Cooling - What do we really need?

[Gee]

Hi all,

A few things on cooling.

1.3bar rad cap - I believe raises the temp that the water/coolant starts to boil which is obviously a good thing, however I have read that a few people have had certain problems when using these cap's. I cant remember what now, can anyone elaborate?

Low temp thermostat - If the standard thermo opens at 76.5 degree's isnt this for a reason? Is there not an ideal running temperature for the 4EFTE? Therefore is it a good idea to run thermostat's that open at 68 degree's such as the SARD thermo?

It was mentioned on another forum that if the water does not reach a certain temp, it can cause piston slap?

And here is a random question...why does my water cool better then on a downhill incline than straight road, up hill etc?

Thanks!

 

[riko666]

downhill/straight road then the engine is not under load

 

[TurboDave]

More pressure in the cooling system puts more strain on coolant hoses, clips and the HG.

 

[Gee]

Hmm, well I will be using silicone hoses and a 1.2mm headgasket.

Do we really need these parts of will a SARD rad be enough without uprating the rad cap and thermostat?

 

[thefalls]

Dont mean to hijack ur thread....just curious...since we are on the issue of cooling...why does my temp needle go down when im on a straight road or downhill on a cold night or morning?
thanks.

 

[riko666]

downhill/straight road then the engine is not under load

probably have air in your system so when the engine is under load, i.e. going uphill, it will heat up

 

[Red Hot]

Dont mean to hijack ur thread....just curious...since we are on the issue of cooling...why does my temp needle go down when im on a straight road or downhill on a cold night or morning?
thanks.

Your thermostat is broken...

back on topic.

 

[thefalls]

Your thermostat is broken...

back on topic.

Thanks!

 

[Luke.R]

Dont mean to hijack ur thread....just curious...since we are on the issue of cooling...why does my temp needle go down when im on a straight road or downhill on a cold night or morning?
thanks.

Thats Normal, the thermostat would have opened and the coolent is running through the vains in the radiator, and the colder air is lowering the temp of your coolent as it comes in contact witht the rad.

If the thermostat was "broken" the temp would rise into the red because no coolent is being allowed to flow through the radiator to be cooled.

 

[Gee]

Search on the old site, sure it has been covered.

Lets get back on track

 

[Timmy]

I see no point in a low temp thermo stat as you car will be running to cold.

 

[Gee]

I see no point in a low temp thermo stat as you car will be running to cold.

They seem to be recommended for the summer climate, but is your car is going to over heat it will only delay the temp rise. However, if they stat opens earlier and your cooling system is in good condition, maybe a particular high temp will never be reached, which might of with the standard thermo?

 

[Dave@TM-developments.com]

IMO if you're uprating the engine beyond a certain point a bigger rad will certainly help keeps thing cool. We are running a thicker core normal size rad with our set up

 

[Dane_Bristol]

Well imo talking from owning one the SARD Sports Radiator is the Dogs bollox i am getting constant temps of 78 degrees even on boost it does not raise whatsoever. I have the SARD 1.3 bar Cap and SARD Thermostat.

 

[Gee]

I am definately going for an uprated rad, but I questioning the use of the 1.3bar rad cap and lower temp thermo really.

 

[Dave@TM-developments.com]

Rad cap is quite handy, lo stat I don't think so

 

[goldenvtr]

ive got a 1.3bar rad cap, helped with my leaky headgasket, it finished it off due to higher pressure build up lol

 

[Starlet_Sam]

Thats Normal, the thermostat would have opened and the coolent is running through the vains in the radiator, and the colder air is lowering the temp of your coolent as it comes in contact witht the rad.

If the thermostat was "broken" the temp would rise into the red because no coolent is being allowed to flow through the radiator to be cooled.

Not so if it's stuck open my boy!

 

[GTti]

I was just reading that bonnet raising thread...


You dont need to modify the standard cooling system or thermostat.

All you need is deironized water mixed with a product like water wetter, and as little anti freeze as you can get away with. With that you have much better cooling efficiency as the more pure water you have in your system the better it is at transfering heat.

Can also baffle the areas around the radiator to force air flow through it, ie NOT bonnet raising!

 

[Dave.]

^ the perfect answer really, without going overboard with mods...

i've a sard racing radiator (aluminium), 1.3bar cap, and i think a new thermostat aswell... My car NEVER goes above halfway on the temp guage, which equates to 85 degrees maximum (idle b4 fan kicks in, controlled by hks fan controller) When i'm driving (booting it or not) it sits at a more or less perfectly stable 75 degrees...

i guess it might be overkill for my setup, as the cooling never seems to strain (ever) but on a bigger turbo or more powerful setup, it might be better suited (better too cool than too wam though)

hope this helps in some way :-/