Help! Crank Seal Leak
- Thread starter Olexandr
- Start date
thanks, will look into this after mot next week.
hopefully wont mess it up myself, got quoted nearly a grand for front and and rear crankshaft seal. There is oil under the car but does not seem to drip, or i not seen it yet. Top ups needed very rarely , like very 2 - 3 months. But there could be mess behind plastic cover where timing belt, on the left side of roker. Need to remove some pipe to open that plastic cover fully and have a look. guys at the garage could be right tho i do not see evidence of rear seal leak...
dunno where to start, but front supposed to be easier ?
hopefully wont mess it up myself, got quoted nearly a grand for front and and rear crankshaft seal. There is oil under the car but does not seem to drip, or i not seen it yet. Top ups needed very rarely , like very 2 - 3 months. But there could be mess behind plastic cover where timing belt, on the left side of roker. Need to remove some pipe to open that plastic cover fully and have a look. guys at the garage could be right tho i do not see evidence of rear seal leak...
dunno where to start, but front supposed to be easier ?
Last edited:
How I remove the seals: I drill two small holes in the seal surface and then screw self tapping screws into the holes and then I pull on the screw heads with pliers etc 
Make sure of the cam belt marks and then strip it
The cam belt sprocket might be stuck due to age, rust etc.
Make sure of the cam belt marks and then strip it
The cam belt sprocket might be stuck due to age, rust etc.
weeJohn
Lifer
Hardest part is getting the bolt loose, there is a method with a prybar and the starter that works well but you need to try to loosen this off first. A small set of pullers will be helpful with the pulley as well, they can get pretty tight on the shaft after a while.
thanx, i expect that would be the case with the bolts. Car did 200 miles in last 4 years. I rounded all caliper bolts trying to sort my breaks for MOT.
not sure if i should wait for leak to get worse cos at the moment i top up oil once every 3 months as normal. But i can see little oil at the bottom of the engine. But there is no oil on my garage floor. ill post some pics maybe when i lift it up at the weekend. car is almost 20 years but runs like a dream !!
not sure if i should wait for leak to get worse cos at the moment i top up oil once every 3 months as normal. But i can see little oil at the bottom of the engine. But there is no oil on my garage floor. ill post some pics maybe when i lift it up at the weekend.
car is almost 20 years but runs like a dream !!more pics
Looked under cam cover and under the car, took pictures and have few questions to keep me right!
1. Possibly 3 oil leaks. - Sump, under cam cover next to cam & Rear Crank, Pictures are below with markings. Can some one confirm above ???
Sump
Seal next to Cam ??? CAn someone advise what that is exactly ??
And Here is same picture but does someone know what is that pipe for? I had a lot of trouble putting cam cover back on because it is very tricky to fit that back on. That little tube goes from Air intake Pipe to the underside of the engine somewhere ??
another pic from the bottom
Finally the rear crank seal ? if i am not mistaken here , ( Is there a bloody Screw missing )!!!!!!!
Thats about it, I still have not topped up oil, it has moved from 3/4 to 1/2 mark in the last month so do not think its urgent, All your help is much appreciate thank you.
PS Whats the think that is directly infront of the radiator. I started looking at it when decided to go for air filter relocation Kit, I know i probobly should start a new thread for that one.
And whats is that below - It is directly under the oil filter , below power steering
Thanks for reading and help !
Looked under cam cover and under the car, took pictures and have few questions to keep me right!
1. Possibly 3 oil leaks. - Sump, under cam cover next to cam & Rear Crank, Pictures are below with markings. Can some one confirm above ???
Sump
Seal next to Cam ??? CAn someone advise what that is exactly ??
And Here is same picture but does someone know what is that pipe for? I had a lot of trouble putting cam cover back on because it is very tricky to fit that back on. That little tube goes from Air intake Pipe to the underside of the engine somewhere ??
another pic from the bottom
Finally the rear crank seal ? if i am not mistaken here , ( Is there a bloody Screw missing )!!!!!!!
Thats about it, I still have not topped up oil, it has moved from 3/4 to 1/2 mark in the last month so do not think its urgent, All your help is much appreciate thank you.
PS Whats the think that is directly infront of the radiator. I started looking at it when decided to go for air filter relocation Kit, I know i probobly should start a new thread for that one.
And whats is that below - It is directly under the oil filter , below power steering
Thanks for reading and help !
Jay
Admin
It certainly looks like you have leaks at the inlet cam seal and the rear crank seal.
I'm on a tablet so can't really make the pics out properly.
Yes theres a bolt missing from the splash plate on the gearbox.
the air con compressor is under the power steering pump and the aircon condenser is in the way of your proposed air filter piping.
Jay
I'm on a tablet so can't really make the pics out properly.
Yes theres a bolt missing from the splash plate on the gearbox.
the air con compressor is under the power steering pump and the aircon condenser is in the way of your proposed air filter piping.
Jay
Olex
Thanks Jay,
inlet cam looks straight forward, would this be a suitable inlet cam Seal ?
http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2375
Would I be able to do a crank seal while the car on axels or is it more of a garage job ?
I read in the forums that sump is straight forward at least.
Looking for some help if i was to do this myself.
Thanks
O.
Thanks Jay,
inlet cam looks straight forward, would this be a suitable inlet cam Seal ?
http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2375
Would I be able to do a crank seal while the car on axels or is it more of a garage job ?
I read in the forums that sump is straight forward at least.
