Engine cutting out?

Jay

Admin
Thank Yu guys When we closed the cylinder head cover the 4E hole was perfectly aligned and the crank was in zero position as it should be. This is a hunter percent. Using the timing gun everything runs perfectly so apparently the issue is elsewhere. About the turbo, we touched the turbine and it’s really smooth with no play. I started to think that maybe evolve retouch the process to change the gaskets and the rectification of the head basement might have change something. Usually the compression rate goes in little bit higher but it shouldn’t change much. Saturday morning I will go to the tuner and he will check the cylinder compression to see if the valves are leaking. I will check the map sensor voltage today. I am worried that the little filter on the hose might be feeling. I don’t know where to find one and if there is a different one on the market that might fit.
regarding the wideband. I am not an expert of that field. What exactly should I do? Thank you.

Was worth checking the timing marks even if you didn't find anything. Gets them off the list of possibilities.

Compression will increase slightly if the head has been skimmed. Even if this is the case it would make the engine more responsive. Doubt this is your issue tbh. I've turbocharged 4EFE's and they are well out of spec.

After the valves are refitted it's recommended to check the valve clearances. You will need the cam cover off and a set of feeler gauges. The valves aren't adjusted, the thickness of the valve buckets are instead. If the clearances are out of spec you might need different shims. Worry about that if it happens. Process will be in the manual, I think @JamesG_GlanzaV has an english version that I don't have. If one valve was sticking open you would be getting a misfire though.

The MAP sensor filter basically contains a fine mesh to catch oil vapour or gunge. A blast of carb cleaner should clear any blockages but you could remove it completely to see if that helps for testing.

A tuner should have access to a wideband so let him see if he can figure that side of things out.
 

SKINY

Lifer
Is the head torqued correctly bud and was it done in the proper order ? There is also an order for lossening the head bolts too.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
So guys I’m looking for the manufacture information for the gap between the camshaft and the cups. Basically they smooth out the valve area that made en 1/10 mm shorter so I have to measure them and go to the ratification shop to get dinner cup plates. Do you have the manual in English? I have it in Japanese
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
After the valves are refitted it's recommended to check the valve clearances. You will need the cam cover off and a set of feeler gauges. The valves aren't adjusted, the thickness of the valve buckets are instead. If the clearances are out of spec you might need different shims. Worry about that if it happens. Process will be in the manual, I think @JamesG_GlanzaV has an english version that I don't have. If one valve was sticking open you would be getting a misfire though.
Here’s what I wanna do tomorrow. I have to measure the gap between the camshafts and the valve cups right? Can you tell me more tocmake sure I do it right? The rectification went up a 1/10 mm so i need cup plates that.would be tginner. I disn’t find the specs in the Japanese manual. Please help me through this process.
 

Jay

Admin
I couldn't even explain it properly with you in the workshop next to me lol..

When you took the cams out did you take the buckets and shims out?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I couldn't even explain it properly with you in the workshop next to me lol..

When you took the cams out did you take the buckets and shims out?
Yes we did. The shop named them one by one to save correct position. They rectifies two 2/10 mm on the head surface and 1/10 mm in the valve ring. They did not check the valve clearance because I didn’t bring the camshafts. Problem is now that I can check only for clearance with my father‘s instrument. I cannot compensate the gap or reduce the thickness of the shims. An old mechanic told me that there is a kit that Toyota should have with all the shims with different thickness. What is the easiest way to fix this? I cannot bring the cylinder head back to the shop. Hi first want to check for valve clearance parameters and eventually fix it

I found this page from the manual but God I am not a mechanic to be sure enough to do it well. 4BDC744E-324D-424D-9EE3-9BC9595A884E.png
 

Jay

Admin
First clarify if the valve clearances are out of specification. No point worrying about parts availability and all that if they aren't the issue.

Cam cover off and use the feeler gauges to do this. Just follow the INSPECT part of that manual. I would suggest you note them all down for reference.
 

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Frankieflowers

Member +
First clarify if the valve clearances are out of specification. No point worrying about parts availability and all that if they aren't the issue.

