Engine cutting out?

Jay

Jay

Admin
Just on that last point - the fuel pumps don't prime until you crank the engines on these cars.

To test the pump you would link B+ and FP in the diagnostic port then turn the key to the accessory position.
 
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

Member +
Jay said:
Just on that last point - the fuel pumps don't prime until you crank the engines on these cars.

To test the pump you would link B+ and FP in the diagnostic port then turn the key to the accessory position.
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an easy sight to get wrong actually, my car has been made 30+ years more modern, and so the priming system is now the same, up to modern standards, good to know! :)
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT said:
if the fuel pump were damaged the car would not run at all, as even the slightest amount of mis-Flow in the lines will stall the car,

hence the fact most cars have a regulator, keeps pressure up regardless to an extent during power runs or similar, they do not usually fail while stock or slightly power'd up,

still, the easiest way to test this is to ----> SAFELY <---- remove a fuel line somewhere on the filter or nearby and place the end of the fuel line removed in a container, make sure its decently sized, and then put the key in, BUT DO NOT START IT, only put it on the accessory power to prime the pump, a few seconds should be enough to tell. key on, 1 or 2 seconds, key off. again do not start the car.
watch the flow amount, if it seems slow / a small amount comes out, it is likely your fuel filter is dirty and old, replace it if so, very common with starlets

post a photo of the fuel amount int he container here, for a quick answer to if it is clogged or not, also a photo of the fuel filter as well.
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As the car was running perfectly before we remove the cylinder head to send it out for welding, the fuel pump, the pipes and the fuel filter didn’t change. The engine is practically new as now all the gaskets are new, the valve gaskets and the cylinder head is practically new. When the swap has been done we put a new fuel filter, new oil gaskets, new water pump etc.
I just don’t know why the engine has changed after we put the cylinder head back on. The hoses we’re just the intake two sensors that have been put back together. I have pictures from before and after to make sure I don’t make mistakes. I know the outside engine very well as I have been working around it since July. Earlier today I put back on the left hi lo boost sensor with his vacuum custom set. I replaced the fuel regulator and cleaned all the connectors. I opened up the BOV to see how it would go.
The answer is that when revs go around 3000 RPM it starts getting lazy instead of firing up to 7000 RPM. Usually boost would kick in at 2500 and drop around 4500. I checked all the hoses and the intercooler hoses as well. All looks tight and boost gouge doesn’t drop any time after it goes to nominal.
 
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

Member +
Frankieflowers said:
As the car was running perfectly before we remove the cylinder head to send it out for welding, the fuel pump, the pipes and the fuel filter didn’t change. The engine is practically new as now all the gaskets are new, the valve gaskets and the cylinder head is practically new. When the swap has been done we put a new fuel filter, new oil gaskets, new water pump etc.
I just don’t know why the engine has changed after we put the cylinder head back on. The hoses we’re just the intake two sensors that have been put back together. I have pictures from before and after to make sure I don’t make mistakes. I know the outside engine very well as I have been working around it since July. Earlier today I put back on the left hi lo boost sensor with his vacuum custom set. I replaced the fuel regulator and cleaned all the connectors. I opened up the BOV to see how it would go.
The answer is that when revs go around 3000 RPM it starts getting lazy instead of firing up to 7000 RPM. Usually boost would kick in at 2500 and drop around 4500. I checked all the hoses and the intercooler hoses as well. All looks tight and boost gouge doesn’t drop any time after it goes to nominal.
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well its not a boost related issue, so long as boost stays normal the entire time on the gauge, your issue lies elsewhere,
if not, then a dead Turbo can cause issues,

assuming either of these are correct
if it were my car, i would check for play on the turbine intake wheel, and then
, i would disconnect the dump pipe bottom section from the exhaust, your catalytic converter ( if it has an alternate aftermarket one ) could be clogged. if it is factory, i am unsure. potentially the same issue.



