Freshly built engine, no oil to the turbo.
- Thread starter Evo
- Start date
dantheman
Member +
pull the plugs out and check them for oil/water. make sure all sensors are plugged in and also check you havent got the water/vac pipes to the underside of the throttle bodie the wrong way around as its easily done. (you will be getting water sucked into the intake which would give the symptoms you describe)
Ok i'll double check all that. The plugs are dry as i've just done a compression test (165 on every cylinder) they were quite sootty so it's probably running rich at the mo.
Pretty sure i've got all the pipes in the right place because i copied my mates starlet when i put it back together (had it jacked up next to mine).
Any other ideas if everything is in the right place?
Pretty sure i've got all the pipes in the right place because i copied my mates starlet when i put it back together (had it jacked up next to mine).
Any other ideas if everything is in the right place?
Ok i did diagnostics and it came up with fault 14 so i cleaned the coil pack and that has now gone away but the car is still sounding very rough below 2000rpm and stalling if i take my foot off the accelerator.
I did run it up and down the road to see if it will idle once it's had a bit of load put through it and it seemed to want to a bit more but ultimately still cut out.
There's still a lot of pressure in the coolant hoses which are leaking slightly due to this pressure, bit of a worry.
Any suggestions?
I did run it up and down the road to see if it will idle once it's had a bit of load put through it and it seemed to want to a bit more but ultimately still cut out.
There's still a lot of pressure in the coolant hoses which are leaking slightly due to this pressure, bit of a worry.
Any suggestions?
Well your compression is obviously ok.
would the diagnostic show up a fualty sensor? if the engine sensors are going straight to the ecu (being a stand alone) then i guess not ?
are those cams pretty wild on the car? (i have no experience on these cars!)
you will get lumpyness with cams, if the cam setup and timing is diffrent and the ecu has changed since the cam setup was done then i think it may just need a remap.
It would be best to check the sensors first though as to not 'hide' the problem with a re-map if it is a sensor at fault.
would the diagnostic show up a fualty sensor? if the engine sensors are going straight to the ecu (being a stand alone) then i guess not ?
are those cams pretty wild on the car? (i have no experience on these cars!)
you will get lumpyness with cams, if the cam setup and timing is diffrent and the ecu has changed since the cam setup was done then i think it may just need a remap.
It would be best to check the sensors first though as to not 'hide' the problem with a re-map if it is a sensor at fault.
Yea i did diagnostics earlier and there aren't any faults now i've cleaned the coil pack.
The cams are fairly wild but other people have put the same set in and run it up fine.
I think all the sensors are fine, everything's been triple checked.
I am starting to think it's a map problem because i also checked the timing today which was spot on and adjusted the idle screw on top of the throttle body but it still stalls.
I'm gunna take the thermostat out and see if it changes anything and then maybe change the sparks and injectors and clean out the idle control valve. If none of that works i'm thinking it must be the map.
The cams are fairly wild but other people have put the same set in and run it up fine.
I think all the sensors are fine, everything's been triple checked.
I am starting to think it's a map problem because i also checked the timing today which was spot on and adjusted the idle screw on top of the throttle body but it still stalls.
I'm gunna take the thermostat out and see if it changes anything and then maybe change the sparks and injectors and clean out the idle control valve. If none of that works i'm thinking it must be the map.
The map on a JAM is none adjustable, and cannot be altered externally.
All the stand alone up rated JDM ecu's are the standard unit, with an extra board in there, to provide a more aggressive fuelling and timing advance curve.
With 265's this thing should idle fine.
Are you checking the timing with the wire across in the diag. plug?
Plugs wouldn't cause it to stall under 2k, if they were at fault severe enough to do that, then it wouldn't perform at all throughout the rev range.
A faulty injector wouldn't either, as it would misfire, not just drop out.
IDCV would be a good start, as when it ceases working, if I remember rightly with mine, it didn't throw a code up...
Hope this helps
All the stand alone up rated JDM ecu's are the standard unit, with an extra board in there, to provide a more aggressive fuelling and timing advance curve.
With 265's this thing should idle fine.
Are you checking the timing with the wire across in the diag. plug?
Plugs wouldn't cause it to stall under 2k, if they were at fault severe enough to do that, then it wouldn't perform at all throughout the rev range.
A faulty injector wouldn't either, as it would misfire, not just drop out.
IDCV would be a good start, as when it ceases working, if I remember rightly with mine, it didn't throw a code up...
Hope this helps
OK so i'm still having trouble with the engine. It's running like a bag of shit.
We've checked every sensor and hose and valve etc and all is fine.
We're thinking there's something wrong with the timing.
Now, when at TDC the 4e mark on the cam pulley is lined up with the mark on the head, the notch on the inner crank pulley is lined up with the mark on the block and the notch on the outer crank pulley is lined up with 0 on the cam belt cover. HOWEVER the marks on the cam gears inside the head are not lining up with each other. The inlet cam looks like it's in the right position but the exhaust cam is three teeth below this position. I am using the speedvision billet 265 degree cams and a tuning developments vernier adjustable cam pulley.
Any ideas because i'm stumped atm???
Thanks
Christian
We've checked every sensor and hose and valve etc and all is fine.
We're thinking there's something wrong with the timing.
Now, when at TDC the 4e mark on the cam pulley is lined up with the mark on the head, the notch on the inner crank pulley is lined up with the mark on the block and the notch on the outer crank pulley is lined up with 0 on the cam belt cover. HOWEVER the marks on the cam gears inside the head are not lining up with each other. The inlet cam looks like it's in the right position but the exhaust cam is three teeth below this position. I am using the speedvision billet 265 degree cams and a tuning developments vernier adjustable cam pulley.
Any ideas because i'm stumped atm???
Thanks
Christian
HYBRID
Super Moderator <a href="http://www.toyotagtturbo.
what duration/lift are the cams? when u have uprated cams it will prefare to stay with a higher idle due to the longer rotation.. but usually around 1500rpms would be ideal so as to not damage the cam due to slow rotation.. also uprated cams like a richer idle than normal, dont aim for 14.7af, aim for 13.4af
hope this helps
kon
hope this helps
kon
corofin12345
Member +
just referring 2 your coolent pressure.. did you check you thermostat?