Td04 Users And Civic Rads?????

Rory

Lifer
I think its nothing to do with the gasket.
If the head was checked with a straight edge, in my book, that isnt good practice.
.002" of an inch is enough for a head to blow, a straight edge wont see this.

IE: 1 strand of hair is approx .007".

My car was doing this a while back, and the head was gubbed.
Skimmed it, new gasket, and its going like a young een. This was all before the rebuild.
 

steveep82

Member +
I Never had the problem of water overflowing into the expansion tank with the exact same rad Nicks using until my headgasket went on the rollers, then it would only throw water out if i boosted it. Im now running a speedvision HG, and so far no problems, although i havent used more than .5 bar and 5000rpm. Ill let you know how i get on when my car is mapped at 1.2-1.6bar.. Im now using a haste engineering civic 3 row all aluminium rad and its awesome, if i have my fan on it will run at below 70 degrees so its doing the job just grand
 

Dub-Se7en

Lifer
i know i've said it before but it's worth pointing out again,remember to check the block for warping too, as my head was spot on, but the block had warped.
 

speedvision

Member +
Any of the ppl running td04's with civic rads have any issue's with pushing coolant into the overflow bottle and then overflowing the overflow bottle??

HEY is the rad double or single core?

if the rad aint cooling well it can also increase temps and make the water pushing out the bottle and also blow ur gasket

sam
 

Kelly

Member +
OK to clear things up...........

i originally put this thread up talking on behalf of nick (jones36) but also explained that our car is doing it too although our car is a blitz k24 and can run a max of 1.5bar!

Nobody pointed the finger at speedvision ppl asked questions about the gaskets and we didnt know the answer, never once blamed him or the gasket i was hoping gasket stuff wouldnt come up in this thread lol (wishfull thinking)
 

Kelly

Member +
HEY is the rad double or single core?

if the rad aint cooling well it can also increase temps and make the water pushing out the bottle and also blow ur gasket

sam

lol not sure?! it seems to be one out of a corrolla of some sort?! kinda big almost same as the standard rad on the AUTO gt.
 

Gee

Member +
now using a haste engineering civic 3 row all aluminium rad and its awesome, if i have my fan on it will run at below 70 degrees so its doing the job just grand

Got a link?

I struggle to get anything over 72c at the moment unless stuck in traffic, but once I get moving it drops again easily which is fine. It is cold this time of the year thou.

BTW, what water temps are ideal? I know the water is to cool the engine, but does it not also help warm the oil faster?
 
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Jay

Admin
That is correct Gee, if the cooling system is too effective the engine will run below a healthy temperature increasing engine wear and reducing engine life.

Something to note for those of you running a low-temp thermostat.
 

Gee

Member +
So..what is an ideal water temp? I read in the 70's may be too cold, BUT I can still get to 80c/90c with the water at this temp, so cant be a problem. A water temp in the 60's sounds kind of dodgy?
 

Streetech

Member +
So..what is an ideal water temp? I read in the 70's may be too cold, BUT I can still get to 80c/90c with the water at this temp, so cant be a problem. A water temp in the 60's sounds kind of dodgy?

A typical standard road car operates at a temperature around 90°c where as race engines "ideally" operate around the 75 - 80°c
 

weeJohn

Lifer
I have tried a few things to cure this, my set up is a TD04 and a civic rad.

Before I go any further, I had a problem before with the stock rad and ct9, running 1 bar. It pushed out water once or twice in the summer, after a good ragging. Using a rad flush sorted it out.

I replaced my stock civic rad with an "e bay" 55mm one. It ballooned under the pressure in the system after a lengthy test run. I removed it, flushed the system, fitted a speedvision gasket, used new bolts and checked block and previously skimmed head for warping, and replaced the new water pump I fitted (a 4EFE 6 blade impellor) with the old stock water pump and the problem was solved.

Until yesterday when I noticed the temp rising after a hard long run. I have found that the fan comes on about 93 degrees by my guage. But it goes OFF at about 98 degrees, the coolant can then reach 105 degrees. I dont know why the fan does this, but its not a cause of overflow bottle problems as running it all the time just delays it.