something is stopping your car from doing 1 of 3 things, spark, Air or fuel. with another being exhaust extraction funtions, and also the possibility of timing being very wrong.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT said:
well its not a boost related issue, so long as boost stays normal the entire time on the gauge, your issue lies elsewhere,
if not, then a dead Turbo can cause issues,

assuming either of these are correct
if it were my car, i would check for play on the turbine intake wheel, and then
, i would disconnect the dump pipe bottom section from the exhaust, your catalytic converter ( if it has an alternate aftermarket one ) could be clogged. if it is factory, i am unsure. potentially the same issue.



something is stopping your car from doing 1 of 3 things, spark, Air or fuel. with another being exhaust extraction funtions, and also the possibility of timing being very wrong.
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I very much agree with you. Changing gear from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4rth it explodes (bangs). It has never done that. Mechanical timing was ok when we closed the engine. On the cam and on the crankshaft. Electric timing was at 0 before. We put it (on diagnostics mode) to 10. It was revving great up high but tired around 1500/2000. So we put it back as it was before to figure out what was different. Maybe the flywheel moved? The cams were put back right as there was a mark that we used. Timing is ok as we use a timing gun. What could have happened? The noises from the turbo at first ignition were mad but it happened a minute at idle. Oil had to get back in place. It’s the procedure. Now there is a constant baloon funny noise that wasen’t there before. We checked the turbine play and it was ok. What happened?
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
If the turbo hasn't been primed prior to starting it could potentially have run dry and damaged the bearings.

This would usually result in excessive play in the impellor shaft, the edges of the impellor blades catching the housings, oil seepage from the damaged seals or outright collapsed turbo. You aren't seeing any of this so its hard to say its the issue unfortunately.

You checked both intake and exhaust sides of the turbo?
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Jay said:
If the turbo hasn't been primed prior to starting it could potentially have run dry and damaged the bearings.

This would usually result in excessive play in the impellor shaft, the edges of the impellor blades catching the housings, oil seepage from the damaged seals or outright collapsed turbo. You aren't seeing any of this so its hard to say its the issue unfortunately.

You checked both intake and exhaust sides of the turbo?
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I only checked the intake side of the turbo. How could it be damaged on the down-pipe side?
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Today I checked all the vacuum hoses. I cleaned the filter to the map sensor. I replaced the fuel rail pressure component. I checked everything. The fly wheel was tightened properly and it was in position to the hall so was the crankshaft to zero. The engine runs perfectly on idle. No noise whatsoever. Gaskets are new. Valve gaskets are new. We just reconnected the few things on the Internet and all the connectors. The turbo was perfectly fine before and it was just sitting there until we put it back on. New bolts for the turbo and the exhaust manifold. We just did everything to make it better and now it feels like it doesn’t want to live anymore. I am so frustrated. There is no way I can find Genuine CT9 turbo on the more. I could bring it to the shop to refurbish it but it would cost €500. The camshaft had a mark so it was impossible to make a mistake. Tomorrow I will open the timing belt covers to check positions. I will get my partner to takeoff the Downpip to check turbo on the hot side. What else can I do? I need to run diagnostics with a TOYOOB1 but it is impossible to find it. That would help to understand air and fuel conditions.
 
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

Member +
Frankieflowers said:
Today I checked all the vacuum hoses. I cleaned the filter to the map sensor. I replaced the fuel rail pressure component. I checked everything. The fly wheel was tightened properly and it was in position to the hall so was the crankshaft to zero. The engine runs perfectly on idle. No noise whatsoever. Gaskets are new. Valve gaskets are new. We just reconnected the few things on the Internet and all the connectors. The turbo was perfectly fine before and it was just sitting there until we put it back on. New bolts for the turbo and the exhaust manifold. We just did everything to make it better and now it feels like it doesn’t want to live anymore. I am so frustrated. There is no way I can find Genuine CT9 turbo on the more. I could bring it to the shop to refurbish it but it would cost €500. The camshaft had a mark so it was impossible to make a mistake. Tomorrow I will open the timing belt covers to check positions. I will get my partner to takeoff the Downpip to check turbo on the hot side. What else can I do? I need to run diagnostics with a TOYOOB1 but it is impossible to find it. That would help to understand air and fuel conditions.
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if your car was not primed correctly that turbo is a Goner, as jay said,
Buy an ebay CT9, they do fine. and have yours rebuilt later

