Over Fueling
- Thread starter lleey2k4
- Start date
the stock fuel regulators are fine...
get a fuel adjuster like a SAFC or something similar , and the benifits and results are well worth it , over a crappy regulator change..
it's common to see a starlet run 10.0AF's at the top end..heaps rich..
use the SAFC to tune the AF's correctly across the revrange , and the car will have more power and be nicer to drive...
get a fuel adjuster like a SAFC or something similar , and the benifits and results are well worth it , over a crappy regulator change..
it's common to see a starlet run 10.0AF's at the top end..heaps rich..
use the SAFC to tune the AF's correctly across the revrange , and the car will have more power and be nicer to drive...
Monkfish
Member +
sx_turbo
Lifer
Quoted for truth.
ha ha ha, yes you can get an rrfpr, but if you go for the sard version, it actually works out cheaper to buy a second hand s-afc from ebay. between £60-100 on ebay.
im not arguing with you monkfish, i'm just saying there is another option.
both rrfpr and safc work perfectly fine, and at the end of the day its down to the owner of said car to decide what he/she should have
no , but they are a great product, used a few of them in starlets..
to adjust the AF's thats how i do it..it's accurate and reliable..
Throughout the entire revrange , you can fine tune the AF's to whatever you want them to be..
i prefer to run the car on the stock ECU rather than replace it with an emanage or microtech etc...especially for CT9 setups..
everything in the car is controlled by the stock ECU , and just override the AF's with the safc..and you get the same result because the stock ignition curve is very good..
but if i was going to run a big boost forged motor , then i'd get a quality replacement like an autronic..
the emanage is a cheap option for higher boost applications, and having the ability to adjust the ignition is ok , but if i was going to spend money on a decent engine/turbo build , i'd spend the extra money for a better standalone ECU that has much better adjustability..
we get the SAFC's cheaper than the emanage , so thats why we head in that direction..
the stock ECU ignition curve is pretty good , it's only the fueling that the issue...
with the TD04l we just did with the safc and stock ECU, 185 at the tyres on 14psi , with 12.1 AF's...
with another starlet with the same setup , but with an LT8's microtech , it only made 3hp more. in similar boost and tune spec.
the emanage is allright , it's a bit of a prick to setup and tune but it does the job..we just like the ease of use with the safc's for the results we are getting, for the mods we have..
we have an EP91 here that we just finished a TD04 conversion , thats running an emanage for the higher boost ability , so we'll have a play with that on the dyno soon.just got an overheating issue to sort out...see what happens soon..
we get the SAFC's cheaper than the emanage , so thats why we head in that direction..
the stock ECU ignition curve is pretty good , it's only the fueling that the issue...
with the TD04l we just did with the safc and stock ECU, 185 at the tyres on 14psi , with 12.1 AF's...
with another starlet with the same setup , but with an LT8's microtech , it only made 3hp more. in similar boost and tune spec.
the emanage is allright , it's a bit of a prick to setup and tune but it does the job..we just like the ease of use with the safc's for the results we are getting, for the mods we have..
we have an EP91 here that we just finished a TD04 conversion , thats running an emanage for the higher boost ability , so we'll have a play with that on the dyno soon.just got an overheating issue to sort out...see what happens soon..
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Jay
Admin
Anyhow, back to the question at hand.
You don't mention your current setup but say you haven't touched 1 bar of boost yet. In my experience the stock system will run rich on boost levels below a bar so there is little to worry about.
**This naturally doesn't cover component faults so everyone should do the needful fuelling check rather than take such a statement as gospel.
For future plans I would advise the safe approach:
To increase the fuelling use a RRFR
To reduce the fuelling use a SAFC
This way if the electrics pack up she won't blow up.
Hope that makes sense mate.
yeah , emanage ultimate is supposidly a better unit , never used one tho..
13.6:1 on idle is allright , but idle is totally different to revs under load...
if it was running 10.0 at idle , the thing wouldn't idle smooth, letalone rev lol..
it's not necessary to run rich at WOT , wasting fuel and loosing efficency...
a correctly set AF range will give better throttle response and power , while saving fuel and not harming the engine at all....
13.6:1 on idle is allright , but idle is totally different to revs under load...
if it was running 10.0 at idle , the thing wouldn't idle smooth, letalone rev lol..
it's not necessary to run rich at WOT , wasting fuel and loosing efficency...
a correctly set AF range will give better throttle response and power , while saving fuel and not harming the engine at all....
C
CaL
Guest
lee you dont need to worry about it as much as it running lean...slightly rich mixture is better than lean
GTti
Member +
This subject is really annoying me.
I'm fully aware that 13.6:1 on idle is ok, it's still a little rich. My plugs were BLACK all over apart from some of the electrode (For info I do not throw out any black smoke). This is on a standard CB80 ECU.
I'm perfectly happy with that, I know Daihatsu and Toyota fueled the engines this way to keep cylinder head temperatures down and aid reliability. If I'd of pulled out the plug and it looked melted or scorched I would be worried. Infact the rally GTti's in the early 90's ran so rich that the plugs had to be changed when the engine was warm - but the end result was reliability which I'm sure helped Terry Kaby win the Lombard Rally in a GTti!
I have no doubt that most standard 4EFTE's will last 130k miles or more and still have good compression due to the safetly measures in place. No wonder as soon as most of the people on these forums get hold of a tune their engine lasts not even a 10th of that figure.
If you're chasing economy then sure, running reasonably lean will help.
Risking a heaviliy modified engine for the sake of a few BHP is crazy.
I think 10.5 / 11.5:1 on WOT is the prefered figure and a good compromise. And recently we've seen / proved this is how Toyota mapped the car in the first place. Use it as a guide I say.
You have to be careful with tuners, they cater for the general public. They'll apply techniques and values from other engines to your engine and it won't always be the best or safest.
Just my opinion.
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