I have come to this conclusion.

Increasing the system pressure by the cap only increase the boiling point of the coolant, but once it leaves the cap, it is under less pressure, hence coolant leaving the cap at 105 degrees, is not boiling in the system as it is under pressure, but it boils as soon as it leaves the pressurised system (in the pipe and overfow bottle). This boiling water then heats and aerates the coolant in the bottle, causing it to expand and bubble out.

I think the standard cooling system does struggle to keep higher power engines cool, I am not sure if the smaller rad is the problem. I think the civic rad is more efficient so I dont think it is the cause.

I dont think its the water cooled turbos as I have ran without the water lines on and it made no difference.

I have thought that getting a larger capacity of water through the head might help, Dub 7 has started this in his rebuild, but the diameter of the holes in the head gasket kind of determine how much coolant flows. I am thinking the less time it spends in there the less it gets heated.

A faster turning water pump could also help, this can be achieved with a smaller pulley on the water pump, I have looked for one but had no luck. Maybe one could be made.

Remember the best coolant is pure water. Antifreeze makes water boil quicker, due to reducing its coheision, water wetter returns it to the same properties as pure water only.

It is possible my head gasket has gone again after 3 months, I am running nearly 1.4 bar, I am waiting a while before looking back at that.

Thats enough shite from me, I hope you have not all lost the will to live!!
 

Kelly

Member +
thing is tho on the gauge the water never gets too hot / overheats never goes above 85 degree's especially when accelerating its just afterwards when you come to look in bay lost water!

again can some answer if having the head skimmed and pressure testing when doing the headgasket last, would any warping have shown up then? coz all this was done.
 

Monkfish

Member +
thing is tho on the gauge the water never gets too hot / overheats never goes above 85 degree's especially when accelerating its just afterwards when you come to look in bay lost water!

In that case is it entirely possible that the pump is too strong? I'm thinking that if all it is doing is pushing water out under WOT then it is over pressuring the system. The reason you would get overheating is because as the water is pushed out into the expansion bottle (Then over the road :p) there is less and less in the car, which eventually boils over and you overheat. If the car isn't overheating but is still spitting water out, that's the only cause I can think of other than a knackered HG. :confused:
 

gedis

Member +
Got a link?

I struggle to get anything over 72c at the moment unless stuck in traffic, but once I get moving it drops again easily which is fine. It is cold this time of the year thou.

BTW, what water temps are ideal? I know the water is to cool the engine, but does it not also help warm the oil faster?

x2 for link
 

Kelly

Member +
In that case is it entirely possible that the pump is too strong? I'm thinking that if all it is doing is pushing water out under WOT then it is over pressuring the system. The reason you would get overheating is because as the water is pushed out into the expansion bottle (Then over the road :p) there is less and less in the car, which eventually boils over and you overheat. If the car isn't overheating but is still spitting water out, that's the only cause I can think of other than a knackered HG. :confused:

yeh your originally paragraph on water pump made sense, i guess the best thing to do is rule out the headgasket tho rather than change the pump for nothing?
Nick said he will bring the sniffer test thing hope from work to test the cars!

thanks for everyone's replies nice to all get involved :)
 

Dub-Se7en

Lifer
again can some answer if having the head skimmed and pressure testing when doing the headgasket last, would any warping have shown up then? coz all this was done.

you skim a head to remove any warping and also for a clean face to seal the HG. but you could be looking at the wrong face (*cough, cough* block ;) )

get the sniffer test done first and hopefully it'll narrow down the cause :)
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
the thing i dont understand is that cruise and zep, and hrf and jam and other tuning firms, dont seem to have this problem.

so im thinking that maybe the problem lies elsewhere and not with the cooling system not being up to scratch
 

CONDOMEN

Fresh Recruit
hi Mate

Why not try using low temp termostat. I've bought one from Dave and i have
not got this issue again. Problem has been solved. I can go up to 1.2bar and still no problem....
 
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