has been overbored just cos its a bit rattly if you dont know what its been built to.
 

clarkytrd

Member +
This sounds exactly like my new forged engine,

My car is down at the engine builders now getting sorted so I will let you know the problem as soon as possible!
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
This sounds exactly like my new forged engine,

My car is down at the engine builders now getting sorted so I will let you know the problem as soon as possible!



you getting that loud ticking noise?

the other noise the light rattle is normal, the loud ticking noise is not
 

Iain@CRD

Lifer
Our black car has this issue ever since it was rebuilt for the second time and has had this noise for over a year which we are still yet to identify but can confirm it is doing no damage.

Still yet to locate where the rattle is but im confident its valvetrain related. Unfortunately for us, our cams are tensioned correctly, all shimmed up correctly also with the correct clearences and haven't discovered since we've not had the chance yet to delve deeper. But i believe Texx is on the right track with is being 1 or 2 valves possibly sticking.
 

Texx

Super Moderator
It does amaze me somewhat that the amount of money some people spend on an engine rebuild, buying fancy parts and having unnecessary cylinder head porting and polishing etc... yet many still fail to have the valve stem to guide clearance checked and valves/guides replaced if necessary.

The last 3 4E heads I've rebuilt have required new valve guides for all 8 exhaust valves due to excessive wear and clearance, inlet valves and guides to not seem to suffer so much as the exhaust side.
 

Iain@CRD

Lifer
It does amaze me somewhat that the amount of money some people spend on an engine rebuild, buying fancy parts and having unnecessary cylinder head porting and polishing etc... yet many still fail to have the valve stem to guide clearance checked and valves/guides replaced if necessary.

The last 3 4E heads I've rebuilt have required new valve guides for all 8 exhaust valves due to excessive wear and clearance, inlet valves and guides to not seem to suffer so much as the exhaust side.

This is definately our next course of action to strip the valves out the head as we know its more than likely valvetrain as you've said Texx. Alot of "buiders" do over look the head and just slap a port and polish on it and thats it.
 

Luke.R

Member +
Not 100% sure on what to do with it really, I mean none of the clearances are excessive now, some seem a bit tight, but that won't make it rattle. slightly gutting that it's sounding like a fucked Ford KA to be honest.

If I'm honest I haven't tryed to push the lifters down yet to see if theres any that stick, and I really don't want to take it apart and waste a MLS gasket and headbolts when I've just forked out £1500 for the engine.

Just feel like breaking it even though I love the car it's just causing me too much trouble :(
 

wildchild

Member +
just check the valve shims mate. all you will need is another gasket. try it. no point in trying to fill your mind with doubts and headaches. remove the head and check piston heads for any sighs of valve lash or knocking of valves on piston crown. readjust the valve timing and check for worn out shims.
best of luck.
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
It does amaze me somewhat that the amount of money some people spend on an engine rebuild, buying fancy parts and having unnecessary cylinder head porting and polishing etc... yet many still fail to have the valve stem to guide clearance checked and valves/guides replaced if necessary.

The last 3 4E heads I've rebuilt have required new valve guides for all 8 exhaust valves due to excessive wear and clearance, inlet valves and guides to not seem to suffer so much as the exhaust side.

i know that when i had the head originally ported before he could grind the valve guides down he had to make sure there was no play in them, so i can say that 16000 miles ago roughly the valve guides were ok.

also when td rebuilt the engine they should have checked them again, maybe they did and they could have gone wafty in the last 6000 miles,

its a bit difficult to speculate what has and hasnt been done when you werent the person at the centre of it all happening,
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
just to reiterate,

the rattle is normal, the loud ticking noise however isnt.

it sounds like top end but in my experience it was the pistons,

have no idea what that loud ticking noise is,

have you spoken to simon and td?? can they shed any light as they were the ones with the experience of this particular engine,
 

mork

Member +
Sorry to hijack this thread slightly, but how do you check if there is excessive valve guide clearance? Is this done with the seals in place or removed?
 

wildchild

Member +
Sorry to hijack this thread slightly, but how do you check if there is excessive valve guide clearance? Is this done with the seals in place or removed?

slide the valve along the guide and move it sideways to see if there is any play/side to side movement or else falls through very loosely. You have to check without the seals mate. if the guides are worn the valve will be loose or there will be too much of free movement of the valves along the guides.
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Sorry to hijack this thread slightly, but how do you check if there is excessive valve guide clearance? Is this done with the seals in place or removed?

valveguidecheck.png
 
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