Cooling - What do we really need?

[GTti]

Water temperature should never reach boiling point in a cars cooling system anyway. And you're right, regardless of what you're doing the temperature should remain consistant.

 

[Timmy]

Can also baffle the areas around the radiator to force air flow through it, ie NOT bonnet raising!

How would raising the bonnet counter act this. The air would have already flowed through the rad by this point and now the hot air escaping through the back of the bonnet. Bonnet raising is proven to reduce temps on starlets (not on all cars due to aero dynamics ect.) if i remember correctly someone actualy tested it on the old site.
Also baffleing could cause issues by creating an air dam at the front of your car.

 

[sx_turbo]

i still have my air con and would like to keep it, problem is when in use my water temps get really hot, i have a sard thermostat which only really works well when consistantly moving, but the temp never gets higher than halfway on the guage,

would an uprated rad really help with the air con still in place?

as it would still be blowing hot air into the rad.

also@ gtti- how did you join the site in 2010 lol

 

[sx_turbo]

How would raising the bonnet counter act this. The air would have already flowed through the rad by this point and now the hot air escaping through the back of the bonnet. Bonnet raising is proven to reduce temps on starlets (not on all cars due to aero dynamics ect.) if i remember correctly someone actualy tested it on the old site.
Also baffleing could cause issues by creating an air dam at the front of your car.

also proven on escort and fiesta rst's

 

[riko666]

I'm thinking where the raised bonnet doesn't help is that by isolating air in the engine bay from the outside, you're creating a pressure differential, which pulls the air through the radiator, then escaping underneat the cars or via the wheel wells. Now when you raise the rear of the bonnet, you're letting the pressure differential decrease, which "pulls" the air though the radiator and out the engine bay less effectively...or that's what I guess

 

[GTti]

Someones got some thinking caps on

There is also nothing else in the engine bay that needs cooling which hasn't already got fluid flowing through it. So this is where you start, making it transfer heat away more efficiently where it matters.

 

[scaraveos]

ive got a 1.3bar rad cap, helped with my leaky headgasket, it finished it off due to higher pressure build up lol

this happened to me too, heh... but finished my plastic rad caps too

i installed a koyo aluminum rad with aluminum caps now and will fit 1.2mm metal headgasket. hope everything will be ok now.

 

[Gee]

If it matter, I will be running TD04L at 1.3bar.

I was thinking of SARD rad, TRD thermostat (doesnt open as soon as the SARD) and silicone hosing.

I will be doing the odd trackday here and there. I don't want things to run too hot, but I also dont want to be running too cold!

 

[sx_turbo]

the trd thermostat will make the engine run at optimum, temperature, the standard one is set for reliability over performance.

 

[morpheus]

Dont mean to hijack ur thread....just curious...since we are on the issue of cooling...why does my temp needle go down when im on a straight road or downhill on a cold night or morning?
thanks.

i have the same problem.

 

[asifatyard21]

so wat temperature is advised for the thermo to open at when running td04 with smaller rad?? also seems like not a good idea to get uprated rad cap due to pressure??

 

[weeJohn]

I am going to look into turning the pump slightly faster.

Dont want to run it too fast or it will aerate the coolant and reduce its cooling capabilities.

My thought is that if the coolant passes through faster it will take the heat away faster, but it could make it worse is the only thing!!!

I will let you all know, when I have blew it up lol

 

[TurboDave]

I disagree,

Raising the bonnet at the rear slightly does decrease my running temperature and I dont care what anyone says because it simply does decrease.

Oil temperature is more important than the water temperature.

 

[GTti]

Have a read:


http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/Water_Wetter/water_wetter.htm

But the high system pressure is not used to avoid boiling so much as to allow the engine to operate at a higher temperature for reasons of efficiency. A higher cooling system bulk temperature also allows the use of a smaller radiator (there is a greater driving force to transfer heat from the coolant to the free stream air).

http://images.europeancarweb.com/features/0307_03z+1988_bmw_e30_m3_coupe+engine_bay.jpg

The standard radiator on the 4EFTE is twice the size of the one on the E30 M3 in the picture.

 

[Dave.]

very interesting indeed!...

makes sense when you think about it, nice find.

 

[thefalls]

i have the same problem.

Going to open thermostat soon n then check if its still there!Then let you know.:gt-logo

 

[HYBRID]

Your thermostat is broken...

back on topic.

thats bullshit!

its cause, going downhill on an engine break the engine is turning due to the power of the rotational force of the wheels.. ie there is no strain on the engine, if u look @ a wideband u will also notice that ur in the dead zone as far as af goes.. something between 17af to 20af..

NO this wont harm ur engine duh.. the engine cools faster as its flowing freely, just throwing in enough petrol & spark just to keep it going.. thus everything cools down quicker

kon

 

[Red Hot]

On a pretty standard car, the standard temp. gauge should, on operating temperature, always be almost half way right?

So if his goes down, his thermostat is stuck in the open position...

 

[TurboDave]

On a pretty standard car, the standard temp. gauge should, on operating temperature, always be almost half way right?

So if his goes down, his thermostat is stuck in the open position...

Not necessarily

 

[Gee]

Have a read:


http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/Water_Wetter/water_wetter.htm



http://images.europeancarweb.com/features/0307_03z+1988_bmw_e30_m3_coupe+engine_bay.jpg

The standard radiator on the 4EFTE is twice the size of the one on the E30 M3 in the picture.

Good read.

Whats the E30 rad got to do with anything thou? You pointing out it does a good job of cooling the M block so our twice the size rads should pose no problems?

Does the E30 rad have a few layers and is it full ali? Our rads are not. Also, will a TD04L boosting to 1.3bar potentially generate more heat than the E30 block, as we know that is a down side to turbochargers...