it can be damaged either side, the exhaust side is more likely
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
I would still proceed with checking the timing marks, even a tooth out would cause performance issues.

Have seen people get away without priming the turbo before but the way you describe the noise worries me. Fingers crossed for you.

Totally understand the frustration, fault-finding is like punching a block wall at times. Just a case of taking a deep breath and not letting it beat you. Which is easier said than done!
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
Oh and I've never had access to the diagnostic equipment you are looking for. In terms of checking air/fuel ratio I would use a wide band sensor.

Sometimes it helps to work out what's happening the mixture in real-time. I use Innovate but AEM are another favourite in tuning circles.
 
WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

Member +
Jay said:
I would still proceed with checking the timing marks, even a tooth out would cause performance issues.

Have seen people get away without priming the turbo before but the way you describe the noise worries me. Fingers crossed for you.

Totally understand the frustration, fault-finding is like punching a block wall at times. Just a case of taking a deep breath and not letting it beat you. Which is easier said than done!
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timing being off ruins these cars, a photo of the distributor can probably tell jay all he needs to know.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Thank Yu guys When we closed the cylinder head cover the 4E hole was perfectly aligned and the crank was in zero position as it should be. This is a hunter percent. Using the timing gun everything runs perfectly so apparently the issue is elsewhere. About the turbo, we touched the turbine and it’s really smooth with no play. I started to think that maybe evolve retouch the process to change the gaskets and the rectification of the head basement might have change something. Usually the compression rate goes in little bit higher but it shouldn’t change much. Saturday morning I will go to the tuner and he will check the cylinder compression to see if the valves are leaking. I will check the map sensor voltage today. I am worried that the little filter on the hose might be feeling. I don’t know where to find one and if there is a different one on the market that might fit.
regarding the wideband. I am not an expert of that field. What exactly should I do? Thank you.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Is there a procedure to register the cam shafts after The rectification of the valves? I did what the Toyota manual says.
I mean is there a procedure to regulate the valves after removing them and putting them back? I think that the problem is here that the shop didn’t set them in the Toyota parameters because they didn’t have the camshafts. My mechanic should have done that but he didn’t. I hope that I didn’t damage much or bend any valve. Crazy!
 
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WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

WhiteOverGoldMK1GT

Member +
Frankieflowers said:
Thank Yu guys When we closed the cylinder head cover the 4E hole was perfectly aligned and the crank was in zero position as it should be. This is a hunter percent. Using the timing gun everything runs perfectly so apparently the issue is elsewhere. About the turbo, we touched the turbine and it’s really smooth with no play. I started to think that maybe evolve retouch the process to change the gaskets and the rectification of the head basement might have change something. Usually the compression rate goes in little bit higher but it shouldn’t change much. Saturday morning I will go to the tuner and he will check the cylinder compression to see if the valves are leaking. I will check the map sensor voltage today. I am worried that the little filter on the hose might be feeling. I don’t know where to find one and if there is a different one on the market that might fit.
regarding the wideband. I am not an expert of that field. What exactly should I do? Thank you.
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compression ratio wont change much, it will either run like shit all the time, or none of the time.


the map sensor filters are somewhat of a placebo. depends where you live. how cold it gets. all based on condensation.
remove it, and put the line as it was with a connector. OR get a new one.

Any Wideband capable 02 gauge can do the job,
here is an example.
https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/wideband-o2-air-fuel-uego-gauge-kit.html
 
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