Cam cover off and use the feeler gauges to do this. Just follow the INSPECT part of that manual. I would suggest you note them all down for reference.
Update.

here are the valve clearance measures we took with the engine that was almost called. Let’s say 25°C.
E2AE6696-AF90-4921-8023-245CD3E4C05A.jpeg2D70ABA8-0050-43DE-9175-6FCE73258F59.jpeg

before we did this I went to see the workshop that will change my echo and map the engine whenever it will be working fine and he ran a compression test when the engine was fairly warm The result was 140, 140, 150, 150 when I bought the engine from England, the seller sent me a video of the compression test that was 175, 170, 160, 165. As the engine temperature matters when it comes to compression test, I cannot be 100% sure of what has been done by the seller and I can only be certain of what I am doing this is sad, checking the valve clearance we have the certainty that the shims are thin enough to let the valves seal. If decompression is down is probably because the rectification work shop did the job wrong and the valves don’t seal properly anymore this is a consideration that my brother gave me and I agree. He also said that maybe the valves will adapt and the compression rate will raise again but who can be sure about that at first I thought that checking the valve clearance would give me a larger value beyond the limit that would mean that the valves don’t seal properly and a shim rectification would have been done it seems that my hopes or a let down.

The question to all. If the formula underneath is correct then how come the engine should have a compression rate psi between 160 and 170? Technically the result is wrong because with an 8.2 compression rate for the 4EFTE engine we are talking about 120 psi can someone explain this? Thank you


8.2 x 14.696 / 1 = 120 PSI



9.6 x 14.696 / 1 0 = 140 PSI
 
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Frankieflowers

Member +
First clarify if the valve clearances are out of specification. No point worrying about parts availability and all that if they aren't the issue.

Cam cover off and use the feeler gauges to do this. Just follow the INSPECT part of that manual. I would suggest you note them all down for reference.
Can you pleaae send me a better picture? I can’t read it.
 

Jay

Admin
The measurements off my engine aren't going to suit yours?

Looks like you have excessive clearances on the exhaust cam. A slightly thicker shim will get each figure back into spec. It's just a case of measuring what thickness each shim is and then working out how many of what thickness you need.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
The measurements off my engine aren't going to suit yours?

Looks like you have excessive clearances on the exhaust cam. A slightly thicker shim will get each figure back into spec. It's just a case of measuring what thickness each shim is and then working out how many of what thickness you need.
Exactly. Here are the measurements. I have to get back into the 30 +-3 exhaust clearance specs.

N = T + A - 30 decimeters
If I have 0.40. Valve clearance ilI have to do 40-30 + shim measurement - 1 decimeter (rectification).

is this correct?

71784BF5-C9AD-4D59-86EA-39410D7D0A3B.jpeg
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
New shim thickness measured in millimeters





I1 0,20 - 0,15 + 2,96 - 0,1 = 3



I2 0,20 - 0,15 + 2,99 - 0,1 = 2,94



I3 0,20 - 0,15 + 2,99 - 0,1 = 2,94



I4 0,20 - 0,20 + 2,11 - 0,1 = 3,01



I5 0,20 - 0,20 + 2,91 - 0,1 = 2,81



I6 0,20 - 0,20 + 3 - 0,1 = 2,9



I7 0,20 - 0,20 + 3,11 - 0,1 = 3,01



I8 0,20 - 0,20 + 2,77 - 0,1 = 2,67







E1 0,30 - 0,35 + 3,10 - 0,1 = 2,95



E2 0,30 - 0,35 + 2,94 - 0,1 = 2,79



E3 0,30 - 0,40 + 3,05 - 0,1 = 2,85



E4 0,30 - 0,40 + 2,94 - 0,1 = 2,74



E5 0,30 - 0,35 + 2,96 - 0,1 = 2,81



E6 0,30 - 0,35 + 2,99 - 0,1 = 2,84



E7 0,30 - 0,35 + 2,98 - 0,1 = 2,83



E8 0,30 - 0,30 + 2,92 - 0,1 = 2,82
 
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Jay

Admin
I struggle with this at the best of times, not good with numbers.

Unfortunately I don't quite follow what you have typed tbh.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I struggle with this at the best of times, not good with numbers.

Unfortunately I don't quite follow what you have typed tbh.
I1 Toyota clearance parameters 0,20 (+-3) - Clearance measure A 0,15 + T thickness of removed shim 2,96 - Rectification loss 0,1 = N new shim measure 3 mm
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
But I1 is in specification, there's no need to change the shim?
My clearance measure was 0.15. The minimum is 0.17. Technically it’s out of specification. We changed those in the exhaust side that were measured 0.40. Specification measure is maximum 0.33. Correct?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I'm going off this measurement?

View attachment 7879
My bad. Those were the first measurements but the engine was around 25°C. It wasn’t completely cold. We took the measurements again in the morning and the definite of measures are on those calculations I posted after this paper. 6F631842-85AE-4D7A-B4BA-DC25D01AB56D.jpeg
if you see the number is below they are the morning measurements that high reported on the last measurements for a calculation. After that I went to the workshop and the owner took the measurement shim thickness again and replaced 10 shims.
 
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