Aluminium Radiators

pig666eon

Member +
yeah i woulnt be selling them anyway

they are denso 26mm full aluminium rads direct replacement

if they can be got cheaper let me know i might be interested
 

Johnny_C

Lifer
yeah i woulnt be selling them anyway

they are denso 26mm full aluminium rads direct replacement

if they can be got cheaper let me know i might be interested

not a bad price for denso!
golpher 26mm,but they do 40mm at a larger cost.est around 200 euros delivered for a 26mm,but trying to push for a better deal depending on numbers,possible to get them down to 170 with a list of 5 maybe,depending on customs duty(im having a bad run with customs latley,bastards,lol)
 

pig666eon

Member +
yeah i have had to stop using fedex as everything thing i have been getting in had massive customs on it not one thing i got from them was free of it i dont know what they were at, not one issue from dhl

sure see what they can do anyway you are really just paying for the name anyway with the denso, keep me updated anyway lad for prices on both 26-40mm cheers
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
not really,

the optimum is 72 degrees c, but this is no good for a road car, as it keeps the oil to cold,

so the compromise is 82 degrees c

95 degrees c is the maximum temperatures you should be seeing

That's what says in my book - Starlet Manual translated from Japanese - It's not the coolant temperature - it's the actual engine temperature! In fact on Honda engines the thermostat is over 90C....
Either way too cold is too bad and I agree with you on that one!
 

weeJohn

Lifer
I use an ASI alluminium rad, no problems with cooling on the track with it and with a good stat no problems keeping heat in either. It is a Civic rad but they will make up a Starlet one on request. No idea of a price but maybe a group buy would keep it low.
 

Rev

Member +
Starlet Manual translated from Japanese - It's not the coolant temperature - it's the actual engine temperature!

I can see 95degC with stock engine gives a little more torque with more temp. and stock injectors spray pattern cooling the valves plus higher ron fuel in Japan fuel can cope with the slightly higher temperature. I read fuels have a design temp to atomise and for proper ingition I think it is usually 90deg C. Also the stock ecu can over fuel if the temp drops too low. ( below 45 deg C I have heard [ 50C should be halfway on the gauge] )

The trick is to maintain the correct temp especially when running much higher boost.
 
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dark_knight

Member +
@Rev: sounds like sound advice. will work on getting my thermo back in and working normally so that i can attain the proper engine temps.. :)
 

Rev

Member +
Proper Engine temp. Also important to remove the water which is a by product of combustion and the engine getting warm is designed to burn off that condensation.

In hot oz climate I notice my full size Aluminium radiator throws alot of heat back on the turbo intake so I am going have to shield this. Maybe thats ok in colder climate.

Thinking of hotter climates I have also read that a raising fuel pressure can add heat to the the fuel charge and too large a fuel pump will circulate more fuel back to the fuel tank and this will heat up the tank fuel over time.
 
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dark_knight

Member +
@Rev: a larger fuel pump circulating more fuel back to the tank - as it isn't spent - and thus warming it over time makes sense but isn't this taken care of (to some degree at least) by the tank's venting system.. allowing it to decompress over the same period of time and not build up too much heat..? just curious..
 

Rev

Member +
@Rev: a larger fuel pump circulating more fuel back to the tank - as it isn't spent - and thus warming it over time makes sense but isn't this taken care of (to some degree at least) by the tank's venting system.. allowing it to decompress over the same period of time and not build up too much heat..? just curious..

I am no expert I was researching detonation and fuel temp . when I saw the comment.
As I understand it , a upgraded fuel pump can be associated with raising fuel pressure which results in some setups having more fuel returning to the tank than before.
These cars are running high temp and boost so the increased fuel volume cycling back to the fuel tank has picked up considerable engine heat in its travel which accumulates in the tank fuel. Yes some heat will vent but the vents are designed for pressure relief of tank air which is small volume and low density compared to the heat contained by the liquid fuel.
 

dark_knight

Member +
i hear you. maybe we should get a member here good in design & engineering to build us prototype fuel tanks with heat-sink fins on them.. :D lol
 
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