Looking for some help if i was to do this myself.
Thanks
O.
Jay
Admin
There's not really too much to go wrong with that cam seal tbh, you should find that if you remove it, clean up and then apply a blob of instant gasket to the outside face it'll seal just find mate. I'll take a pic of what I mean tomorrow.
The gearbox has to come off with the clutch and flywheel to access the rear crank seal so it might be a bit challenging for the unprepared.
The gearbox has to come off with the clutch and flywheel to access the rear crank seal so it might be a bit challenging for the unprepared.
RE: Olexandr
thanks again Jay, glad to hear! Ill get that seal and inst. gasket bought.
I am a little unprepared but very keen to get my Glanza in perfect order
If I get some guidance would be more than happy to try it in my garage.
Jay, i have been looking through some older post back from 2009 regarding Workshop Manual ? Did nothing ever come out of that thread in the end ?
Cheers
O.
thanks again Jay, glad to hear! Ill get that seal and inst. gasket bought.
I am a little unprepared but very keen to get my Glanza in perfect order
If I get some guidance would be more than happy to try it in my garage.
Jay, i have been looking through some older post back from 2009 regarding Workshop Manual ? Did nothing ever come out of that thread in the end ?
Cheers
O.
Jay
Admin
My memory is a bit faded but I think they may have got one made up. You can find the 5EFE PDF online which is a close match though.
Here's a guide to removing the gearbox:
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums...ch-Tutorial-How-to-Remove-Gear-Box-and-Clutch
The seal is behind the flywheel so it's a case of undoing the six 14mm bolts that hold it on to access the seal. Carefully pry it out and slide the new one in after greasing it up will some oil. This must be done slowly and carefully so as it goes in flat and equally on all sides otherwise you might get a leak. Also worth plastering the bugger in sealer just to reduce the chances of leaks. The flywheel bolts should be renewed (available from Toyota) and torqued up to 90nm in sequence when refitting the flywheel.
Here's a guide to removing the gearbox:
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums...ch-Tutorial-How-to-Remove-Gear-Box-and-Clutch
The seal is behind the flywheel so it's a case of undoing the six 14mm bolts that hold it on to access the seal. Carefully pry it out and slide the new one in after greasing it up will some oil. This must be done slowly and carefully so as it goes in flat and equally on all sides otherwise you might get a leak. Also worth plastering the bugger in sealer just to reduce the chances of leaks. The flywheel bolts should be renewed (available from Toyota) and torqued up to 90nm in sequence when refitting the flywheel.
dac69er
Super Moderator
i would start with any oil leaks that you can see at the top of the engine. once they are sealed, clean all the oil up and see if it re-appears, then search again. sometimes a leak that appears to be coming from the crank seal can be coming from further up and just running down. can save a lot of arse ache.
saying that, the crank seals are pretty common to start leaking so probably worth changing it for piece of mind as if it isn't leaking now as it will do in the future!
saying that, the crank seals are pretty common to start leaking so probably worth changing it for piece of mind as if it isn't leaking now as it will do in the future!
gorganl2000
Lifer
good advice jay and dac69er
yeah maybe good to check under the distributor too...sometimes that drips and runs down on the transmission, which may give the appearance of the rear crank seal leak
that said, it does look as though your rear crank seal is lekaing
yeah maybe good to check under the distributor too...sometimes that drips and runs down on the transmission, which may give the appearance of the rear crank seal leak
that said, it does look as though your rear crank seal is lekaing
RE: Olexandr
Thanks everyone. Those are some awesome instructions on gear box removal. I also have just purchased ep82 workshop manual from jpnz.co.nz, would that be any use to me since they are same engines apart from turbo and other minor differences ??
Is there any other parts that it is advisable to change at the same time when doing crank seal ? for example I know my Timing belt is due to be changed. is it a good idea to swap out clutch ?
So my first seal will be cam inlet then.
Can i confirm that, it is an actual seal below, that thhing looks like a rubber cap to me
Also took better pictures of sump below. I think it is leaking judging by the oil running on the side of it. (however aircon compressor was covered with fresh oil, I think that was my carelessness when changing out an oil filter 6 months ago)
PS , when relocating air filter, what do most starlet owners do with air con condenser that is in the way. I really want to remove big air pipe that is going across the engine, which may involve getting oil air breather thing which i quite like and also is it a good idea to get smaller radiator that is apparently 30 % more efficient from id-workz?
thanks gents
Best Regadrs
Olex
Thanks everyone. Those are some awesome instructions on gear box removal. I also have just purchased ep82 workshop manual from jpnz.co.nz, would that be any use to me since they are same engines apart from turbo and other minor differences ??
Is there any other parts that it is advisable to change at the same time when doing crank seal ? for example I know my Timing belt is due to be changed. is it a good idea to swap out clutch ?
So my first seal will be cam inlet then.
Can i confirm that, it is an actual seal below, that thhing looks like a rubber cap to me
Also took better pictures of sump below. I think it is leaking judging by the oil running on the side of it. (however aircon compressor was covered with fresh oil, I think that was my carelessness when changing out an oil filter 6 months ago)
PS , when relocating air filter, what do most starlet owners do with air con condenser that is in the way. I really want to remove big air pipe that is going across the engine, which may involve getting oil air breather thing which i quite like
and also is it a good idea to get smaller radiator that is apparently 30 % more efficient from id-workz? thanks gents
Best Regadrs
Olex