4efte problem (video inside)
- Thread starter ahmedsalem89
- Start date
ahmedsalem89
Member +
I did not try to check for fault codes I have always thought that the check light must be on to check for faults,
can i check even if the check engine light is not on (on for a second and then off like in my case?)
I tried before, unplugged both o2 sensors and kept them in Their place but the problem was still there
Texx
Super Moderator
Every time the check light comes on the ECU stores a code for the malfunction it has detected (with the exception of a couple of scenarios). If your hitting fuel cut then the ECU will store code 34. Run a diagnostic check and see which codes have been stored, then reset the ECU (by pulling the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery for more than 30 seconds), drive the car again until the fault reoccurs and then recheck for codes to confirm that the stored codes are relevant to the issue your experiencing.
If your getting code 34 then my advise is to keep the engine off boost and get a boost gauge installed ASAP.
ahmedsalem89
Member +
Thanks for the info man, do u have a link on how to run a diag.?
ahmedsalem89
Member +
Did a diag. using a device that plugs into the diag. check connector and it showed no codes or faults and both sensors working I took a glimpse at the screen it said o2 signal lean twice
took the injectors out and cleaned them and checked fuel pressure but the problem is still there
no I'm starting to susbect the distributor cap as had one of the 5 connectors broken and fixed before
could it be the reason?
took the injectors out and cleaned them and checked fuel pressure but the problem is still there
no I'm starting to susbect the distributor cap as had one of the 5 connectors broken and fixed before
could it be the reason?
ahmedsalem89
Member +
Distributor cap is working fine despite the previously glued crack
I was suspecting the ECU now so I got another one from a friend, have been driving for a day and it actually drives fine, will have to do more testing just to make sure it was the reason
I was suspecting the ECU now so I got another one from a friend, have been driving for a day and it actually drives fine, will have to do more testing just to make sure it was the reason
corofin12345
Member +
finding it hard to believe no codes were stored... you using a maf sensor or map sensor??
try a flash code test this time using a piece of wire or paper clip and follow the instructions texx posted in the last page
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ahmedsalem89
Member +
I'll try that but right now I doubt it'll show any codes as since I replaced the ECU the car is running fine
and I'm using a map sensor
corofin12345
Member +
if the EML comes on at all, codes will be stored in the ECU.. it will probably come again with the new ECU at some stage....
ahmedsalem89
Member +
sry but can u please explain ?
corofin12345
Member +
once the EML "engine management light" comes on, a code is automatically stored into the ECU..... however, these codes will erase once the ECU is disconnected or the battery is disconnected for a period of time...... ive rerely seen an actual fault with a 4EFTE ECU but at that, if there was a problem with the ECU the EML would stay on all the time.... to me it looks like the ECU was picking up a code from a sensor.. if the EML comes on again with the new ECU, do a flash code diagnostic via the diagnosis port.... TE1 & E1
ahmedsalem89
Member +
I get it now thanx a lot, so if it's a sensor problem it'll rise again on the new ECU. but what makes me 90% sure it was a ECU problem is that when I first got the engine it used to shut down a lot and when I inspected it, I found that the ECU cover plate was slightly damaged causing it to overheat and shut the engine off and to fix that issue I just unscrewed the plate and unbend the bend it had and screwed it again on. so I suspect that the damage was more than just that.
anyway I drove the car yesterday again for 6 hours in a row on different circumstances just to make sure and until now it's fine. I pray that the problem has ended and it'll never rise again so I can concentrate and work more on the car itself
ahmedsalem89
Member +
Took the car on the highway after I got a boost gauge and replaced the ECU and now I'm experiencing something different the engine cuts steady at around 0.7~0.8 par on the gauge I believe it is boost cut as it was at the same amount of boost at the second, third and fourth gear until i upshift. The engine is stock how come I'm reaching boost cut?, boost creep maybe??
Sry for all these questions but u guys are really helpful
Sry for all these questions but u guys are really helpful
corofin12345
Member +
fuel cut... if everything is stock it should be around .65 of a bar of boost.. seeing that its boosting .7 to .8, theres something up... could possibly be a badly cracked wastegate..... you could try using a more restrictive filter to see if it helps
ahmedsalem89
Member +
yeah everything is stock except for the air intake I use a dual inlet Simota cone and a short pipe, I inspected the wastegate a while ago and it was fine.
but just to make Sure, reasons for reaching boost cut are only air filters or wastegate malfunctions?
would a tune fix anything?
corofin12345
Member +
nope, a tune wont lower boost mate.. try use a more restrictive filter so and maybe a singe inlet over the duel one
ahmedsalem89
Member +
thanks man I'm planning on a Mushroom one soon, I just though a tune my raise the fuel cut limit so it won't cut as soon.
corofin12345
Member +
fuel cut is built into the stock ECU mate.. its @ .9 of a bar of boost but the EML will come on shortly after .8 to tell you your getting close to fuel cut... the only way to get around fuel cut is to get different management or upgrade the fueling of the engine with a FPR and FCD
ahmedsalem89
Member +
yeah that's what happened to me the check engine light came on then it started cutting steady, anyway man thanks for the great info. one last thing, would it hurt the engine if I continue like this hitting fuel cut every once in a while?